Christmas in Korea

I don't think I have ever eaten so much in one sitting at any time during my existence on this planet in a single day. If you put the food I consumed on a scale, you would undoubtedly have to buy a new scale after breaking it. Actually I fear the simple act of weighing myself. I wouldn't tip scales, but annihilate them. That's okay though, because today is Christmas. After strategically skipping breakfast, I sauntered downtown for a giant potluck style turkey dinner with fifty other teachers living in Suncheon, where we partook in a messy affair of eating copious amounts of turkey, stuffing, potatoes, lashed with tons of gravy topped with many other regional dishes including; pierogi, garlic bread, smoked salmon stuffed with cream cheese, and even a few vegetables on the side. Of course, that was the second best part. The highlight in my opinion was the rich, succulent desserts that were ripe for the picking after dinner was consumed. In record time I devoured a immodest slice of carrot cake, and a even larger slice of pumpkin pie with a dollop of whip cream. However that wasn't enough to satisfy me, so I inevitably had to load my plate a second time. In this round I just plopped down a couple of heaping scoops of a pudding, gram cracker, crumbly dish that somehow managed to melt in my mouth like fresh snow on a floor from boots in a warm cottage. In the end the final tally was four plates; two lunch, two desserts, and one giant stomach ache in the end.

Currently as I am typing away at ten o'clock on this chilly evening, the pain from all of this eating is beginning to subside. Because of this feeling of relief I am able to take a moment to reflect on the past few days in Suncheon and recall with a sense of pride that I was able to enjoy a Christmas holiday filled with joy, friendship, cheer, a little wine adding some cheer assistance, and an amazingly large feast that was quite favorable to the taste buds. Additionally, something else that I think I experienced for the first time in a long time is that I didn't feel any inclination to buy any presents. This has been the first time, I enjoyed Christmas without buying or receiving a single present! In spite of not receiving a 'Red Ryder BB Gun,' this Christmas was a grand experience.

As a majority of Koreans don't really celebrate Christmas the way we western consumers do, I didn't feel compelled to make a list of all of those creatures that end up on the gift receiving end of my life every December. Instead of gift buying here, I simply burned a few Cd's for folks to give them a taste of my own holiday taste, then I simply donned a Santa Hat and became Jolly for a week. I must say, that I have been having a fabulous time this holiday. This past week at school we have been making Christmas cards, playing games, and rocking out to 'Ultra Lounge Christmas Classics.' Although Christmas is a multi-million dollar economy boosting holiday, I was just as happy giving the consumer life a skip. The only consumption I was happy to partake in was the stomach filling sort.

That's not to say that Koreans don't avoid Christmas. The neon lights here are blinding, the decorations are ubiquitous, the in-store Christmas carols are omnipresent, and Frosty, Rudolph, Santa and his gang of characters are in full force here. It's still a national holiday, which most Christians celebrate. As not all Koreans are Christan, a majority of Koreans don't really celebrate the holiday like most of us do when it comes to gift giving. Therefore there isn't that social pressure of feeling an obligation to buy presents for people.

Unfortunately I have noticed an increase in Christmas buzz this year around The ROK and in light of this it seems that Christmas related things have been much more convenient to find. There was only one or two shops that had Christmas cards last year. However, you can find in numerous shops around downtown where you can not only find cards, but other Christmas accessories like mugs, plates, stuffed animals hats, and other creations. You can even find shops with trees-plastic of course. Therefore I guess it's just a matter of time before the notion of feeling compulsed to buy gifts becomes a way of life here too. As Koreans develop quickly, it will almost certainly be a way of life here too. Regardless, I had a joyful, food centered Christmas with a few friends that was quite memorable. I hope you did too. Merry Christmas!

