Do March Showers Bring April Flowers?

There's an old cliche back home that April showers bring May flowers. Honestly, I never paid much attention to the expression, mostly because of the fact that I had never been much of a flower person. If you said April showers brings May happy hours, or April showers increases solar power, then I would've shown more appreciation of the fact that a colder and wetter April invites a warmer May.

I think there a couple of things I must state here. First, back home the nature of the San Francisco Bay Area is stunning in its own right, however it isn't really famous specifically for flowers. We have stunning ocean views with crashing waves, towering pine and sequoia trees, jagged mountains, and almost any other imaginable natural setting-yet I can't tell you any place you can go to see beautiful flowers. The second thing, is that I am a typical man. Because of my manliness, I think that I have just assumed that I wouldn't appreciate flowers or anything related to the blossoming world in the springtime. I have always thought of flowers in the spring as a 'girly' interest. I have therefore closed myself off from the aesthetic realm of the power of flower for a large portion of my life.

That all changed when I came to Korea a couple of years ago and noticed the breathtaking scenery of the cherry blossoms in April. It is a beautiful world we live in, and one of the things that definitely contributes to that beauty without a doubt are the lucid white cherry blossoms surrounding cities and the countryside. Additionally, as an added bonus the blossoms come out a bit earlier than one would normally expect. Despite the old notion of an April shower, here we are greeted with Spring bloom almost a full month earlier. The temperatures are still quite breezy and a little uninviting, but not in a way that will keep one indoors. All one needs is a free day, a light jacket, and a 1000 won to hop on a bus to a local temple to take a few snapshots of the hundreds of trees lining the grounds in the afternoon.

Which is what I did last Sunday with my friend Eric. Living in Suncheon in Jellonamdo has a couple of temples both within an hour by the city bus. The easiest to reach is Seonamsa, which can be taken directly from the train station on bus 1 for 1000 won. Once we arrived we quickly bypassed the other tourists piling off of the tour buses and made our way to the temple itself up the hill behind the bus stop. The temple is quite small itself, but the highlight is in fact the sheer beauty of the blossoms popping out of the trees in every direction of the temple.

After firing off about a hundred pictures, we both decided to give our lazy feet a rest and have an ice cream from a souvenir shop. Looking at my watch I had noticed that the month was still actually March. Which meant that, March flowers had already sprung! I guess in Korea March Showers bring just March flowers. There was no waiting or anticipation for anything of the like! The flowers just Sprung like Spring tends to do here. How's that for Korean productivity!

I'll Admit It, I'm Addicted!

I have been sick for six days now. The worst is behind me, but for most of this week I have been annoyed by the fact that I have been having to rely on an arsenal of orange juice, cold medicine, copious amounts of green tea, and bed rest. Being sick is the worst, and I have the recent unpredictable weather to thank for that. Thanks weather!

Saturday seemed innocuous enough. Clear, hopeful skies, and a warm breeze blowing on the soccer pitch before our inaugural game of the season against Mr. Kim's Posco team. The weather; unlike our final match result actually showed favorable conditions. The warm air mixed with running around on the soccer pitch made me quite sweaty. After our actual match, me and some of the teammates decided to chance upon seeing a local K-league match. The Gwanyang Chunnam Dragons play in the same city next to Suncheon where we had our own SIFC match, so it was quite convenient to check out the match. If you don't know this, Korean soccer is actually quite good. If you compare it to the MLS in the states I think that the level of play is quite similar-I would probably even put my money on the K-League teams in taking down the MLS teams(minus Beckham and Landon Donovan).

Since the weather was spring-like, It in fact so nice, I didn't' even realise it would be possible to get sick after cooling down in my post match condition. Therefore I happily jumped in a cab with four other teammates and made the crosstown jaunt to the stadium. Upon arriving, we were greeted by numerous food stands offering up Chinese dumplings, squid, BBQ chicken, beer, and other snacks. Since we had time to kill before the match we found a picnic table outside and sampled a little of everything. Some of us even made it to the souvenir stand and procured some scarves and bandannas to show our dragon 'San Diego Charger colored' gold and yellow.

