Christmas in Korea

I don't think I have ever eaten so much in one sitting at any time during my existence on this planet in a single day. If you put the food I consumed on a scale, you would undoubtedly have to buy a new scale after breaking it. Actually I fear the simple act of weighing myself. I wouldn't tip scales, but annihilate them. That's okay though, because today is Christmas. After strategically skipping breakfast, I sauntered downtown for a giant potluck style turkey dinner with fifty other teachers living in Suncheon, where we partook in a messy affair of eating copious amounts of turkey, stuffing, potatoes, lashed with tons of gravy topped with many other regional dishes including; pierogi, garlic bread, smoked salmon stuffed with cream cheese, and even a few vegetables on the side. Of course, that was the second best part. The highlight in my opinion was the rich, succulent desserts that were ripe for the picking after dinner was consumed. In record time I devoured a immodest slice of carrot cake, and a even larger slice of pumpkin pie with a dollop of whip cream. However that wasn't enough to satisfy me, so I inevitably had to load my plate a second time. In this round I just plopped down a couple of heaping scoops of a pudding, gram cracker, crumbly dish that somehow managed to melt in my mouth like fresh snow on a floor from boots in a warm cottage. In the end the final tally was four plates; two lunch, two desserts, and one giant stomach ache in the end.

Currently as I am typing away at ten o'clock on this chilly evening, the pain from all of this eating is beginning to subside. Because of this feeling of relief I am able to take a moment to reflect on the past few days in Suncheon and recall with a sense of pride that I was able to enjoy a Christmas holiday filled with joy, friendship, cheer, a little wine adding some cheer assistance, and an amazingly large feast that was quite favorable to the taste buds. Additionally, something else that I think I experienced for the first time in a long time is that I didn't feel any inclination to buy any presents. This has been the first time, I enjoyed Christmas without buying or receiving a single present! In spite of not receiving a 'Red Ryder BB Gun,' this Christmas was a grand experience.

As a majority of Koreans don't really celebrate Christmas the way we western consumers do, I didn't feel compelled to make a list of all of those creatures that end up on the gift receiving end of my life every December. Instead of gift buying here, I simply burned a few Cd's for folks to give them a taste of my own holiday taste, then I simply donned a Santa Hat and became Jolly for a week. I must say, that I have been having a fabulous time this holiday. This past week at school we have been making Christmas cards, playing games, and rocking out to 'Ultra Lounge Christmas Classics.' Although Christmas is a multi-million dollar economy boosting holiday, I was just as happy giving the consumer life a skip. The only consumption I was happy to partake in was the stomach filling sort.

That's not to say that Koreans don't avoid Christmas. The neon lights here are blinding, the decorations are ubiquitous, the in-store Christmas carols are omnipresent, and Frosty, Rudolph, Santa and his gang of characters are in full force here. It's still a national holiday, which most Christians celebrate. As not all Koreans are Christan, a majority of Koreans don't really celebrate the holiday like most of us do when it comes to gift giving. Therefore there isn't that social pressure of feeling an obligation to buy presents for people.

Unfortunately I have noticed an increase in Christmas buzz this year around The ROK and in light of this it seems that Christmas related things have been much more convenient to find. There was only one or two shops that had Christmas cards last year. However, you can find in numerous shops around downtown where you can not only find cards, but other Christmas accessories like mugs, plates, stuffed animals hats, and other creations. You can even find shops with trees-plastic of course. Therefore I guess it's just a matter of time before the notion of feeling compulsed to buy gifts becomes a way of life here too. As Koreans develop quickly, it will almost certainly be a way of life here too. Regardless, I had a joyful, food centered Christmas with a few friends that was quite memorable. I hope you did too. Merry Christmas!

Up For the Challenge Part 2

There are two words in the English language that have left me befuddled today when it came to noting the difference between the pair. The words are; ubiquitous, and quintessential. I get the gist. I not a genius, but I can use a dictionary. The former meaning being everywhere at the same time, while the later means a perfect example of something. That's fine, but in the context of the main idea of what I wish to expound upon in this anecdote involves a food that is a little bit of both of that pair of wonderfully sounding words. It's ubiquitous because; well it's everywhere that's for sure. It's at the market, at school, on the street, at home-in fact you would be hard up to find a location in which it didn't turn up. That's ubiquitous! Now the thing which I am writing about is also a perfect example of what we eat in Korea-it's very quintessential. It's the same food-stuff that I've nearly consumed twice daily in the last couple of years-give or take a few days. It's the same edible substance that would generate many negative comments in the school cafeteria if your tray didn't have it. It's also the same fare that is not only served up in a plethora of main dishes, but it's also served with EVERY Korean meal as a side dish you partake in. Actually, I can feel it in my stomach at this moment after my evening feed. For those of you who aren't living in Korea, I'll help you. That food is Kimchi. Yes, it's the ubiquitous and the quintessential thing here. I like to call it 'quintiquous!'

Anyway, for those of you who haven't had the grace of good fortune to sample this little delicacy, then I guess a short description is imperative. It's essentially spicy, fermented cabbage. Depending on the region of the country various ingredients are mixed with the leaves and then stored in a large pot for several months. The usual assortment of things that comprise kimchi are: cabbage, salt, red chili pepper, anchovies, and garlic. The Kimchi is then often used to make into a stew and to be served cold on the side with your meal.

That being said; When I came to Korea I should note I was a little intimidated by the exotic redness and distinct peppery, fermented taste. It took me a few sittings to get accustomed to eating it, and even a few more to develop a fondness for it. As of now I eat it every day. My favorite is Kimchi Jigae, which is a spicy soup with Kimchi, Tofu, and Pork. If I am feeling a little daring I'll devour a bowl of 'Chamchi Jigae,' which is the same but with tuna. However, I also enjoy it ala carte! I relish using the kimchi on the side to mix with my rice. That way I am able to curb the spiciness a little and enjoy the somewhat bland rice more. It's a win win!

Historically Kimchi isn't a new development either. I think chronologically it's technically older than Jesus. As far back as 2600 years ago a report was found in a Chinese text of a mysterious thing called 'Ji,' which pre-dated the later translation, which was later called 'Chimchae,' which meant 'soaked vegetables.' Later it linguistically evolved into what is today's Kimchi. Also, Kimchi used to be quite spice less. It wasn't until about 8 hundred years ago when the original method of soaking cabbage with salt water morphed into a method of preparing the spicier ingredients that give Kimchi it's notable flavor. That notable flavor of course is on the tip of every creatures tongue in curious place.

As I was writing last week, I noted that some individuals made themselves famous by eating copious amounts of McDonald's hamburgers and nuggets on a daily basis and then living to tell the tale; albeit barely. Well, for your information, I have been eating more than copious amounts of Kimchi here on a daily basis and I just want to inform you my dear reader that I am not only living, breathing, and quite contentedly typing away right now, I am in fact probably much healthier than those unfortunate souls who felt compelled to partake in their greasy challenge. I think they should consider eating kimchi every day for a while. At least it'll be healthier. That is because Kimchi is laden with vitamins. One serving has almost all of the required vitamin c you need for a day. It also has four or five other essential vitamins and nutrients (including a few from the a-z vitamin list that I don't really understand which vitamin does what.)

So as I mentioned earlier eating kimchi at first might be a bit daunting because of it's spiciness, however one must admit that it's easy to get an acquired penchant for this tasty vegetable. Since it's tasty for most of us-so tasty in fact that we eat it every single day with full compliance and little struggle, and since it's so darn healthy, it's hard to argue that kimchi is a bad thing. Since my blog is about good things in Korea, why not write about it? Also remember that it's ubiquitous, so when someone is taking your photo here, remember to say 'Kimchi!'

Up for the Challenge Part1

Teaching at a public high school in Korea can be a breezy undertaking. Despite the fact that many foreign teachers are blessed with the daunting task of entertaining, and having to elicit English speech from close to a thousand noisy, often uninterested students weekly, it must be noted that we only have to teach twenty hours a week. Yes, in America, we tend to be captivated by the stories of the prodigious ability of Korean students in the classroom. After living here I must attest that most of that is true, however these Koreans are still students. In my case High School students. So it would only be logical to accept that even Korean students like to be boisterous and turn a deaf ear to their patient American teacher from time to time. It can be disconcerting at times. Although in my opinion, the perks one receives as a high school teacher in Korea heavily outweigh the negatives. At least in my case-especially on Fridays. Since I only have two classes on Fridays, I essentially have an entire day to myself.

