Friday, July 11, 2008

A Dirty Weekend, But Somebody's Gotta Do It!


It's a Friday evening in the middle of July in Suncheon. The weekend has commenced. Since it's the warm time of the year, life has become a twenty-four hour T-shirt and Sandal affair. I love this time. I despise hiding in my flop-house apartment while watching the harsh, wretched, winters. Life for me is waiting in the dugout for the spring and summer seasons. After August, I feel like the season is over and I head back to the bench to wait for spring training. Sorry for the baseball metaphor, but I'm an American and a baseball person to boot. Speaking about being an American, I notice that all of the Americans on this glorious July evening have disappeared. It's summer and I feel like the only foreign teacher in town. No one stays indoors around here. They must be somewhere, So where are my friends? After a few minutes of contemplating this little glitch in the Suncheon social scene, because sometimes my brain takes time to make realizations, and after a short lived period of intense concentration, I finally recall that this weekend is the Boryeong Mud Festival. Of Course! That's where everyone has gone. It's one of the biggest summer events for foreigners and Koreans in South Korea, and since I'm going to spend all of my money in Japan next week watching-yes; Baseball. I'm the only foreign teacher in this town not attending the weekend event.



So everyone else will be doing exactly what the name Mud Festival might suggest; playing like a child in the mud. I am here alone this weekend, but since I attended last year, I think I am qualified to share a few experiences with you. Since 1998, foreigners and Koreans alike congregate to a massive beach in the town of Boryeong and completely cover themselves in mud for a few days, then hose off and call it a weekend. The beach is about 2 kilometres long, and along that beach there is a plethora of themed tents each specializing in some sort of mud shenanigans. For example, there is a mud prison where you can submit yourself to a short period behind bars, while you wade in a pool of slushy mud. If that's not for you there is the giant mud wrestling pool, where the US GI's tend to end up and partake in throwing each other around. They provide a big part of the entertainment, as they can really throw each other. There are also hundreds of Koreans taking photos, since the most prized photos are always highlighted to advertise the following year's festival. So watch out if you go because you will feel like a mud caked celebrity. The highlight for me actually is the where you get painted in an assortment colors of mud. There a several tents scattered about that will just paint you head to toe in various colors, and will also draw interesting designs on you with a selection of brushes. I think I ended up looking like a giant, hairy, smurf with brown mud cracked feet. I would look strange anywhere else, but in Boryeong it's business as usual. It's kind of an enchanting experience to be covered in mud among thousands of others.



The town of Boryeong has a unique overabundance of mud. It was also an unrivaled idea that gave them this strangely popular festival. Instead of using mud for agriculture, the town decided to try to use it to lure the tourist here. There is even a centrally located mud museum, and an interesting gift shop where you can buy actual mud soap. Talk about irony. So the idea of mud tourism has worked here. Since 1998 the Mud Fest has become one of the most popular festivals in South Korea. This is a country that isn't in need of festivals either. To name a few, there is the Buddha Street Parade in Seoul, The Jinju Lantern Festival, and the Pentaport Rock Festival in Incheon, which the bands Travis and Underworld will headline this year's bill. In just over ten years of existence, the Mud Festival is something that has become a cultural phenomenon, and a playground for young and old. That's right the kids come too.



It's not just foreigners and, Korean college photographers who partake, but Korean families come out in huge numbers to experience the muddiness. I really like this bonding between Koreans and foreigners. During my sojourn here, I sometimes feel like I haven't had many opportunities to mix with Koreans. Despite my best efforts to be a good diplomat I feel like foreigners and Koreans keep sort of a safe distance between each other. Maybe we are all just too different and it's easier to maintain our own singularity. We like to stay on our own islands. I can live with this, but I was delighted to see that this doesn't really exist at the mud festival. It's rare to see people interacting as one. I guess everyone is essentially the same at the Mud Fest because at the end of the day, everyone is covered from head to foot in brown, crackly mud.


So after everyone cakes themselves with mud, and a well deserved shower, most people regroup for the evening program, which includes; a rock concert, fireworks, and food and drink on the beach. After watching a few cover bands on the main stage, I floated over to the quieter side of the beach with some friends and smuggled a few cans of Hite and some bottle rockets and enjoyed the clear summer evening watching the fireworks pop over my head as the mosquitoes gnawed at my freshly showered legs. It was a lasting, captivating experience. So it's a pity that I'm holed up in Suncheon for the 2008 festival, but that's life. Sometimes you have to give up something to get something better in return. I am looking forward to seeing baseball in Japan though, and I think that can be another unique experience, which will be worth writing about. So, before I get back to my quiet weekend, I leave you with this advice. If you are thinking about coming to the Mud Festival, bring a change of clothes, and book a comfortable room early. It's the place to be in the middle of July.

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