Thursday, December 29, 2011

Where's the Snow?




One year ago there was so much snow in Warsaw. Where is it this year? I understand that bigger and more important things have happened over the year, and the lack of snow this winter is hardly worth a mention. Moreover, For me it is a welcome event as I’ve been able to go jogging a bit later in the year than usual, and I’ve been spared the sensation of experiencing the bitter cold when stepping outside at six o’clock in the morning on my way to work. Despite my small good fortune,it’s odd that the temperature is well above freezing, and that it still feels like autumn. I’m not complaining, I’m just saying it’s weird. It’s at least a little unusual, isn’t it?

Flash back to November 2010 and you might remember a different situation. I took a short walk in the afternoon and was nearly blinded and blown over by a freak snow and wind storm. A month later, I bravely went on a freezing holiday stroll through the lit up streets of Warsaw admiring all of the glowing lights and snow covered trees before Christmas. This year, the lights and trees are present, but there is not a flake of snow. See for yourself in my video.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

An American in Wroclaw




Two weeks ago was the American Film Festival in Wroclaw, Poland. In one venue for five days a variety of films of past and present from the indie arena and Hollywood were showcased to a thong of eager film enthusiasts. Retrospectives from directors such as; Billy Wilder and Terrance Malick, cutting edge indie-directors, silent films, jazz themed films, documentaries, as well as lectures and workshops, were all on offer for film lovers. As an American citizen and American film-enthusiast myself living in Warsaw, this seemed like a perfect opportunity for me to stretch my curious wings, poke my nose around a bit, and have a peek. So I did and because of this was far from disappointed. After purchasing nine tickets for screenings beforehand from the festival’s website, procuring a train ticket from Warsaw to Wroclaw, and booking a room at the modestly priced Hotel Polonia beforehand, I was ready to escape the capital of Poland and enjoy three days of unadulterated film enjoyment in the charming and scenic city of Wroclaw.

As Polish trains are notorious for being less than punctual, the train arrival in Wroclaw on Friday evening was no exception. In light of this arduous eight hour journey, I missed the first screening I had procured tickets for, which was Billy Wilder’s The Apartment. Steadfastly in my attempt replicate the first mishap of missing the first film, I dutifully hurried to check in at the Hotel Polonia and subsequently unloaded my luggage in an action not dissimilar to a hurried throwing motion across the room, and then set off for the festival, which was another 20 minutes on foot across town. Despite my hurried pace and following the map in meticulous fashion I ended up missing the start of the second film by about 15 minutes. Unfortunately, It was another Billy Wilder film, this time the film; One Two Three, which if you haven’t seen, you should. After missing this timeless film on the big screen, I soothed myself by thinking that at least I was in Wroclaw and was able to find the festival at Kino Helios in plenty of time before the third film, which was Robert Altman’s depression era jazz tribute Kansas City.
The plan had been to see nine films between Friday evening and Sunday morning. After missing the first two, the plan shrank to seven in three days. Because of this setback, I pledged that nothing was going to keep me constrained from seeing all seven. Anyway, after picking up my tickets and with an hour or so to kill before the late screening of the Robert Altman film, I decided to saunter over to the square a few blocks away and find something for my empty stomach. After enjoying a deep dish pizza, and a strong coffee, I made my way back to the cinema. After finding a seat in the partially full screening room, I was able to be entertained by the first of seven films.

After a long series of adverts I was able to enjoy Altman’s film, which was quite entertaining. However, I would have to admit it fell quite short of a masterpiece. Nevertheless, Kansas City is a must see for anyone interested in depression era life, or the Jazz scene in Kansas City during this era. The acting is lively and entertaining, but Jennifer Jason Leigh’s charm didn’t win me over as I
thought her performance was bit over the top. Nevertheless, my pickiness aside, it was a highly enjoyable first film to inaugurate my weekend movie marathon. After the journey to Wroclaw and the two hour film, it was sleepy time.

Saturday proved to be much more promising. After waking up at a respectable hour and having a hearty breakfast in the hotel’s restaurant, I was charged to enjoy an entire day of film enjoyment. The plan was to see five films this day. The first film was Buster Keaton’s ‘The General,’ which started at 9:45. I miraculously found myself at the festival at 9am, which left enough time to enjoy a third coffee to compliment the two I had consumed at the hotel previously. The screening room was disturbingly only half full. You see, it is my opinion that The General is one of the greatest films ever made. So, if a film like the General plays on the big screen, one would expect more in the audience. However, I guess, filling any people in a cinema at 9:45 on Saturday is an accomplishment in itself. There is not much I can really say that hasn’t been said about this masterpiece. Except for the fact that a new musical score was added to this festival print, which was quite memorable. If you haven’t seen ‘the General,’ I recommend this re-release of the original 1927 version with a new musical score.

Four movies, a kebab, and a platter of fish and chips later, I found that it was nearly midnight. After watching the recent Phillip Seymour Hoffman film, two Terrance Malick films, and Billy Wilder’s Sunset Boulevard, I was exhausted. It was an eventful day that could be written about for too long to bore the average blog reader to death. Nevertheless, I must be said that after this full day, my highlight was a re-discovery of the brilliance of Billy Wilder films. For those only familiar with his most famous film ‘Some Like it Hot,’ should really take the time to see his lesser known films.

Sunday, I even managed to make it over in time to see another Billy Wilder film. This time it was a courtroom drama with mixture of British wit, American fast talking, and the screen seductiveness of Marlene Dietrich in the plot-twisting film ‘Witness for the Prosecution.’ I highly enjoyed it, but the biggest surprise for me was Sunset Boulevard, which finished with a loud and quite spontaneous applause the day before. My biggest recommendation would be to see this film. The awarded films from the festival were the indie film ‘Somewhere Tonight,’ and the documentary ‘Sing your Song.’ The most popular attraction was the Todd Solondz retrospective and his appearance at the festival. All of these attractions I skipped in favor of watching older films. Watching older films on the big screen is purely a selfish activity based on the fact that I prefer having a chance to see black and white films on the big screen. Nevertheless, the newer films were definitely the more popular options.

After swiftly making my exit from Kino Helios, I boarded the EC train to Warsaw promptly at 1:45, which was only 15 minutes late for a change. I’m already counting down the days to the next festival, which is probably too soon.