If you are reading this in your own nation thinking: "well, I could use an extra day to tidy up around here." Or maybe:"I really want to have more time to sit in a coffee shop and read this highly captivating book I was just given by my friend who said it was unputdownable." Then you are not me! As I am already afforded a light day every week, I have the luxury to spend it idly reading, going to the bank, playing a little guitar, sending postcards to long lost overworked friends, searching for movie times, or even writing in this blog. Whereas my situation two years ago in America was quite different. I actually had to WORK for eight hours. These days I am bestowed with a nice opportunity to ease into the weekend.

Yesterday, in fact was Friday and I must say that I took full advantage of my light working duties to partake in one of my favorite activities; reading. Actually, on Thursday a friend loaned me a book that was rumored to be a good read so I snatched it from him and deposited it in my bag for Friday. I had no intentions of making Friday a reading day, but sometimes once I start something, it's difficult for me to finish. Anyway, the book in question was Chuck Klosterman's IV, which is an unedited creation of interviews with famous people. However, my short description is just to give you the basic idea of the book. What's interesting is not really the concept of the book itself, but the nexus of it is the fact that the interviewer is able to speak to such a diverse sweep of preeminent, big cheeses. He had em' all from Plant, to Brittney.

Anyway, one article that I found curious was Mr. Klosterman's brave undertaking of trying to survive for an entire week on mere diet of McDonald's Chicken Nuggets. Surprisingly he lived to write about it. That was back in 1996, and since he did in fact live to tell his brave tale, he was also fortunate to interview later the gentleman who created Super Size Me. Super Size Me of course is the documentary about the guy who only eats McDonald's for 30 days. Unlike Klosterman, he was afforded the luxury of eating french fries and burgers. However, he ate McDonald's for an entire month! That's a lot of burgers, fries and cokes!

So, as I was reading about McDonald's on my relaxing Friday, I suddenly had the urge to take a little field trip away from school. Around one o'clock yesterday, I sauntered outside, jumped on the 77 bus and traveled five minutes to old downtown to the ubiquitous golden arches. I hadn't sampled their greasy, bland, boxy tasting food for a while, so something inside of me made me compelled to partake in a McDonald's binge. I just had a sudden calling. Reading does that to me sometimes. Especially reading about food. For example; if anyone reads Haruki Murakami novels, they know that writer uses spaghetti a lot in his stories. Every time I read Murakami I crave spaghetti, and only spaghetti. So now here I was at McDonald's with a Shanghai Spicy Chicken Sandwich, a spicy chicken burrito thing, fries, and a Coke right in front of me. It was a quiet, but ambitious challenge, and I rose to the challenge and devoured the food in under five minutes. I was hungry.

Anyway, despite many human's distaste of McDonald's, I have to say if you don't partake in these greasy adventures on a rare occasion, then it is you who is missing out. Although, as I was pondering those brave writers and filmmakers who rose to macho challenges of eating one thing for a particular period of time, I naturally had to think of all the brave, unnoticed souls who curiously eat the same thing in Korea every day and never seem to complain. That food of course is Kimchi. Since I was eating McDonald's, I told myself that I hadn't eaten Kimchi yet this day.

The striking thing is that I can't remember a day in Korea, where I didn't eat it. What was even more unsettling is that I had already made plans to eat pizza with some friends for dinner at Mr. Songs Pizza in a Cup, and he didn't serve Kimchi on the side; just pickles. Therefore, I was looking at my first kimchiless day in Korea. Here I was on a quiet Friday, satisfied from a rare fast food fill, about to return to a pleasant read in a coffee shop. That's how Fridays are for me; pleasant. However, it was strange to discover that I wouldn't eat Kimchi for a day. I actually like kimchi. Since I enjoy sampling it, and it is one of most ubiquitous things in Korea, I think I will take a pause for today and write a short tribute to it next time. It's time for lunch, I'm thinking Korean food today.

A Bigger Fish

For those who haven't been acquainted with me socially as a foreigner living in Suncehon would be quite taken aback by some of the nicknames that are thrown at me by basic default. At least it surprises me. Since I have a bass guitar, which no one else in Suncheon really does, I go by 'Music Dan.' Also I guess not many other people are from the San Francisco Bay Area down in these parts, therefore it seems that I have been labeled by some as 'San Fran Dan,' or just 'San Fran' for short.

The fact that I have never really lived in San Francisco is a detail that is easily overlooked or not seriously regarded as an imperative requirement for my title of resident San Franciscan. I am actually from a small town called Castro Valley, which is about 35 kilometers from downtown San Francisco. Anyway, despite my Californian breeziness, and knowledge of the San Francisco Bay Area, it must be noted that those things did nothing for me in San Francisco. Unfortunately I was just some guy named Dan, who wasn't interesting in San Francisco's eyes. There is nothing wrong with normalcy, but it's just so much more gratifying to come to Korea and to be regarded as diplomat from a place that is so wonderful.

I think it's a good thing too. I enjoy talking about my home and offering advice on places to visit and making recommendations on things to do and see. Because of my interest of making San Francisco seem attractive to Koreans and foreign residents alike, I volunteered for the UNESCO Cross Cultural Awareness Program in Jeollanamdo Province. I think it's quite a rewarding opportunity to go to schools and other venues to give brief but informative presentations about one's homeland. I have been doing this for about a year now, and I have to say that it's been quite an amazing experience.

What's compelling for me is the fact that I am afforded some opportunities to be regarded as someone to be counted on. Maybe that sounds odd, but the fact that I have spent most of my life swimming upstream as a small fish fighting to be a person who does have some experience and some things to share with the world, makes me feel like a slightly bigger fish for a change. For me it has been wonderful to come to Korea and be inaugurated as 'San Fran Dan,' to speak on behalf of such a majestic place. I even get to showcase my musical skills as well, since at the end of the presentation I usually give a short American musical demonstration. So in short I could also be called 'San Fran Music Dan.' However, just Dan will suit me just fine. It's nice to feel important for a change.

I think in life we all want to leave footprints. Speaking on behalf of myself at least, I want to exist in a place where my actions are noticed from time to time, while the results of those actions leave a positive impression with whoever happens to cast a passing glance or attentive ear. The fact that I was graced with the opportunity to act as sort of a cultural diplomat in Korea has been a endearing experience. The fact that it's so convenient for many of us foreign characters living here to partake in these types of programs makes it even more appealing to live here.

Another Rock Turned Up!

I admit that I am not by any means vertically challenged, although it must be dully noted that my height doesn't necessarily exceed that of someone of a more elevated nature. If you tested the height of a dutch male, a penguin, and myself I would undoubtedly measure in at second place slightly ahead of the cuter Arctic waddler. Because of my modest height, I confess that growing up afforded me few advantages when playing sports. Despite my best efforts to play baseball, a little basketball, some tennis, and even a semester of ultimate Frisbee, I'll admit that my height didn't play any advantage in terms of ability. In fact in retrospect, in my less than average stature, my inclination to even involve myself in athletic endeavors seemed to prove a giant miscalculation on my part.

That all changed last May. Despite the fact that I have been an abject failure at most team sports, I never actually really gave soccer a shot. Since I am such a like able fellow, I get on quite well with the players of the local foreigner soccer team in Suncheon. The Suncehon Soccer club, or SIFC; for Sunchoen International Football Club, let me come out to one of their games last May. I played for an entire half, and by the end it was obvious that I was as hopeless as I was at any other sport. During that inaugural match the players on my own team began shouting at me like I was an enemy. According to them I couldn't pass, I couldn't shoot; apparently I couldn't even touch the ball correctly. However, after the game I was by some great fortune invited to come to practices. Eventually I managed to handle myself a bit better. In the end, I have put in a lot of hard work, which I have learned is 90 percent to achieving anything. Although, I actually feel that my limited tallness has given me an advantage that with hard work can make me into a decent player. If you don't believe me, look at Wayne Rooney, or Lionel Messi! Shorter people usually make better soccer players because of their lower center of gravity and are able to control the ball more efficiently.

