This blog is intended to be a series of random anecdotes, videos, and other media about my daily life as a curious foreigner in in foreign countries. From my misadventures, endearing cultural experiences, friendships, and strange encounters, to the coffee shops and language pitfalls, I promise to share it all!
One year ago there was so much snow in Warsaw. Where is it this year? I understand that bigger and more important things have happened over the year, and the lack of snow this winter is hardly worth a mention. Moreover, For me it is a welcome event as I’ve been able to go jogging a bit later in the year than usual, and I’ve been spared the sensation of experiencing the bitter cold when stepping outside at six o’clock in the morning on my way to work. Despite my small good fortune,it’s odd that the temperature is well above freezing, and that it still feels like autumn. I’m not complaining, I’m just saying it’s weird. It’s at least a little unusual, isn’t it?
Flash back to November 2010 and you might remember a different situation. I took a short walk in the afternoon and was nearly blinded and blown over by a freak snow and wind storm. A month later, I bravely went on a freezing holiday stroll through the lit up streets of Warsaw admiring all of the glowing lights and snow covered trees before Christmas. This year, the lights and trees are present, but there is not a flake of snow. See for yourself in my video.
Two weeks ago was the American Film Festival in Wroclaw, Poland. In one venue for five days a variety of films of past and present from the indie arena and Hollywood were showcased to a thong of eager film enthusiasts. Retrospectives from directors such as; Billy Wilder and Terrance Malick, cutting edge indie-directors, silent films, jazz themed films, documentaries, as well as lectures and workshops, were all on offer for film lovers. As an American citizen and American film-enthusiast myself living in Warsaw, this seemed like a perfect opportunity for me to stretch my curious wings, poke my nose around a bit, and have a peek. So I did and because of this was far from disappointed. After purchasing nine tickets for screenings beforehand from the festival’s website, procuring a train ticket from Warsaw to Wroclaw, and booking a room at the modestly priced Hotel Polonia beforehand, I was ready to escape the capital of Poland and enjoy three days of unadulterated film enjoyment in the charming and scenic city of Wroclaw.
As Polish trains are notorious for being less than punctual, the train arrival in Wroclaw on Friday evening was no exception. In light of this arduous eight hour journey, I missed the first screening I had procured tickets for, which was Billy Wilder’s The Apartment. Steadfastly in my attempt replicate the first mishap of missing the first film, I dutifully hurried to check in at the Hotel Polonia and subsequently unloaded my luggage in an action not dissimilar to a hurried throwing motion across the room, and then set off for the festival, which was another 20 minutes on foot across town. Despite my hurried pace and following the map in meticulous fashion I ended up missing the start of the second film by about 15 minutes. Unfortunately, It was another Billy Wilder film, this time the film; One Two Three, which if you haven’t seen, you should. After missing this timeless film on the big screen, I soothed myself by thinking that at least I was in Wroclaw and was able to find the festival at Kino Helios in plenty of time before the third film, which was Robert Altman’s depression era jazz tribute Kansas City. The plan had been to see nine films between Friday evening and Sunday morning. After missing the first two, the plan shrank to seven in three days. Because of this setback, I pledged that nothing was going to keep me constrained from seeing all seven. Anyway, after picking up my tickets and with an hour or so to kill before the late screening of the Robert Altman film, I decided to saunter over to the square a few blocks away and find something for my empty stomach. After enjoying a deep dish pizza, and a strong coffee, I made my way back to the cinema. After finding a seat in the partially full screening room, I was able to be entertained by the first of seven films.
After a long series of adverts I was able to enjoy Altman’s film, which was quite entertaining. However, I would have to admit it fell quite short of a masterpiece. Nevertheless, Kansas City is a must see for anyone interested in depression era life, or the Jazz scene in Kansas City during this era. The acting is lively and entertaining, but Jennifer Jason Leigh’s charm didn’t win me over as I thought her performance was bit over the top. Nevertheless, my pickiness aside, it was a highly enjoyable first film to inaugurate my weekend movie marathon. After the journey to Wroclaw and the two hour film, it was sleepy time.