What is interesting was how cheap everything happened to be. For example our tickets were only 7000 won! To compare; if you want to see the San Jose Earthquakes next week, you will pay a MINIMUM of 35.00$! It's true people in San Jose make about twice as much, but you can still say that the relative difference is double. Yet, thirty-five dollars is the CHEAPEST seat in San Jose. If you go to a Dragons game, you can sit anywhere on the pitch and catch the action as up close as you want.

Once inside, as soon as the match started I started to feel like there was a change in the weather. The morning sun, was soon replaced by a grey cover that was becoming darker as the first half wore on. Regardless, the energy of the small crowd kept us all going till the end of the match, which ended in a 1-1 draw against the Incheon team. Once the match ended, the rain immediately started to pound the seats in the stadium, and we were forced to exit. What was nice however, is the free shuttle buses to Suncheon right outside the gates.

The mix of playing soccer on Saturday and sweating, and cooling down all afternoon, while the rain began pelting my under dressed body is what gave me the wonderfully annoying cold I now have. Regardless, I left that afternoon with the feeling that I have been missing something since I've been in Korea. I really enjoyed the soccer match, and I was so gratified to find out that there was a match going on Wednesday as well. So after one match I had become addicted, so I had to satisfy my addiction last night. So yesterday I saw my second K-league soccer match in six days.

There were no chance of clouds, or rain. That's because there was a cold, crisp, bitter wind cracking like a whip. Luckily, I procured a scarf at the souvenir stand and had some cheap coffee to warm my hands as I shouted on the Brazilian striker as he scored 2 goals and led the Dragons to their miraculous extra time win over the Taegu team last night 3-2 for their first win of the season. It didn't make me any healthier, but it didn't matter. I'm looking forward to the next match on April 18Th!

What You Wouldn't Expect!

I wouldn't consider myself a wise person; No way! The word sage doesn't immediately come to mind when describing myself. There is no advice in the realms of human interactions, financial matters, diplomacy, love etc. that I could even possibly imagine to impart to you dear reader. I have have however always considered myself a curious person.

This notion could even be backed up by stating that first of all; I studied philosophy. It was my curiosity about the big 'what, and why' questions that served as my reason to study this subject. It was a remarkable experience as well. However, no questions were ever answered. Seven years later sitting in front of my trusty IBM Thinkpard and looking back at my existence I can in fact confidently tell you another reason for being an inquisitive fellow is the simple fact that I have spent most of this last decade living in other countries. I guess many folks back home would probably regard me as the token 'expat guy,' or something similar in this nature. Regardless, I believe most of us 'expat guys' normally have some kind of strange inert sense of curiosity about the world, which transcends the more 'mundane' ideals that most people adhere to.

Regardless, As I am not a wise person, I shouldn't be in any position to expound on the nature of curiosity and wisdom to anyone. However, one piece of wisdom that I would like to impart to you is only three words. These three words are only intended for people living in Korea, or for the folks who are maybe considering making a jaunt over here in the not too distant future. So without delay here are three essential words: look both ways!

There is a statistic floating around among foreigners from a book that was published somewhere

at some time in the not too distant past, which states that the Korean roads are one of the most dangerous in the world. I have read some information on the subject, but I am unable to draw up any official statistics regarding the current road situation here. Despite this, I will only tell you to watch out if you are on foot. So even if it can be a bit dangerous, if you listen to the only wisdom I will ever give you ever, which is those three words, then you WILL be fine!

There is something else though about Korea that I quite like. In light of the previous warning that has been loosely issued, I have to say it is also a bit ironic. If you come here you will also quickly notice how many streets are somewhat created for pedestrians. Even in Suncheon there are several districts that are 'mostly,' pedestrian type zones with shops and restaurants blazing with their full neon signs nearly twenty four-seven. Of course there are cars buzzing about virtually everywhere, there are still a great number of areas to meander, poke around, shop and exercise your legs. There are the market streets with fish mongers, fruit and vegetable sellers, clothing vendors, fast foot stands, and even the occasional tarrot card readers can be discovered around town. One could spend a leisurely Sunday poking around sports stores, cafes, clothing shops, or sample many types of interesting, and amazingly cheap street food.

Even in ever moving, frantically busy Seoul there an uncountable number of these enjoyable semi-walking areas; Myongdong, Itaewon, Dongdaemun, Insadong (which is a wonderful area to check out traditional Korean items,) Hyeondae, and Sinchon are all areas that cater to the masses of street travelers. In fact, since the Subway in Seoul is so efficient, it must be said that traveling by foot is bar none the far the best way to travel in Seoul.