Because of my hard work I am now starting to slowly feel like a contributor to the team instead of being the teams Achilles heel. Please understand that this is no easy feat to achieve for anyone; especially by myself in such a minimal amount of time. Soccer isn't exactly the 'girls' sport many Americans claim. If you disagree, try sprinting up and down a football field for 90 minutes only to stop at 1 minute intervals to slide tackle someone running into you. It isn't fishing. Regardless, what I want to share with you is the tremendous sunny weekend I had this weekend past in the city of Ulsan at an international soccer tournament.

Ulsan is a city that is practically hidden by the shadows of gigantic Busan. Busan is a mega city with beaches and nightife that can contend with many formidable international destinations, so it's no surprise that not many people visit Ulsan. What is surprising though, is that Ulsan has over a million residents. It's practically the size of Gwangju. Additionally, it's a pretty interesting town to boot! Shame on you Lonely Planet for not even including it in your book.

Fortunately, I had the opportunity to take a couple of days to explore a bit. The main part of the city is divided by a giant river, which has a plethora of parks lining the banks. There is an overabundance of verdant trees and new soccer fields, which is a rare treat for a foreigner living in Suncheon. Also on each side of the river there are several pockets of that ubiquitous downtown 'buzz' that Korea is so famous for. There are many places to meander during the day, pose for photos, have lunch shop and enjoy the scenery. Additionally, that buzz continues into the night a large selection of colorful downtown pedestrian zones, restaurants, cafes, and bars that will put a smile on even the hardest to satisfy. What is especially nice, is that I was completely surprised by this. I had no idea that I would be visiting such an inviting city. It just goes to show that no matter how long you live in a place, that there is always another rock to turn up.

The soccer tournament was a success too of course. We won our first match, then fought hard to reach the quarter finals. We lost, but you need to understand our team is from a city of less than half a million. Suncheon is half the size of Ulsan. We aren't even a shadow of Gwangju, additionally we are even too small to be a metaphorical little brother. We are like a grandchild to mighty Gwangju. This being said, I think you can appreciate the success we've accomplished after competing with teams from the ranks of Busan, Daegu, Gwangju and Ulsan. Regardless of winning or losing though, what is important is that we could stand tall in a city with a group of guys from a low population, and still enjoy ourselves in a surprisingly big and exciting town.

Memories on a Monday

As I crawled out of bed on this frosty November Monday morning I hit the snooze button and curled back into my blankets like an arm in a sling and fell right back into my slumber for another eight minutes. Which is the same feat I later managed to accomplish another four times before succumbing to the inevitable Monday obligatory drudgery of getting dressed and hurrying to work. Despite my trademark cold morning gruff behavior I at least admit that the view from my apartment this morning was especially sunny and clear. In the distance beyond downtown Suncheon I briefly took peek a the clear blue region known as Suncehon Bay, which lies just eight kilometers from Suncheon.

As it is a seasonably chilly Monday, and as most Mondays will continue in this fashion for several months, I am compelled to reminisce about a day spent hiking in late spring around Suncheon Bay and Eco Park. As I have mentioned beforehand, it's conveniently located about eight kilometers from downtown Suncheon. There are several buses that reach the park, however a quicker option would be to just hop in a cab, which only costs between eight and ten thousand won. Once you arrive at the foot of the park, you will be inundated with tall grasslands at a trail head that winds for a kilometer or so through a marshy mudflat area. After advancing along the trail a bit, the mudflat becomes more sea like and you can get a glimpse of some tour boats that head out towards the Korean Strait. Additionally, In this interesting pocket of a swampy sea border you can also catch a glimpse of many interesting migratory birds in flight.

After a kilometer or two the trail begins to push upward. Since me and my sporty girlfriend welcomed the challenge, we continued up for a while. We didn't expect too much in terms of a steep hike, but regardless this is exactly what we were given. As the grade increased it seemed both of us were feeling exceedingly brave with each marching step we managed. From the top the reward paid off in spades. For example, On one hand the flatter, more manageable part of the path, there are a surplus of visitors. However, with each passing step up there seems to be a gradual decrease of humans, which makes the day seem far more peaceful. Also, as many panoramic views from Korea are stunning, the view from above of Suncheon Bay was no exception. There is something about the landscape in this country that is truly unique.

As we stopped for a couple of snapshots and a rest, I really began to wonder what is it about this landscape that I really hold with such a high regard. I guess the main reason is the fact that there are so many mountains that are so close to the sea. They are in their own rights impressive enough. The sea and mountains are equally impressive natural beauties that posses the power to inspire or pacify a great deal of us; not to mention an American living in Korea. What's especially nice about Korea is that you have so many areas of sea and mountain space together. In addition to Suncheon Bay, locally there are the vast coastal areas around Gwanyang, Yeosu, and Nokdong. These areas all offer a picturesque blend of mountain and sea panoramics.

So as I lazily gaze out of my eighteenth story window on this frosty November morning past the city towards the East Sea, while struggling to find a clean shirt, and a useable coffee cup, I tell myself that if I didn't have to drag myself to work today I could do a lot of exploring out in that vast distance beyond. Since I am not a friend of the colder climates, I would object from venturing far today though. However, just to imagine doing it makes me feel warmer inside, which is a good thing for a cold day, isn't it? Because of this, in the spirit of the ever decreasing climate temperatures I reckon I will make a similar posting next week, so stay tuned.

A Monthly Gathering

Last Saturday was one of the more anticipated days for me as a foreigner in South Korea. I have been practicing the mentally exhausting and physically draining sport of Taekwondo for over a year now, and I was finally given the opportunity to showcase my kicks and forms for my official black belt test. I had trained with a reasonably disciplined work ethic, and in the end I think it paid off. Since I am prone to give up on things prematurely I have to admit I am especially pleased to have accomplished something requiring effort. Moreover a black belt with my name in English and Korean would look cool on the mantelpiece.

As I worked diligently for the test, I had little difficulty. Regardless, I was surprised on how fast the actual test flew by anyway. You see, it wasn't just me going for a belt this Saturday. This was the monthly testing in Suncheon, which simply meant that it was an entire day affair with close to five hundred other testers including myself. The candidates for belts were led up in groups of ten to swiftly go through a couple of forms, then with little time to waste were whisked across the floor of the stadium to do some kicks and sparring. After this, it was time for the next group. This was the way it went for the entire day.

On one side you are afforded a glimpse on just how popular the sport is in Korea. Suncheon isn't a small city by Korean comparisons, but there sure were a lot of children and adults who piled into Palma Gym to test for their belt. Imagine 500 students testing for a black belt every month. That's a lot of black belts in Suncheon. Suncheon has given itself the nickname as 'The City of Beautiful People,' however it could have been more appropriately coined: 'The City of Black Belts, So Watch Out!'

What was even more interesting, was the atmosphere inside. Imagine going into a small, crowded arena and seeing a large congregation of five hundred strong punching, kicking, kyeoping(spell check,) stretching, and practicing. Also imagine fitting parents, grandparents, brothers, sisters, girlfriends and boyfriends with cameras as well. Korea can be a cozy place, and last Saturday was no exception.

As the day wore on, I was getting nervous. You see, including myself, there were only three foreigners testing. That meant that many eyes would fall upon us as we went through our routine. However, as the adults tested later, and most of the parents and children had departed, we managed to test in relative quietness. Despite that, there were more than a few curious onlookers to see how the 'waygook' would manage. The crowd who did watch us, was actually really supportive, which I found gratifying. As a foreigner in Korea you have to adjust yourself to be able to deal with a large amount of attention. Sometimes though, like on Saturday, it was a joy to be able to show off my kicks for curious onlookers. So if you find yourself with nothing to do next month, head over to Palma Gym in Suncheon and check out a black belt test.

It's Not Even Lunch Time!

This year I've had the good fortune to act as a type of diplomat from my country to a small handful of schools in this province. By default I am the lone American UNESCO Cross Cultural Awareness Presenter in Jellonamdo Province. I belong to a group of cultural presenters from a whole slew of nations from Canada to Nepal. Interestingly there are three representatives from Nepal, four from Bangladesh, and even three Canadians to boot! In this province alone there are approximately 40 or so individuals from different countries that give little presentations about their homeland, which gives Korean children a glimpse into the homes and lives of a variety of cultures from around the world. What's curious is that I'm the only American. I have no idea how that came to be. Americans seem to be so outgoing, and eager to share things about their country. How did I become the only one here?