Saturday proved to be much more promising. After waking up at a respectable hour and having a hearty breakfast in the hotel’s restaurant, I was charged to enjoy an entire day of film enjoyment. The plan was to see five films this day. The first film was Buster Keaton’s ‘The General,’ which started at 9:45. I miraculously found myself at the festival at 9am, which left enough time to enjoy a third coffee to compliment the two I had consumed at the hotel previously. The screening room was disturbingly only half full. You see, it is my opinion that The General is one of the greatest films ever made. So, if a film like the General plays on the big screen, one would expect more in the audience. However, I guess, filling any people in a cinema at 9:45 on Saturday is an accomplishment in itself. There is not much I can really say that hasn’t been said about this masterpiece. Except for the fact that a new musical score was added to this festival print, which was quite memorable. If you haven’t seen ‘the General,’ I recommend this re-release of the original 1927 version with a new musical score.
Four movies, a kebab, and a platter of fish and chips later, I found that it was nearly midnight. After watching the recent Phillip Seymour Hoffman film, two Terrance Malick films, and Billy Wilder’s Sunset Boulevard, I was exhausted. It was an eventful day that could be written about for too long to bore the average blog reader to death. Nevertheless, I must be said that after this full day, my highlight was a re-discovery of the brilliance of Billy Wilder films. For those only familiar with his most famous film ‘Some Like it Hot,’ should really take the time to see his lesser known films.
Sunday, I even managed to make it over in time to see another Billy Wilder film. This time it was a courtroom drama with mixture of British wit, American fast talking, and the screen seductiveness of Marlene Dietrich in the plot-twisting film ‘Witness for the Prosecution.’ I highly enjoyed it, but the biggest surprise for me was Sunset Boulevard, which finished with a loud and quite spontaneous applause the day before. My biggest recommendation would be to see this film. The awarded films from the festival were the indie film ‘Somewhere Tonight,’ and the documentary ‘Sing your Song.’ The most popular attraction was the Todd Solondz retrospective and his appearance at the festival. All of these attractions I skipped in favor of watching older films. Watching older films on the big screen is purely a selfish activity based on the fact that I prefer having a chance to see black and white films on the big screen. Nevertheless, the newer films were definitely the more popular options.
After swiftly making my exit from Kino Helios, I boarded the EC train to Warsaw promptly at 1:45, which was only 15 minutes late for a change. I’m already counting down the days to the next festival, which is probably too soon.
For many guys back home in the States, the tradition of Monday Night Football is something that has always been close to our hearts as something to cheer us up a bit after surviving the drudgery of another dismal Monday working day. It’s been a part of American culture for as long as I can remember anyway, which is getting longer as each day passes. For 16 weeks a year there is always Monday Night Football. That means during this period there is always a chanced to escape and relax a bit after the short weekend. However, if you’re a guy in the states, it’s too bad you don’t live in Poland for Monday night schnitzel and beer night at U Szwejka (at Szwejk’s) in Warsaw. Here it's not only about escaping, but it's like getting another weekend evening getting added to our life. Sorry, but Mondays in Poland are better for the guys (and girls too).
Read the following information with caution. May cause hunger!
Imagine, cutting board sized Vienna style schnitzel steaks coated in bread crumbs, with fresh lemon juice, a side of sour kraut, red cabbage, served with French fries, for a mere 15 zlotys (five dollars). Sound good? Then come to Warsaw on Mondays. If you’re not convinced yet(and shame on me for not mentioning this yet,) the best part is that the beer is on special on Mondays. One liter of Czech Pilsner Uriquell, or Polish Tyeskie, will only set you back 7.50 Zl. (two dollars and fifty cents). You can procure a full liter on Monday nights for less than a half liter will cost you in other pubs. If you come to Paris for the proverbial romantic weekend getaway, make a stopover in Warsaw on your way home.
The Czech style restaurant is fashioned in tribute to the Hasek novel “The Good Soldier Sviejk,” which is partly a World War I satire centered around the tribulations of the central character Svejk. When reading the novel, Svejk immediately might seem harmless and fun loving to the reader, which in a way characterizes the restaurant’s fun and gregarious atmosphere. A friendly place, which offers a cozy and convivial setting that would impress the grandest of Czechs-even Svejk himself.