So as an unwise person, I can only offer one piece of Advice; in Korea look both ways! The roads are a bit chaotic, and for those used to the rigid traffic laws in North America might feel a bit uncomfortable when arriving here. I am no Aesop, but please take care and look both ways. Also, more importantly; if you come here I guess you could also remember the words written in the great book entitled 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' : 'Don't Panic!' Maybe that's wiser!

No Butts About it!

As I have been residing in this curious peninsula for nearly the last two years, I have been sharing some of my interesting experiences with you as well as making note of all the convivial places I have had the good fortune of visiting. There are many places to visit here as well as fascinating places to see. What is ironic about this is the fact that I have waited so long to see one of the best places in Korea. This place is Busan; more importantly Hayundai Beach!

Busan is about two hours by bus north of Suncheon, with a lively population pushing four million. It hosts one of the largest ports in the world, as well as being the pre-eminent beach to visit for all young Koreans during the month of August, where close to half a million swimming suit and rubber raft clad summer beach goers visit. There is also a famous aquarium housing a variety of displays from giant fish tanks, toothy sharks, penguins and even a pool of cute otters. Thankfully it was only February, and since I managed to escape town on a sunny Saturday, I decided to make the short journey to Busan to see the beach and the aquarium for the day.

Leaving Suncehon at nine am gave me ample time to cruise into the bus station(which is quite far from the beach.) After a punishing fifteen or twenty subway stops, I managed to stagger out of the station on the quiet road that leads directly to Hayundai beach. Just five minutes down the road is the beach, which was a breathtaking sunny day with families, students, and foreigners alike strolling along the sand while welcoming the soon approaching spring. There wasn't too many people, but just enough to give me the notion that I wasn't the only one to make it a beach weekend. I felt like I was back home in California walking along Santa Cruz Beach for the first time after a wet winter. I was so excited I felt obliged grab my camera and fire off a few snap shots. Sadly after coming up empty reaching for my camera in my backpack, I was forced to purchase a low quality box camera from a souvenir stand on the beach (you will see from my slide show at the end of this little anecdote just how low quality the photos came out.)

Anyway, after soaking up a few rays, I walked back up the road and negotiate accommodation at one of the spartan motels in the area. Since it was early, I decided to shower and clean myself up a bit to look more presentable when I visited the aquarium on the beach. The aquarium was curiously crowded, until it dawned on me that it was Saturday afternoon, and since Saturday afternoon is family day in Korea, I realized that it was going to be a cozy aquarium visit on this day. Pushing my way downstairs to the first level I found some lively penguins swimming and hanging out, which was quite entertaining despite having to push through the mass population of kids wanting to touch everything. Further along, the otter pool was even more crowded since it was feeding time and all the visitors were clamouring to see the cute little furry guys feeding. I took this overcrowded feeding time as an opportunity to see the giant shark tank, where the intimidating sharks swim right up to the window, where you can actually stare them down, which I did. I was just lucky the glass was unbreakable.

After about an hour or so of aquarium exploring, I headed back out into the sun and walked along the beach and up through some fish markets and took in the fishy, beach aroma that is typical of the sea. Down along the beach is a small temple and a interesting mermaid stature. As dusk approached I hiked around the bend further where a small quiet cove with fishing boats and a small lookout where you can see a beautiful bridge that looks quite breathtaking at night. I can only relate it to seeing the San Francisco Bay Bridge at night. Unfortunately my wonderful low quality box camera wasn't able to develop anything at night, so I have no pictures to prove how breathtaking the view was.

After my little day at the beach, I decided to try out an Indian restaurant that everyone in Suncheon unanimously regarded(despite the high prices,) as the best place to dine. In my opinion it wasn't just the best meal I had ever had in Busan, but the best non-Korean meal I had ever had in Korea. If you go, don't be stingy and get the Samosa appetizers with your meal, because you won't be disappointed. Anyway; there are no butts about it, if you want a enjoyable beach experience for a day make no haste and come to Busan.

A Glimpse of the Past!