Anyway, there are many things I don't understand, therefore adding another one to the list won't do much harm. More importantly, what I do essentially is travel to schools and talk about America. It's nothing special; some photos, a simple ditty on my acoustic guitar, a lesson in making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, pose for a few snapshots with the kids, then I go home. Well, actually I should backtrack a little before the going home bit and explain that I am obliged to go and meet the other teachers and principal at the school first before I am free to depart . It's a formality here, and it's gotta be done.

When entering a Korean school as a visitor one must always take note to greet the principal formally when entering, and in my case with these presentations when leaving as well. I always feel awkward when doing this, but I just keep smiling. Anyway, last Saturday I gave a little presentation to a group of fourth graders in Kwangju and as I was escorted to say goodbye to the principal and some other teachers, I was invited to the most enormous buffet at a non meal time I had ever seen. You see, it just before eleven o'clock. It was past breakfast, and everyone would most likely be eating lunch a couple of hours later. So here I was staring at a huge buffet of several types of chicken, tomatoes, grapes, rice cakes, beverages and so on. What is even more astonishing in retrospect for me at least is that I wasn't even the slightest bit surprised. In Korea, this is normal; it's business as usual. There is always food. As I'm an American, this is a good thing.

This happens quite frequently if you spend time in Korea. For example, any foreign teacher who goes through the volleyball ritual will know what I mean; Play a few sets, have some snacks, play one more, eat some of the take out food brought to the game, drink few cups of beer or rice wine and be merry, then go home and have dinner. Since this is typically done immediately after school, but before dinner time you can still meet up with friends and enjoy pizza in the evening.

Many times I'll go to dinner on a invitation from some hospitable Koreans, and later proceed to a bar or cafe to only be offered more food. Most bars have interesting menus that vary from fruit dishes to festive prawn and chicken platters, to even simple french fries. Additionally all cafes have at least several cake or other dessert choices. You can even find cheesecake. It's normal to have a Korean barbecue, then adjourn to a bar to have some fruit and snacks. Koreans seem to want to keep their guest happy, and one way of doing that is making sure there is an abundance of food available at all times. One should never go hungry here. It's impossible. I think if I had the chance to explain to American children about life in Korea I would make them all jealous by saying that Koreans have better snack times than Americans; and what American doesn't love snack time?

Lost and Found

Who doesn't forget those grand American barber shop experiences? The barbers with bowling shirts that are meant to be fashionable, the guys with one syllable names like; Mitch, Doug, and Nick(pun intended,) the incessant A/C blowing, and the omnipresence of aftershave aroma burning your nostrils. The alarming swiftness which those guys are able to finish cutting your hair with dangerously sharp scissors. Moreover, their ability to shape your hair with sharp things while watching sports on their five inch television located on the opposite side of the barber shop. I always admired their ability to squint at the television screen criticising Chris Mullin's dribbling abilities, or praising Mike Tyson's jabs while successfully cutting my hair. How could impressions like these ever escape anyone? At least I still remember these things. In addition, I remember in greater detail the day I went into a barber shop and came out with my bike stolen.

It was a warm, Saturday evening in July. I was 12, and I rode my white Skyway bmx style bike the two blocks to Castro Valley's Village Barber Shop to get the hair chopped. It was the normal monthly routine. I even had a nice lock for the bike that was shaped like a hook, which if it was used correctly the bike became impenetrable. Despite this, my laziness would be the determining factor in this instance. Since I would be sitting in a chair next to a widow, I had decided that I could leave the bike unlocked and unattended. So there I was watching baseball in the barber chair. This time it was Mike who was quickly snipping away, while commenting on the A's chances for the post season with that new Mark McGuire kid. We watched an inning or so, then I paid my ten bucks, took the free gum and opened the door to an empty, bike less sidewalk. I panicked a little, but didn't realize it was gone immediately. I popped back inside the barber shop and told the guys inside if they saw anyone with a bike. The customers inside said 'we saw nothin!' To make this long story short, the bike was stolen. It was stolen quickly and easily. The lesson here is that in small Californian towns children will steal other children's bikes more frequently than petty stoners in Amsterdam will steal a backpacker's bike.

More over, I think children stole a lot of things from me. I said goodbye to an innumerable amount of items when I was young. For example an expensive baseball jacket went missing a mere few days after I had received it as a birthday present. Children in America seem to have a itchy hand for other children's belongings, and if you leave something there for the taking, it will be nicked. Additionally, This mentality of snatching left behind items seems to cross over the age barrier in America too. It's only common sense that if you are an adult to keep an eye on your stuff.

My reason for writing this is that recently I've been thinking about these situations, because I've been noticing that I tend to be a bit absent minded, therefore I make it easier for things to go missing. Case in point, last week I brought my lab top computer to a soccer match. After the matched we adjourned to our traditional post match meeting spot in Shidae; the Mini-Stop 'patio'. It wasn't until a beer and an ice-cream later that I realized that my personal belongings seemed lighter than usual. My initial panic gave me the chills like I had a serious illness. After informing the soccer players of my recent misfortune, many of them shared my worries, although after a brief moment, one of the more seasoned individuals living in Korea stated that; this was Korea, and no one would take it.

It immediately felt reassuring. I've lived here for close to two years now, and I can actually attest to this notion that Koreans don't really steal so much is completely valid. I am not imparting that Koreans will never nick anything, but I can tell you from experience, that I feel at the least a hundred times more confident being an absent minded fool here in South Korea than I do in California. Anyway, I jumped in a taxi and went back to the stadium where another game was going on. I jogged straight to the sidelines and there on the bench in between several excited Korean players looking at me was my lab top. They knew immediately, which was easy to tell from their shouts of 'notebook, notebook, here here!' I didn't even have to go through the usual 'what color is it?' interrogation that we are accustomed to in America. I felt relieved to have something back so easily.

This isn't the first time I had forgotten something important behind in Korea only to have it exist in the same place when I returned either. I managed the same feat with a digital camera in a Norebong (karaoke room). Although some teenagers took the liberty of taking a few snapshots with it, they still left it there for their owner to collect it unscratched. I've also done the same with keys, mp3 players, shiny coffee mugs, and cell phones. In all of these instances the objects I had absently left behind have all been there collecting dust in the same location where I had left them. This wouldn't happen in America. If you disagree with me, go ahead; leave your bike in front of the barber's.


Ps...just this week alone my taekwondo teacher has left his keys in the ignition to his scotter downstairs in front of our dojon, only to come back an hour later both times to not only see his scotter there untouched, but also his keys safely in the ignition!!

Content in Court!

I have to admit that I am a curiously busy creature. Taekwondo, Music, Soccer, UNESCO presentations, avid reading, blogging, attempts at learning foreign languages, struggling to write a decent children's book in time before the coming millennium, and not to mention my job, are all activities that I partake in with some frequency during my weekly routine. Sometimes I marvel at the fact that I am able to eat-and sleep to boot! Yet, Despite my ability to survive under these relatively hectic circumstances, I must emphasize that it comes with some difficulty.


Oftentimes I will have the notion that what I am doing is rewarding, and my actions are helping me grow as a human. Moreover I find that all of the activities I do are endearing, and the mere actions of doing these things are gratifying. Who wouldn't like to to learn a martial art? What person would frown upon the good, honest exercise of kicking a soccer ball around? Wouldn't any normal person want to get that book idea on paper? Maybe my music, and blogging makes me a bit of a narcissist, but nonetheless I enjoy it and therefore continue with it. The only hurdle I face week in and week out of doing all of the things I enjoy of course is the hurdle of time. Time is one of life's great enemy's.


Since there is only so much of this precious thing called time, which Warren Buffet couldn't even afford to purchase, then we need to make the most of it. In order to do the things we want in life, we initially need to be ace time managers. It isn't easy for anyone, especially someone like myself-who also believes excess sleep is a healthy pursuit that should also be practiced by everyone. In addition I also believe in taking the time to eat at least one decent meal in a day. For this reason alone; it's good that I live in Korea. Now you might turn your nose up and say tut tut at what I am about to impart to you, but in Korea they actually have really tasty food courts, which offer cheap, healthy options.