It’s crowded though, so don’t expect a free table on arrival. The plethora of servers whizzing around bringing giant beer mugs to tables are friendly enough and will help you find a table if one is free. Normally though, be ready for a bit of a line outside the door. However, we’re usually sitting in a table in ten minutes tops after turning up.
By the way, some of us teachers have started a little club. It’s called the Szwejka Monday Night Schnitzel Club. This is no April fools joke. It's no ruse. We’re on facebook. We have members. We’re growing in numbers. We mean business. We can all attest to the fact that it’s better than Monday Night Football as well. Give us the Pepsi Challenge. We unanimously choose Szwejk over NFL on TV on Mondays. Join us. Come for the Schnitzels, and stay for the beer(s). Oh and by the way, girls are welcome too. They also have 10zl (three dollar) strawberry margaritas.
In just about one year Warsaw won’t only be the capital of Poland accommodating close to 2,000,000 residents, but the city will also play host to European Football Championship. From today in fact, the kickoff will be in 367 days. This means, well a lot. More specifically though, it means people of all European walks of life, all shapes, sizes and beer preferences will be traveling here to root for their respective nation’s football club. As a reminder to myself, I plan to stay out of their way. Anyway,it means that in addition to the normally hectic pace of life around these parts, and as a foregone conclusion thousands of football fanatical tourists will be struggling to find a hotel room and a bar seat on lively Nowy Swiat. Oh, and yes, the brand spanking new national stadium is also expected to be open for business.
Seating 55,000, boasting 4 mega restaurants, a massive glass roof to protect the bellowing fans in the winter, close to 900 restrooms, and an ultra modern design showcasing a 100 foot tower reaching out into the sky, the soon to be finished stadium will rival any other major stadium built in Europe. Of course it just has to finish before June 2012. According to Sports and Tourism Minister Adam Giersz, it is the Symbol of the Euro 2012 project, which is being co-hosted by Poland and the Ukraine.
It’s no secret. Rising out of the sky as one traverses by tram across the Vistula River, the stadium under construction will catch the attention of any curious or out of town passenger. The construction site now looks as if something truly grand might just grace Warsaw with a truly magnificent treasure any time soon. It just has to finish before kickoff for the opening match in June 2012. Go to the website and chart the progress for yourself. The website is chalked full of interactive gadgets to keep you busy for a while, and you can even check out my video from a week ago.
What is a Kafkaesque experience exactly? I’ve read The Metamorphosis, and to me I got the impression that one goes through a process of feeling less and less significant and relevant as time passes. Then you finally you get squished and no one cares. That’s life. Luckily, this wasn't what happened to me when I went to Café Kafka by the University library last week.
This is what my Kafkaesque experience was like. To start, unlike visits to Starbucks and other mega-coffee houses, I was treated like an anonymous customer, which was a pleasant change. There was no chirpy Starbucks banter greeting me as I approached the cash register, no ultra-clean Coffee-Heaven Uniformity, and no there were no prices on the cakes in the display case. I went inside, as one of the handful of available mellow employees while calmly, almost surreptitiously took my order, and invited me park myself in a comfortable seat where I would be served a welcoming cup of coffee by another amicable, yet reserved resident coffee maker. I got nothing spectacular, just a simple coffee. Or a cup of Kafka with a small flask of warm milk. For a coffee house these days simplicity was a pleasant surprise.
What’s interesting though is the atmosphere. A wall of books (which are for sale by the kilo,) a random wall of antlers, furry bar-stool seats near the window, a disorganized colorful chalkboard menu, a pile of board games, cartoon posters, and black and white tile floors, which in sum gave me the feeling that I was back in Berkeley in the mid 90’s before average Americans got the infections coffee bar buzz and before everything got all corporate.
It was almost like everything had been recycled. Café Kafka is a testament to all those places that don’t exist anymore in America, and will slowly be erased by the mega-coffee franchises globalizing their way to a neighborhood near you. If you want a quiet place for a chat, bury yourself in your book or lab-top or want an escape from the typical coffee scene in Warsaw, then metamorphisize yourself and opt for something simpler.