Up For the Challenge Part 2

There are two words in the English language that have left me befuddled today when it came to noting the difference between the pair. The words are; ubiquitous, and quintessential. I get the gist. I not a genius, but I can use a dictionary. The former meaning being everywhere at the same time, while the later means a perfect example of something. That's fine, but in the context of the main idea of what I wish to expound upon in this anecdote involves a food that is a little bit of both of that pair of wonderfully sounding words. It's ubiquitous because; well it's everywhere that's for sure. It's at the market, at school, on the street, at home-in fact you would be hard up to find a location in which it didn't turn up. That's ubiquitous! Now the thing which I am writing about is also a perfect example of what we eat in Korea-it's very quintessential. It's the same food-stuff that I've nearly consumed twice daily in the last couple of years-give or take a few days. It's the same edible substance that would generate many negative comments in the school cafeteria if your tray didn't have it. It's also the same fare that is not only served up in a plethora of main dishes, but it's also served with EVERY Korean meal as a side dish you partake in. Actually, I can feel it in my stomach at this moment after my evening feed. For those of you who aren't living in Korea, I'll help you. That food is Kimchi. Yes, it's the ubiquitous and the quintessential thing here. I like to call it 'quintiquous!'

Anyway, for those of you who haven't had the grace of good fortune to sample this little delicacy, then I guess a short description is imperative. It's essentially spicy, fermented cabbage. Depending on the region of the country various ingredients are mixed with the leaves and then stored in a large pot for several months. The usual assortment of things that comprise kimchi are: cabbage, salt, red chili pepper, anchovies, and garlic. The Kimchi is then often used to make into a stew and to be served cold on the side with your meal.

That being said; When I came to Korea I should note I was a little intimidated by the exotic redness and distinct peppery, fermented taste. It took me a few sittings to get accustomed to eating it, and even a few more to develop a fondness for it. As of now I eat it every day. My favorite is Kimchi Jigae, which is a spicy soup with Kimchi, Tofu, and Pork. If I am feeling a little daring I'll devour a bowl of 'Chamchi Jigae,' which is the same but with tuna. However, I also enjoy it ala carte! I relish using the kimchi on the side to mix with my rice. That way I am able to curb the spiciness a little and enjoy the somewhat bland rice more. It's a win win!

Historically Kimchi isn't a new development either. I think chronologically it's technically older than Jesus. As far back as 2600 years ago a report was found in a Chinese text of a mysterious thing called 'Ji,' which pre-dated the later translation, which was later called 'Chimchae,' which meant 'soaked vegetables.' Later it linguistically evolved into what is today's Kimchi. Also, Kimchi used to be quite spice less. It wasn't until about 8 hundred years ago when the original method of soaking cabbage with salt water morphed into a method of preparing the spicier ingredients that give Kimchi it's notable flavor. That notable flavor of course is on the tip of every creatures tongue in curious place.

As I was writing last week, I noted that some individuals made themselves famous by eating copious amounts of McDonald's hamburgers and nuggets on a daily basis and then living to tell the tale; albeit barely. Well, for your information, I have been eating more than copious amounts of Kimchi here on a daily basis and I just want to inform you my dear reader that I am not only living, breathing, and quite contentedly typing away right now, I am in fact probably much healthier than those unfortunate souls who felt compelled to partake in their greasy challenge. I think they should consider eating kimchi every day for a while. At least it'll be healthier. That is because Kimchi is laden with vitamins. One serving has almost all of the required vitamin c you need for a day. It also has four or five other essential vitamins and nutrients (including a few from the a-z vitamin list that I don't really understand which vitamin does what.)

So as I mentioned earlier eating kimchi at first might be a bit daunting because of it's spiciness, however one must admit that it's easy to get an acquired penchant for this tasty vegetable. Since it's tasty for most of us-so tasty in fact that we eat it every single day with full compliance and little struggle, and since it's so darn healthy, it's hard to argue that kimchi is a bad thing. Since my blog is about good things in Korea, why not write about it? Also remember that it's ubiquitous, so when someone is taking your photo here, remember to say 'Kimchi!'