From many years of experience of being an American, I have learned that one of the quintessential things about life in America is that there is a readily available supply of convenient cheap food. Like Koreans, American lives are proven to be just as busy, if not busier. So to attempt to shave off a few minutes, many of us Yanks will eat greasy fast food. It's the same cheap, greasy fast food that is offered daily at countless food courts across America. If you venture to a shopping mall in America you will see for yourself the array of time saving, calorie adding options that are readily available. Hot dogs on sticks with french fries, pizza slices with enough grease to clog several arteries, fried chicken, with fried cheesy sticks, and even more fried, cheesy type dishes. Despite the fact that this stuff ironically tastes pretty darn good, I think it is no secret that if you eat this kind of garbage every day, it will kill you. What's the use of saving time, if you are going to spend those remaining days in a hospital bed? Coincidentally, in Korea, their food courts have healthy time saving options. You'll spend more time doing the things you want, while eating quick healthy meals.



For example, at Kim's Club, which is conveniently located next to my apartment building, offers at least three or four dishes where the majority of the calories will be in the rice. In less than five minutes you can have a semi-spicy kinchi jigae (which is like a kimchi stew) for less than four dollars. You could also enjoy a semi-sweet bulgogi stew, which is like a beef stew. If you like spicy, or even really frigging spicy, sample the fiery tofu stew at about the same price. By the way your eyes aren't deceiving you. I really did say tofu. Tofu is astonishingly healthy, and it's readily available in many dishes in all food courts across Korea.



In Suncheon, I can immediately name four establishments that have food courts. It's not a large city, but there are plenty of dining options. Kim's Club is my top choice because it's the most accessible to me, and moreover I think the industrious cooks there give more of a personal touch to the dishes. Kim's Club is smaller and is frequented by less customers. Home Plus, E-Mart, and Home Ever all have food courts as well, but are busier, so the cooks there seem to just lash out meals faster with out paying too much attention to the details. Anyway, Each food court does has it's own unique atmosphere, yet the bottom line; like any food court is to save time. So if you come to Korea, and you find yourself in a food court here's some tips to make your order more successful.



First of all, you won't be approached by a waiter. This is fast food rules, so if you can't wait, no one will wait on you. You have to go to the main counter, which is usually located in front of where the informal seating area is. There is a large array of convenient displays of all the food dishes that offer help for anyone unable to read in Hangul. Once you have made your selection point at your dish, hand over your money and keep your receipt. The clerk will then inform you where to pick up your food. There are usually four or five restaurants in the food court area, and each one prepares a different style of food. On your receipt will be a little number. This will be the number of your order. Once your number comes up, go over and retrieve your food. Remember to say thank you too to the gracious hardworking woman who prepared it. If you get thirsty, just grab a metal cup from the water cooler, and pour yourself all the water you can drink. You'll need it, if the food's spicy.



So if you are a busy soul like myself, and you feel like you are always running from one point to another, remember that eating fast food indeed will save time. A stitch in time does save nine, but a stitch in time eating unhealthy fast food will require stitches to re-attach your broken buttons. If you aren't in Korea, and you are lured by unhealthy food courts then for your own health resist the temptation and find a supermarket.

A Harvest Moon

When I crawled out of bed from an uninterrupted twelve hour slumber on Sunday morning, I realized that the day seemed curiously silent. Despite the fact that Suncheon is a relatively small Korean city, it can be as noisy and as bustling as any large Western city. This is because Korea is simply full of life. Suncehon is like any other Korean city; that is, it's full of buzz twenty four hours a day. Cars like to toot their horns freely at all hours, sellers like to announce their products on giant loud speakers in the wee morning hours, and even a few late night revelers add to a normal mix of the outside atmosphere that deprives me of my beauty sleep. I have to say I was a little taken aback that I got so much sleep. I took a minute to make some coffee to wake myself up. Then I enjoyed the peace and quiet, and realized that this day was so quiet because it was Chuseok. For those of you not living here, Chuseok is a holiday.

It's celebrated during the full moon in the eighth month of the Korean lunar calendar. The holiday is actually observed for three days, but the first day is the most celebrated. Koreans typically travel to their hometowns and reunite with their families. Then they all travel to their ancestors' graves, which are giant mounds built on top of the earth, and then covered in grass. This is done in the morning. The family then brings out food as an offering to the deceased, after they bow and pay their respects. The families might picnic at the site as well, and later will pitch in to help tidy up the area around the grave site.

After this the family will return home and enjoy a feast. Chuseok is also sort of a harvest holiday. With most things in Korea food is important, and with a harvest holiday on top of everything, food is even more vital. The quintessential food is Song peon, which is a Korean style rice cake. These take hours to make, but are very tasty. They have a gummy texture to them, which might be strange for any newbie to Korea, but if you've lived here as long as an old pro like myself then they are appreciated. Moreover, Korea used to be a really poor country, so this was one time where people would enjoy food that they might not have had the luxury to taste at another time. These days, the country is economically stable, but regardless a nice meat dish would typically be served as well as some glass noodles, with plenty of spicy side dishes. In the evening Koreans might also take a walk to enjoy the harvest moon shining in the sky.

I think it's a nice holiday to have. It's essentially a day to honor deceased family members, and to celebrate the harvest in one holiday. Also, It's a time for overworked Koreans to take a break from their busy lives and see their families, as well as old friends. The bottom line is that this holiday is about family; living and dead. After they pay their respects, Koreans will have the next day off too. Which is splendid, because it gives them a little extra time to enjoy being together with their families before they fight the traffic back to their residential town.

I am trying to recall if we have any similar holiday in America, and I must admit, I am drawing a blank. We honor our country, God, fathers, mothers, soldiers, teachers, civil rights leaders, presidents, etc, but do Americans have a holiday to honor our families, the people that biologically made us? It would be nice to have one of these days too. Not to get too sidetracked, but I think we can have our own little Chuseok in America too, and it might even go over well.

One thing that I would enjoy at least would be the obvious; having a Monday off work. Who doesn't appreciate a work-less Monday? Doesn't everyone want another day where one isn't required to be someplace at a specific time, or have to face up to consequences. Who wouldn't like another Monday where you didn't need to worry about shaving and wearing a wrinkled shirt? Who wouldn't mind seeing a friend or family member over a long lunch, instead of looking at your watch while inhaling an Arby's Chicken Sandwich before getting back to the office? Regardless, I will tell you what I think. Time might be money, but time spent with friends and family is like gold, and we all could use a little time for that.

Koreans do Chicken Better

If you are an American, then of course you are aware that KFC says they do chicken right. Their crispy, greasy chicken has even exported itself to various other parts of the world as well. At least we know they do capitalism right. These days Colonel Sanders, has become a ubiquitous fast food symbol internationally. When I lived in the Czech Republic, the fast food franchise was cleaning up by opening up a group of restaurants along metro stops in Prague. A couple years later, when I came to Korea I noticed KFC is even making dents in larger cities like Seoul and Gwangju. Nowadays, in my opinion it's a pity. Despite the fact that I can occasionally grab a chicken sandwich(which means a meal with actual bread,) I have to say KFC pales in comparison to the plethora of chicken establishments that exist in every town in South Korea.

It might not sound too appealing to hear that Korea has a lot of chicken restaurants. I understand chicken isn't that important. It isn't always healthy either. In these health conscious, calorie counting times, chicken might not be the most attractive thing to write about. What is interesting for me though, is that one king-size box of chicken in Korea at fourteen dollars can stuff two extremely hungry people beyond capacity. It gets even better too. You can order fried, grilled, boneless, wings, legs, or thighs. In addition, you get a selection of delicious sauces, that KFC will never match. It's making me hungry already.

After you get your chicken, you will also notice that you will get a nice selection of side dishes too; usually a few radishes, and if you're lucky ice-cream, or a bottle of Pepsi. It's always nice to receive something extra for free. If you order chicken, like most things you order in Korea, there will always be something extra. My three favorite establishments are Gupne Chicken, NE Ne(which means YES YES,) Chicken, and Mexican chicken. Gupne specializes in grilled chicken, and they always give you free Pepsi. NE NE gives you ice-cream, and a huge selection of sauces, and finally Mexican Chicken will test your spice tolerance.

To test the popularity of chicken with Koreans, I have asked many of my students which they prefer; chicken, or pizza. What high school student doesn't like pizza? I can tell you all of my students will happily devour pizza. They have no problem eating cheesy crust slices at Pizza Hut or Mr. Pizza. However, if they have to choose, they wouldn't even think twice of ordering chicken. I think they unanimously chose chicken. For your information, I have over a six hundred students. That's a lot of chicken.

We all know it isn't healthy. Vegetarians aside (sorry if I offend any of you,) who doesn't like eating chicken? I guess a little is okay, right? The problem with me though, is that I have my top three chicken restaurant numbers saved in my phone. Each place has caller Id too, so they know where I live and where to deliver. So my situation can be dangerous. It's not just me though, because it's no secret that Koreans do pretty decent chicken.

The Great Outdoors

I think I first heard the term 'Africa Hot,' from a family member when I was a child. It was during one of those family vacations in the mountains where everyone on the family tree participates. Therefore my memory is fuzzy as to which relative had actually used the term 'Africa Hot' in my presence. Regardless, I later learned that the expression was from the 1988 film Biloxi Blues, which was originally a play written by Neil Simon. At the time I thought the 'Africa hot' I was experiencing as a child was like real Africa heat. I have never been to Africa either, so I logically thought at that time that it couldn't get any hotter. Despite this, the 'Africa' like temperatures in California only range between twenty-eight and thirty-five Celsius, which of course is only 'California mountain hot.' Heat can be a relative term. For humans, depending on where they live, the heat can be more tolerable, if they are used to warmer temperatures. I am sure Africans wouldn't complain about the Californian mountain air. Conversely I think an Irish summer tourist in California would have a lot to say about the heat.

These days I'm living in Asia; more specifically South Korea. I still haven't set foot on African Soil, but one day I will. Until I do though, I must say that I hadn't experienced true hot until I came here. After a short pleasant spring June comes, and brings rain with it. Actually it rains a lot, and hard. Going umbrella less out doors isn't an option. The rain doesn't come in drops, it comes in lakes. What's even worse than that is the temperatures range from 25 to 30, so it is quite humid all the time. Later, once the end of July rolls around things start to dry out. The rain disappears, and then the real heat takes the place of the torrential rain. The temperatures are at least 3o degrees, and linger day and night. It gets so hot that an air conditioner is almost a necessity. I am too cheap to buy one though, so I suffer. The fan only helps if it's turned up to '11' , and only during the wee hours of the morning, where there is a helpful soft breeze blowing through my open windows. What's even worse is that the water from all of the rain is constantly evaporating from the rainy season, so the simple act of even venturing outside can easily cover one heavily with sweat. The life saver for me were the coffee houses, and cinemas in Suncheon that have an unlimited supply of A/C. Koreans like to strut their A/C power, which isn't exactly a bad thing in July and August.

Anyway, my reasons for ranting about hot weather is that I've just noticed that tomorrow is September the first. All of my windows are still open for twenty four hours a day, and I still can only manage dressing in shorts and t-shirts, but I actually don't need my fan to cool me at night anymore. I can slowly notice the change in temperature, which is giving me a notion that it will all be over soon, and we can all resume normal lives outdoors again. Which is good, because the fall is a great time to be outdoors, and moreover, what I really want to share with you is that another great thing about living in Korea in the fall is the miles upon miles of mountains to climb and explore.

In fact, according to the Lonely Planet guide, Korea is covered by seventy-percent mountains. Many nations have a specific region that has accessible hiking trails, but in Korea, those trails are everywhere. Even those living in busy Seoul are able to quickly access local peaks. Despite the fact that Korean mountains are not that high(they typically range between 1200 and 1500 meters high,) they just seem to cover just about every province of this nation. *Halasan on Jeju-Do is the highest peak reaching 1950 meters, but is just a mere fraction of mountain space that surrounds South Korea. In terms of elevation, South Korea isn't Tibet- Tibet's average elevation is actually over 4,000 meters. So South Korea can't rightfully be called the Switzerland of Asia. It would however be more fitting to imagine Korea as The Appalations of Asia, with trails sprawling all over the rolling hills and modest peaks, from downtown Seoul to remote areas on Jeju-do.

In Suncheon where I reside, I can literally walk out my door, go down the elevator, cross a parking lot, and take a quick hike past a mountain temple, and continue up, and up, and walk for miles and miles, until I get tired too tired out to continue. The trail head is very close, which makes it a perfect place for an evening sunset climb, or morning pre-work, workout. The only problem of course is the intolerable summer heat. The only occasions I attempt to climb anything is after six in the evening, while I am armed with a large, quite nippy, bottle of water. Additionally, I am also only able to do this mind you, because the mountain is quite shaded until it peaks out.

It's such a nice thing, that I could literally write countless, innumerable, pages giving tribute to the mountains in South Korea. The problem is though, I am going hiking in the morning, so I need my beauty sleep. So in conclusion, I just want to express my gratitude to the month of September for showing its more inviting face. For doing this, I can attest, that I will be out and about climbing mountains here and there, and enjoying the outdoors, like any normal, healthy, human like myself rightfully should. Korea is quite a unique country for its beautiful landscape, and scenery. Because of this, it would be a waste not to experience it. So for a while, Africa is on hold.




*Taken From Lonely Planet Korea-page 66, 2004 ed.

An Alternative Way to Spend a Weekend

Once upon a time, I was younger. Being young was a memorable part of my life too. By the way, when the word memory comes up I usually become a little sentimental, but today I am going to keep the overly sentimental narrative to myself. Instead, in the spirit of relaxing summer vacations, I think it is fitting that I expound on some of the more trivial experiences I had in those 'younger' days. Today I will tell you about how I spent my summer vacations. More specifically, I want talk about rock n' roll.

I like rock music a lot. I've attended concerts in clubs, restaurants, houses, stadiums, arenas, even bookstores. I've seen guitars smashed, pics thrown, mosh pits, fights between bands and audience members, and most other things associated with with rock music gatherings. I've staged dived, crowd surfed, punk jumped, and banged my head enough that it will likely cause brain damage during my golden years. I was (and still am by some degree,) by definition a great enthusiast. If there was a band on a bill, I would be there. Sometimes it was even for my own band. I've even played at places where we were strictly not allowed, and still managed to play a few paltry tunes. Moreover, what I really got a kick out doing was going to rock festivals. I haven't been to that many, but I can recall the several big all day rock shows I was fortunate enough to attend.

My first rock festival was an informal event with 70,000 people called 'Day on the Green. I was seventeen. Metallica, Guns and Roses, and rapper Ice-T's band Body Count played there. The annual concert was notorious for it's giant mosh pits, however, in addition to the mosh pits, the year I went became a night full of heavy metal and grass throwing. Another great festival I went to was the 'Van's Warped Tour.' That was the gigantic California punk rock tour, that has become famous everywhere. I went to the second one ever held in San Francisco. The tickets only cost twenty bucks, but what I also remember as is typical with most large American gatherings is the absurd concession prices. For example, a bottle of water was three dollars.

Anyway, when I was young, I loved partaking in rock n' roll adventures. I am still not old, and I am still able to rock out, but I feel that I am evolving in a way that makes it more manageable to say goodbye to rock. Living in Korea has made that transition easier. There aren't many big rock festivals that pass through this small crowded peninsula. Despite this, there is still one. And yes, for old times sake; I went. It's called the Pentaport Rock Festival. It's in Incheon, which is near Seoul. It lasts for three days during the middle of July. If you got a extra couple hundred dollars you can go too.

Yes, I said a couple hundred dollars. It's expensive, isn't it? The thing is, if you went to a three day festival in the states you would probably pay the same. In addition, I also believe that once inside, you would pay an exorbitant fee for any food or service you needed. The three day ticket also includes free camping. American venues can be quite a rip-off. In Korea, the prices stayed the same. A bottle of water was a dollar, a beer was three dollars, dinner for two, which was delicious, was about ten, and t-shirts and souvenirs were the same prices you would pay at any other shop in town. Anyway, I bought a one day ticket for a more 'modest' price of eighty dollars. Indeed, it was still expensive to enter, but once inside I didn't have that trapped feeling that most large venue events have in America. So the ticket prices made a dent in the wallet, but once inside I was able to relax.

Once inside, I noticed a different atmosphere than what I am accustomed to here. I felt like I actually was younger again among other young rockers who have a lot to prove to the world. South Korea at times can feel a bit formal, and serious, but all of that disappeared the second I walked inside. There were not suits and ties, just young people walking around with either sandals or big rubber boots. The venue was a giant mud covered field near the sea, and it had rained the night before, so the ground had the same sloshiness as the mud festival. Wha was interensting though was, the tickets were on the more expensive side, and the ground was muddy, so I was able to enjoy the fact that one could walk freely to the stage and manage to find a good spot to watch and enjoy the bands.