Up for the Challenge Part1

Teaching at a public high school in Korea can be a breezy undertaking. Despite the fact that many foreign teachers are blessed with the daunting task of entertaining, and having to elicit English speech from close to a thousand noisy, often uninterested students weekly, it must be noted that we only have to teach twenty hours a week. Yes, in America, we tend to be captivated by the stories of the prodigious ability of Korean students in the classroom. After living here I must attest that most of that is true, however these Koreans are still students. In my case High School students. So it would only be logical to accept that even Korean students like to be boisterous and turn a deaf ear to their patient American teacher from time to time. It can be disconcerting at times. Although in my opinion, the perks one receives as a high school teacher in Korea heavily outweigh the negatives. At least in my case-especially on Fridays. Since I only have two classes on Fridays, I essentially have an entire day to myself.

If you are reading this in your own nation thinking: "well, I could use an extra day to tidy up around here." Or maybe:"I really want to have more time to sit in a coffee shop and read this highly captivating book I was just given by my friend who said it was unputdownable." Then you are not me! As I am already afforded a light day every week, I have the luxury to spend it idly reading, going to the bank, playing a little guitar, sending postcards to long lost overworked friends, searching for movie times, or even writing in this blog. Whereas my situation two years ago in America was quite different. I actually had to WORK for eight hours. These days I am bestowed with a nice opportunity to ease into the weekend.

Yesterday, in fact was Friday and I must say that I took full advantage of my light working duties to partake in one of my favorite activities; reading. Actually, on Thursday a friend loaned me a book that was rumored to be a good read so I snatched it from him and deposited it in my bag for Friday. I had no intentions of making Friday a reading day, but sometimes once I start something, it's difficult for me to finish. Anyway, the book in question was Chuck Klosterman's IV, which is an unedited creation of interviews with famous people. However, my short description is just to give you the basic idea of the book. What's interesting is not really the concept of the book itself, but the nexus of it is the fact that the interviewer is able to speak to such a diverse sweep of preeminent, big cheeses. He had em' all from Plant, to Brittney.

Anyway, one article that I found curious was Mr. Klosterman's brave undertaking of trying to survive for an entire week on mere diet of McDonald's Chicken Nuggets. Surprisingly he lived to write about it. That was back in 1996, and since he did in fact live to tell his brave tale, he was also fortunate to interview later the gentleman who created Super Size Me. Super Size Me of course is the documentary about the guy who only eats McDonald's for 30 days. Unlike Klosterman, he was afforded the luxury of eating french fries and burgers. However, he ate McDonald's for an entire month! That's a lot of burgers, fries and cokes!

So, as I was reading about McDonald's on my relaxing Friday, I suddenly had the urge to take a little field trip away from school. Around one o'clock yesterday, I sauntered outside, jumped on the 77 bus and traveled five minutes to old downtown to the ubiquitous golden arches. I hadn't sampled their greasy, bland, boxy tasting food for a while, so something inside of me made me compelled to partake in a McDonald's binge. I just had a sudden calling. Reading does that to me sometimes. Especially reading about food. For example; if anyone reads Haruki Murakami novels, they know that writer uses spaghetti a lot in his stories. Every time I read Murakami I crave spaghetti, and only spaghetti. So now here I was at McDonald's with a Shanghai Spicy Chicken Sandwich, a spicy chicken burrito thing, fries, and a Coke right in front of me. It was a quiet, but ambitious challenge, and I rose to the challenge and devoured the food in under five minutes. I was hungry.

Anyway, despite many human's distaste of McDonald's, I have to say if you don't partake in these greasy adventures on a rare occasion, then it is you who is missing out. Although, as I was pondering those brave writers and filmmakers who rose to macho challenges of eating one thing for a particular period of time, I naturally had to think of all the brave, unnoticed souls who curiously eat the same thing in Korea every day and never seem to complain. That food of course is Kimchi. Since I was eating McDonald's, I told myself that I hadn't eaten Kimchi yet this day.

The striking thing is that I can't remember a day in Korea, where I didn't eat it. What was even more unsettling is that I had already made plans to eat pizza with some friends for dinner at Mr. Songs Pizza in a Cup, and he didn't serve Kimchi on the side; just pickles. Therefore, I was looking at my first kimchiless day in Korea. Here I was on a quiet Friday, satisfied from a rare fast food fill, about to return to a pleasant read in a coffee shop. That's how Fridays are for me; pleasant. However, it was strange to discover that I wouldn't eat Kimchi for a day. I actually like kimchi. Since I enjoy sampling it, and it is one of most ubiquitous things in Korea, I think I will take a pause for today and write a short tribute to it next time. It's time for lunch, I'm thinking Korean food today.