The first band that I saw were Aussie group The Vines. Imagine Nirvana playing shorter, more polished songs. They weren't the headliners, but they played quite well for one of those 'middle of the afternoon,' bands. After that my girlfriend and I ate some ribs, then we went to see the next band The Gossip. They were quite unique. Imagine a larger version of Stevie Nicks, mixed with a bit of Aretha Franklin. That was their lead singer. I have to say, that she tore it up. The band was OK, but she really energized the crowd with her vocals and on stage personae. She even knew how to talk to Koreans, which might sound strange, but after living here, I've noticed that you can really impress the locals here if you have the right manners. It's not hard either. It just shows you that a little kindness goes a long way, and that's true here.

Anyway, the band I paid so much money to see were the headliners from Scotland; Travis. They were pretty darn good too. They weren't the best band I had ever seen, but they were pretty impressive. They have quite a large catalogue of songs, and were able to play a good deal of them in one evening. They finished the show with an acoustic version of 'flowers in the window.' It was a nice way to wind down from the day. After the last chord was played, we clapped for a few seconds then pushed our way through the mud to the exit and went to sleep. As I'm just not as young as I used to be. However, I'm still not that old. So if you aren't so old, and if you are in the ROK, I recommend making a trip to the Pentaport Rock Festival.

A Visit to the Neighbors

When I was seventeen I assumed I lived in the greatest part on Earth. Now, ironically 15 years later I still believe that is true. I can affirm that the San Francisco Bay Area is the most awesome place on this small planet. However, when I was a young naive lad I had never been to another country, and I was quite ignorant in believing that it wasn't necessary to go anywhere else. Like a typical Californian youth, I felt like all one needed in life was a job that provided the income for unlimited Taco Bell, convenience store stops, a Blcokbuster Card, a guitar, and a car to provide an occasional weekend beach visit. Yes, when I was young I was at the center of the world in northern California. The Bay Area for many of us was, is, and will always be 'hella cool.' It wasn't until a year later when I graduated high school that I realistically gave any thought to seeing another country. Like many young people who live in the land of a 21 year old minimum drinking age, we discover a place south of our tightly controlled border as a respite for tequila popping and cheap burrito binging. I was one of those creatures who, at the ripe young age of 18 discovered Mexico as a place for a young man to partake in such enterprises.

So in the summer in 1994 I visited our neighbors in Mexico. I came, drank, ate, and left with the experience that there are other places out there. When I came home, the visit to Mexico left me with an impression that there was so much more to see in the world. Actually, it had quite a huge impression on me, since I've spent most of the last eight years living in foreign countries. Now looking back at my life it seems mind boggling how many places I've seen; and to think it all started with a visit to the neighbors, where I discovered that foreign countries have something different, unique and interesting to offer.

As this blog is about life in Korea, I told myself I wouldn't write about other countries. Despite this, I will make an exception this week. The reason being is that I have just returned from a visit to Korea's Neighbors, Japan. Since Korea is Japan's neighbor I think it is fitting that I can state that another great thing about living in Korea in fact is its' proximity to Japan. Since many millions of humans have visited Japan, I won't go into too many details about things to see or do there. I will just tell you that if you haven't been, then you are simply missing out.

If you are an American and if you have been to Mexico, you will see that there is a huge difference between the two lands. I can attest that despite the relative close geographical distance both countries are both appealing, and compelling in a variety of their own separate ways. For example in America, everything is readily available. There is nothing like American convenience. Whereas in Mexico, things tend to move at their own pace-and if there is a soccer match on, then the pace becomes immeasurable. So for us living in Korea, Japan is an amazingly enchanting country to visit, which has many differences to life in Korea. Many people living in Korea seem to think that there aren't many differences between the two countries so they ignore Japan come vacation time and travel to more 'exotic' places like Thailand, or The Philippines. There are indeed differences.

The Koreans like to eat really spicy ramen soup, but if you like cheap sushi, and salty ramen visit Japan. In Korea you can learn taekwondo, but if you want to see a great baseball game, come to Japan. If you want to be left alone when you travel, come to Japan. Although, many of us know that if you want to be greeted by an innumerable amount of adorable children, come to Korea. The kids like to greet foreigners here, so if you are in Korea for a short stay, it's a wonderful experience. In Japan, you won't feel like an honored guest or anything, but if you like anonymity, then it's a good break from life in Korea. Additionally if you like to improve your language skills, then Korea is a better place to carry a phrasebook. Less people use English in Korea-with the exception of Seoul, where English is widely used in tourist areas. In Japan however, you can speak English, because they seem to be more used to foreign visitors. These are just a small array of examples about the diversity between two geographically close, but distinctly different nations.

So if you are in Korea, and if you do decide to visit Japan, then congratulations! Getting there is easy too. My illustrious, beautiful, travel agent/girlfriend casually arranged plane tickets from Seoul to Nagoya in Japan for 370 dollars return. It's a pretty good deal. The flight time is about two hours, and during that time, you actually get a pretty tasty lunch, with unlimited drinks to boot! Once safely on the ground in Nagoya, you can just jump on an express train for downtown for about 8 dollars. From there, you can catch a bullet train to anywhere in the country you desire. In Japan, bullet means what it means-bullet. We traveled 140 kilometers to Kyoto, in the time it takes for me to drink a half a cup of coffee; about 35 minutes.

You can also take a boat to Japan from Korea. This is what most people do. There is a hydro foil service from Pusan to Fukuoka. This Journey is about three hours and cost around 270 dollars return. I've heard it's a good service, but you need to book in advance, As many people seem to prefer the boat to the plane, because of it's cheaper rates. I get sea sick, and I am used to sitting in uncomfortable economy seats on planes, and eating single serving meals while wearing a tight seat belt. It's a miserable experience, but it's what I am accustomed to, so I'll stick to the proverbial friendly skies.

Traveling can be a life changing, rewarding experience, which money nor fame can give. Since I have no money, and I am far from famous-except at my school, I can say visiting different foreign countries at least give me a great deal of satisfaction, and a little understanding about the world we live in. Despite this notion of going to far away foreign lands bringing enchantment, it's interesting how unique the places that are geographically close to us also seem to be. If you go from California to Tijuana the food gets decidedly spicier, but if you go from Seoul to Tokyo you might look into your ramen and ask, what happened to the spice?

A Note to My Readers, AKA a Note to Myself

Dear readers,
This note is to inform my patient, consistent 'readers'-actually me, (since I am the primary reader of this blog,) that I will be taking leave from my self appointed post as a blogger of interesting things in the land of Kimchi between the week of the nineteenth to the twenty-sixth. As I will be vacationing in Japan, I will be unable to utilize my time to write anything Korea related. I know how this must come as a great shock to the scores of my global followers that I would actually leave this great nation to partake in sightseeing adventures somewhere else. Despite this, please be confident that I will be back shortly and I will carry on with this historic task of sharing things about life here with you-or to myself.

If you aren't me reading this, then congratulations! You are one of the few. If you are still reading on, then thank you again. If you are now thinking what a terrible narcissist the author is, then you might be right, but bear in mind that I love what I am doing. There are many things that give great pleasure to people, and putting words together to create sentences is one of those things that strangely makes me content. I have played guitar for the last twelve years; and I thought it was something that would give me satisfaction, but I always felt like I was always striving to achieve something. There was never an end. I always felt like I was trying to climb a mountain. If you are always climbing the mountain it kinda sucks the joy out of the whole trip. Anyway, these days guitar is still a great hobby, but with writing, I find it's something I just enjoy doing. It's an enjoyment where once I stop, I find it easy to lose track of time. It's gotten to the point where I am happy wasting away a Friday night simply rambling in my diary about how great Korea is because there are Styrofoam sidewalks. So it's because of this that I am informing my ardent blog readers; but most likely myself. That as kimchi is red, I will undoubtedly will return next week. This is what I like.

A Dirty Weekend, But Somebody's Gotta Do It!

It's a Friday evening in the middle of July in Suncheon. The weekend has commenced. Since it's the warm time of the year, life has become a twenty-four hour T-shirt and Sandal affair. I love this time. I despise hiding in my flop-house apartment while watching the harsh, wretched, winters. Life for me is waiting in the dugout for the spring and summer seasons. After August, I feel like the season is over and I head back to the bench to wait for spring training. Sorry for the baseball metaphor, but I'm an American and a baseball person to boot. Speaking about being an American, I notice that all of the Americans on this glorious July evening have disappeared. It's summer and I feel like the only foreign teacher in town. No one stays indoors around here. They must be somewhere, So where are my friends? After a few minutes of contemplating this little glitch in the Suncheon social scene, because sometimes my brain takes time to make realizations, and after a short lived period of intense concentration, I finally recall that this weekend is the Boryeong Mud Festival. Of Course! That's where everyone has gone. It's one of the biggest summer events for foreigners and Koreans in South Korea, and since I'm going to spend all of my money in Japan next week watching-yes; Baseball. I'm the only foreign teacher in this town not attending the weekend event.



So everyone else will be doing exactly what the name Mud Festival might suggest; playing like a child in the mud. I am here alone this weekend, but since I attended last year, I think I am qualified to share a few experiences with you. Since 1998, foreigners and Koreans alike congregate to a massive beach in the town of Boryeong and completely cover themselves in mud for a few days, then hose off and call it a weekend. The beach is about 2 kilometres long, and along that beach there is a plethora of themed tents each specializing in some sort of mud shenanigans. For example, there is a mud prison where you can submit yourself to a short period behind bars, while you wade in a pool of slushy mud. If that's not for you there is the giant mud wrestling pool, where the US GI's tend to end up and partake in throwing each other around. They provide a big part of the entertainment, as they can really throw each other. There are also hundreds of Koreans taking photos, since the most prized photos are always highlighted to advertise the following year's festival. So watch out if you go because you will feel like a mud caked celebrity. The highlight for me actually is the where you get painted in an assortment colors of mud. There a several tents scattered about that will just paint you head to toe in various colors, and will also draw interesting designs on you with a selection of brushes. I think I ended up looking like a giant, hairy, smurf with brown mud cracked feet. I would look strange anywhere else, but in Boryeong it's business as usual. It's kind of an enchanting experience to be covered in mud among thousands of others.



The town of Boryeong has a unique overabundance of mud. It was also an unrivaled idea that gave them this strangely popular festival. Instead of using mud for agriculture, the town decided to try to use it to lure the tourist here. There is even a centrally located mud museum, and an interesting gift shop where you can buy actual mud soap. Talk about irony. So the idea of mud tourism has worked here. Since 1998 the Mud Fest has become one of the most popular festivals in South Korea. This is a country that isn't in need of festivals either. To name a few, there is the Buddha Street Parade in Seoul, The Jinju Lantern Festival, and the Pentaport Rock Festival in Incheon, which the bands Travis and Underworld will headline this year's bill. In just over ten years of existence, the Mud Festival is something that has become a cultural phenomenon, and a playground for young and old. That's right the kids come too.



It's not just foreigners and, Korean college photographers who partake, but Korean families come out in huge numbers to experience the muddiness. I really like this bonding between Koreans and foreigners. During my sojourn here, I sometimes feel like I haven't had many opportunities to mix with Koreans. Despite my best efforts to be a good diplomat I feel like foreigners and Koreans keep sort of a safe distance between each other. Maybe we are all just too different and it's easier to maintain our own singularity. We like to stay on our own islands. I can live with this, but I was delighted to see that this doesn't really exist at the mud festival. It's rare to see people interacting as one. I guess everyone is essentially the same at the Mud Fest because at the end of the day, everyone is covered from head to foot in brown, crackly mud.


So after everyone cakes themselves with mud, and a well deserved shower, most people regroup for the evening program, which includes; a rock concert, fireworks, and food and drink on the beach. After watching a few cover bands on the main stage, I floated over to the quieter side of the beach with some friends and smuggled a few cans of Hite and some bottle rockets and enjoyed the clear summer evening watching the fireworks pop over my head as the mosquitoes gnawed at my freshly showered legs. It was a lasting, captivating experience. So it's a pity that I'm holed up in Suncheon for the 2008 festival, but that's life. Sometimes you have to give up something to get something better in return. I am looking forward to seeing baseball in Japan though, and I think that can be another unique experience, which will be worth writing about. So, before I get back to my quiet weekend, I leave you with this advice. If you are thinking about coming to the Mud Festival, bring a change of clothes, and book a comfortable room early. It's the place to be in the middle of July.

A Happy Head

In Suncheon, the town where I hang my hat these days, there is a monstrous chain store called Home Plus. In Home plus you can buy almost anything you need for your home and your kitchen-plus! (sorry I had to say it.) Anyway, it's a convenient place to shop. As a matter of fact, I bought a new Ipod Nano to replace the one I had washed yesterday, then I immediately retreated to the lower level to purchase my weekly groceries. Just like that, talk about accessibility! Because of this handy novelty most foreigners tend to congregate here on a daily basis. If you ask me, if you took the top five places where you would find a non-Korean face in Suncheon; Home Plus would rank in the top 3. The other two would be in the Shidae Apartment elevator, because that's where all of us wonderful English Teachers reside; the apartment, not the elevator, and probably Elvis bar, which is a little bar which has an overabundance of vinyl albums and whose owner is patently called Elvis. What is also attractive to foreigners at Home Plus is the top floor because it has a food court style restaurant that has enormous portions of food for as little as four dollars a meal, but what is curiously appealing is something that lies right besides the food court. There you will find a relatively affordable hair dresser that gives you the greatest head massages for no charge. If you get your hair cut there, you will also be treated to a complimentary double wash and dry, with a no -nonsense, intense scalp massage.

If you are foreigner in Korea, you won't have to make any appointments. Just walk in, and they will see you. Since you are are a visitor to Korea, they will usually try to expedite your visit. Koreans want to give their nation a hospitable face regarding customer service with foreigners. As a bonus If you do have to wait they will graciously offer you some coffee to keep you awake for the entire five minutes you might actually have to sit there unattended. See they will go out of their way to get you a seat with a hair-stylist who will consequently try to speak a little English-but you shouldn't expect much. Their English isn't great, and their hair cutting English is lacking a vocabulary bank. They will mostly just tell you how handsome you are. Koreans like to pay compliments. Even to less hairy folks like me. At the least there will be hundreds of magazine photos to choose from to match the hair style you want. My Korean is non-existent and I usually manage by choosing a picture of David Beckham or someone much cooler and hipper than me and hope that they can mysteriously create the same

Once you are in a chair, you will be asked again what you want them to do with your hair. Just show them Beckahm! Then you will be whisked away to the sink by a stylist in training; usually a girl just out of high school, where she will begin phase one of your hair transformation. Then after a quick shampoo and dry, you get led back to your 'head,' hair cutter, who works on your hair with a passion that I really don't understand, but I just let them work away, and hope that they remember the picture revealed to them. As he cuts, there is another assistant who stands there with a giant sponge and removes the little hairy bits that tend to scratch a little. So if you're counting, that's a total of three people working on your hair. I think there are less people assigned to surgically remove a brain tumor. Once the hair is cut, and it's closely matching the photo, although most likely much shorter than you had anticipated, then it's time to hit the sink again.

This is the part where the girl massages your scalp-after another shampoo and towel dry of course. It's isn't just tender Korean hand touches poking at little points of your head, but it's an intense, brain tingling, stress relieving affair, that leaves you refreshed till dinnertime. Your cranium feels like it's being kneaded like pizza dough, but in the end it feels so delightful. So after your deep brain press, you just hop back in the chair, and girl assistant number two turns on a hair dryer and dries the little parts girl number one missed. Then the head cutter instructs girl number two where to apply the gel to make your hair look stylish.

You then walk to the counter and pay your 11,000 won tab. By the way that's like 11 dollars. I don't have to tell you how much more a cut of this opulence would be in America. The cheapest place in my little home town charges 14 dollars, and that's by moaning, hungover, miserable ladies who just chop your hair with noisy electronic clippers for fifteen minutes and expect a tip in the end. In Korea, you never have to tip-anywhere! If you try, the Korean will just give you your money back informing you that you had paid too much. After paying-who is another lady by the way, you will then be thanked greatly by receiving many countless bows from all three ladies, then you will escorted to the main door by the head stylist who will bid you a safe journey home. Then you will receive one final courteous bow, and you'll walk out with a smile, much shorter hair, and a relaxed scalp.