A Bigger Fish

For those who haven't been acquainted with me socially as a foreigner living in Suncehon would be quite taken aback by some of the nicknames that are thrown at me by basic default. At least it surprises me. Since I have a bass guitar, which no one else in Suncheon really does, I go by 'Music Dan.' Also I guess not many other people are from the San Francisco Bay Area down in these parts, therefore it seems that I have been labeled by some as 'San Fran Dan,' or just 'San Fran' for short.

The fact that I have never really lived in San Francisco is a detail that is easily overlooked or not seriously regarded as an imperative requirement for my title of resident San Franciscan. I am actually from a small town called Castro Valley, which is about 35 kilometers from downtown San Francisco. Anyway, despite my Californian breeziness, and knowledge of the San Francisco Bay Area, it must be noted that those things did nothing for me in San Francisco. Unfortunately I was just some guy named Dan, who wasn't interesting in San Francisco's eyes. There is nothing wrong with normalcy, but it's just so much more gratifying to come to Korea and to be regarded as diplomat from a place that is so wonderful.

I think it's a good thing too. I enjoy talking about my home and offering advice on places to visit and making recommendations on things to do and see. Because of my interest of making San Francisco seem attractive to Koreans and foreign residents alike, I volunteered for the UNESCO Cross Cultural Awareness Program in Jeollanamdo Province. I think it's quite a rewarding opportunity to go to schools and other venues to give brief but informative presentations about one's homeland. I have been doing this for about a year now, and I have to say that it's been quite an amazing experience.

What's compelling for me is the fact that I am afforded some opportunities to be regarded as someone to be counted on. Maybe that sounds odd, but the fact that I have spent most of my life swimming upstream as a small fish fighting to be a person who does have some experience and some things to share with the world, makes me feel like a slightly bigger fish for a change. For me it has been wonderful to come to Korea and be inaugurated as 'San Fran Dan,' to speak on behalf of such a majestic place. I even get to showcase my musical skills as well, since at the end of the presentation I usually give a short American musical demonstration. So in short I could also be called 'San Fran Music Dan.' However, just Dan will suit me just fine. It's nice to feel important for a change.

I think in life we all want to leave footprints. Speaking on behalf of myself at least, I want to exist in a place where my actions are noticed from time to time, while the results of those actions leave a positive impression with whoever happens to cast a passing glance or attentive ear. The fact that I was graced with the opportunity to act as sort of a cultural diplomat in Korea has been a endearing experience. The fact that it's so convenient for many of us foreign characters living here to partake in these types of programs makes it even more appealing to live here.

Another Rock Turned Up!

I admit that I am not by any means vertically challenged, although it must be dully noted that my height doesn't necessarily exceed that of someone of a more elevated nature. If you tested the height of a dutch male, a penguin, and myself I would undoubtedly measure in at second place slightly ahead of the cuter Arctic waddler. Because of my modest height, I confess that growing up afforded me few advantages when playing sports. Despite my best efforts to play baseball, a little basketball, some tennis, and even a semester of ultimate Frisbee, I'll admit that my height didn't play any advantage in terms of ability. In fact in retrospect, in my less than average stature, my inclination to even involve myself in athletic endeavors seemed to prove a giant miscalculation on my part.

That all changed last May. Despite the fact that I have been an abject failure at most team sports, I never actually really gave soccer a shot. Since I am such a like able fellow, I get on quite well with the players of the local foreigner soccer team in Suncheon. The Suncehon Soccer club, or SIFC; for Sunchoen International Football Club, let me come out to one of their games last May. I played for an entire half, and by the end it was obvious that I was as hopeless as I was at any other sport. During that inaugural match the players on my own team began shouting at me like I was an enemy. According to them I couldn't pass, I couldn't shoot; apparently I couldn't even touch the ball correctly. However, after the game I was by some great fortune invited to come to practices. Eventually I managed to handle myself a bit better. In the end, I have put in a lot of hard work, which I have learned is 90 percent to achieving anything. Although, I actually feel that my limited tallness has given me an advantage that with hard work can make me into a decent player. If you don't believe me, look at Wayne Rooney, or Lionel Messi! Shorter people usually make better soccer players because of their lower center of gravity and are able to control the ball more efficiently.

Because of my hard work I am now starting to slowly feel like a contributor to the team instead of being the teams Achilles heel. Please understand that this is no easy feat to achieve for anyone; especially by myself in such a minimal amount of time. Soccer isn't exactly the 'girls' sport many Americans claim. If you disagree, try sprinting up and down a football field for 90 minutes only to stop at 1 minute intervals to slide tackle someone running into you. It isn't fishing. Regardless, what I want to share with you is the tremendous sunny weekend I had this weekend past in the city of Ulsan at an international soccer tournament.

Ulsan is a city that is practically hidden by the shadows of gigantic Busan. Busan is a mega city with beaches and nightife that can contend with many formidable international destinations, so it's no surprise that not many people visit Ulsan. What is surprising though, is that Ulsan has over a million residents. It's practically the size of Gwangju. Additionally, it's a pretty interesting town to boot! Shame on you Lonely Planet for not even including it in your book.

Fortunately, I had the opportunity to take a couple of days to explore a bit. The main part of the city is divided by a giant river, which has a plethora of parks lining the banks. There is an overabundance of verdant trees and new soccer fields, which is a rare treat for a foreigner living in Suncheon. Also on each side of the river there are several pockets of that ubiquitous downtown 'buzz' that Korea is so famous for. There are many places to meander during the day, pose for photos, have lunch shop and enjoy the scenery. Additionally, that buzz continues into the night a large selection of colorful downtown pedestrian zones, restaurants, cafes, and bars that will put a smile on even the hardest to satisfy. What is especially nice, is that I was completely surprised by this. I had no idea that I would be visiting such an inviting city. It just goes to show that no matter how long you live in a place, that there is always another rock to turn up.

The soccer tournament was a success too of course. We won our first match, then fought hard to reach the quarter finals. We lost, but you need to understand our team is from a city of less than half a million. Suncheon is half the size of Ulsan. We aren't even a shadow of Gwangju, additionally we are even too small to be a metaphorical little brother. We are like a grandchild to mighty Gwangju. This being said, I think you can appreciate the success we've accomplished after competing with teams from the ranks of Busan, Daegu, Gwangju and Ulsan. Regardless of winning or losing though, what is important is that we could stand tall in a city with a group of guys from a low population, and still enjoy ourselves in a surprisingly big and exciting town.

Memories on a Monday

As I crawled out of bed on this frosty November Monday morning I hit the snooze button and curled back into my blankets like an arm in a sling and fell right back into my slumber for another eight minutes. Which is the same feat I later managed to accomplish another four times before succumbing to the inevitable Monday obligatory drudgery of getting dressed and hurrying to work. Despite my trademark cold morning gruff behavior I at least admit that the view from my apartment this morning was especially sunny and clear. In the distance beyond downtown Suncheon I briefly took peek a the clear blue region known as Suncehon Bay, which lies just eight kilometers from Suncheon.

As it is a seasonably chilly Monday, and as most Mondays will continue in this fashion for several months, I am compelled to reminisce about a day spent hiking in late spring around Suncheon Bay and Eco Park. As I have mentioned beforehand, it's conveniently located about eight kilometers from downtown Suncheon. There are several buses that reach the park, however a quicker option would be to just hop in a cab, which only costs between eight and ten thousand won. Once you arrive at the foot of the park, you will be inundated with tall grasslands at a trail head that winds for a kilometer or so through a marshy mudflat area. After advancing along the trail a bit, the mudflat becomes more sea like and you can get a glimpse of some tour boats that head out towards the Korean Strait. Additionally, In this interesting pocket of a swampy sea border you can also catch a glimpse of many interesting migratory birds in flight.

After a kilometer or two the trail begins to push upward. Since me and my sporty girlfriend welcomed the challenge, we continued up for a while. We didn't expect too much in terms of a steep hike, but regardless this is exactly what we were given. As the grade increased it seemed both of us were feeling exceedingly brave with each marching step we managed. From the top the reward paid off in spades. For example, On one hand the flatter, more manageable part of the path, there are a surplus of visitors. However, with each passing step up there seems to be a gradual decrease of humans, which makes the day seem far more peaceful. Also, as many panoramic views from Korea are stunning, the view from above of Suncheon Bay was no exception. There is something about the landscape in this country that is truly unique.

As we stopped for a couple of snapshots and a rest, I really began to wonder what is it about this landscape that I really hold with such a high regard. I guess the main reason is the fact that there are so many mountains that are so close to the sea. They are in their own rights impressive enough. The sea and mountains are equally impressive natural beauties that posses the power to inspire or pacify a great deal of us; not to mention an American living in Korea. What's especially nice about Korea is that you have so many areas of sea and mountain space together. In addition to Suncheon Bay, locally there are the vast coastal areas around Gwanyang, Yeosu, and Nokdong. These areas all offer a picturesque blend of mountain and sea panoramics.

So as I lazily gaze out of my eighteenth story window on this frosty November morning past the city towards the East Sea, while struggling to find a clean shirt, and a useable coffee cup, I tell myself that if I didn't have to drag myself to work today I could do a lot of exploring out in that vast distance beyond. Since I am not a friend of the colder climates, I would object from venturing far today though. However, just to imagine doing it makes me feel warmer inside, which is a good thing for a cold day, isn't it? Because of this, in the spirit of the ever decreasing climate temperatures I reckon I will make a similar posting next week, so stay tuned.

A Monthly Gathering

Last Saturday was one of the more anticipated days for me as a foreigner in South Korea. I have been practicing the mentally exhausting and physically draining sport of Taekwondo for over a year now, and I was finally given the opportunity to showcase my kicks and forms for my official black belt test. I had trained with a reasonably disciplined work ethic, and in the end I think it paid off. Since I am prone to give up on things prematurely I have to admit I am especially pleased to have accomplished something requiring effort. Moreover a black belt with my name in English and Korean would look cool on the mantelpiece.

As I worked diligently for the test, I had little difficulty. Regardless, I was surprised on how fast the actual test flew by anyway. You see, it wasn't just me going for a belt this Saturday. This was the monthly testing in Suncheon, which simply meant that it was an entire day affair with close to five hundred other testers including myself. The candidates for belts were led up in groups of ten to swiftly go through a couple of forms, then with little time to waste were whisked across the floor of the stadium to do some kicks and sparring. After this, it was time for the next group. This was the way it went for the entire day.

On one side you are afforded a glimpse on just how popular the sport is in Korea. Suncheon isn't a small city by Korean comparisons, but there sure were a lot of children and adults who piled into Palma Gym to test for their belt. Imagine 500 students testing for a black belt every month. That's a lot of black belts in Suncheon. Suncheon has given itself the nickname as 'The City of Beautiful People,' however it could have been more appropriately coined: 'The City of Black Belts, So Watch Out!'

What was even more interesting, was the atmosphere inside. Imagine going into a small, crowded arena and seeing a large congregation of five hundred strong punching, kicking, kyeoping(spell check,) stretching, and practicing. Also imagine fitting parents, grandparents, brothers, sisters, girlfriends and boyfriends with cameras as well. Korea can be a cozy place, and last Saturday was no exception.

As the day wore on, I was getting nervous. You see, including myself, there were only three foreigners testing. That meant that many eyes would fall upon us as we went through our routine. However, as the adults tested later, and most of the parents and children had departed, we managed to test in relative quietness. Despite that, there were more than a few curious onlookers to see how the 'waygook' would manage. The crowd who did watch us, was actually really supportive, which I found gratifying. As a foreigner in Korea you have to adjust yourself to be able to deal with a large amount of attention. Sometimes though, like on Saturday, it was a joy to be able to show off my kicks for curious onlookers. So if you find yourself with nothing to do next month, head over to Palma Gym in Suncheon and check out a black belt test.