Back home growing up I think I experienced the same folklore that most people of my generation encountered. The familiar phrase 'when I was your age,' was an expression duly noted to myself on many occasions. My father for example never shied away from an opportunity to tell me as a child that when he 'was my age'(I was around twelve at the time,) he was forced to pick up rocks every Saturday for a nickel . Even to this day I am not sure how to interpret this. As I kid I would usually roll my eyes and divert my attention towards the nearest window, however these days I would probably ask him why didn't he just call in sick or something? A nickel might have been a heck of a lot more back in 'those days,' but regardless, nobody picks up rocks anymore!

I think this is similar to the grandfather's cliche of walking in the snow to school; uphill, both ways, with out shoes, or a jacket to boot! The upshot to all of this is that many people believe that our generation is much different in the fact that life has become much more convenient for us. With convenience we can take a bus to school, and do less backbreaking work than scooping up rocks with our hands. With this convenience we humans can customize our lives to suit our personalities by basically doing whatever we want. Because of modernization, we are able to go where we want and survive just about anywhere quite easily. Gone are the days of having walk to school and sustain yourself on your own plot of land.

The irony of course is that humans did survive by sustaining themselves on their own land for many more generations than we have been living in modern mechanized times today. Many of us have flown the coop and will continue to do for some time, therefore living a simple, self-sustaining life in one's hometown will be a thing of the past-or already is a thing of the past. Despite this, living in Korea offers a unique glimpse of former times. This is because there are several folk villages scattered throughout the region, and what's especially nice about these villages is that they are more than open air museums they are in some respect also working, living, surviving villages.

It was also with my good fortune that I am residing less than twenty kilometers from one a famous place called Nagan Folk Village. It's nestled in a valley between two mountains, and is an area covering approximately two or three kilometers. The village is bordered with a surrounding wall, while the inside is covered by thatched roof houses. It was formerly a fortress during the Choson Period to protect themselves from the Japanese. Within the village today many residents are actually living in many of the houses (the roofs are thatched with rice grains, which need to be replaced annually.) There is a ceramics house where the proprietor is diligently creating mugs, plates, and other wares for tourists. There is also an inn where on can sleep.

There are other museum like pieces as well; for example the many totem poles surrounding the site represent many beliefs and wishes, there is an old administrative building recreating feudal times, as well as an entrance area and a selection of souvenir shops scattering throughout the village. So it won't appear as a hundred percent authentic working village, although it is pretty impressive for these modern times. I think Koreans in general believe that home is where the heart is so it is vital for them to maintain these cultural gems. As a visitor I appreciate the fact that at least we can see a part of the past, even if it's only a glimpse.

My visit ended at a village eatery with my cheerful and amusing guide Mr. Che buying me gal guk su(noodle soup with clams,) which was accompanied with a bottle of village made rice wine to drink. After a couple glasses of the sweet, slightly starchy wine, we ventured back to the modern world called Suncehon. Back in Suncheon I found myself immediately thrust back into modern life ordering a latte to wake myself up in TomnTom's hastily forgetting how lucky I am to live in such convenient times.

Riding the Korean Rails

There are certain types of travelers. The most common and even more importantly more successful travelers are the types who manage to plan effectively by doing proper research, and by doing things to maximize their time while spent traveling. The basic idea is that one has only a limited amount of time in a chosen place, therefore one would feel obliged to organize their trip as effectively as possible. I unfortunately usually fall into another category of travelers who don't plan effectively. Because of this I am sure there are many things I have missed during my time spent on this planet. The reason for this is because if I am traveling, I tend to feel like I shouldn't pay attention to a strict timetable. My entire life seems like a timetable, so if I am on a vacation why should I worry about time?

I only say this because there are a couple of great ways to get around Korea. The fastest and most effective way to shuttle yourself from town to town is of course by bus in Korea. Korean buses are some of the most comfortable and affordable buses in the world. In addition as a bonus they are amazingly frequent. When I traveled from Seoul to Suncheon last year, I was able to travel after midnight in just four hours to Suncheon. Without a doubt buses are a surefire effective way to get around in The Republic of Korea.

Despite this, I like to take the train. It's true; the train is a bit slower, has less departures, stops more, and even worse none of my foreign friends seem to take the train so I am always alone in this regard. What I want to impart to you though is that even though it might take as much as an entire hour more to roll into Seoul, the journey is abundantly more enjoyable when traveling. For those who don't have the burden of keeping to a regimented timetable, the train is a wonderful option to get around.

The amenities on a train are quite good to start; there is a small restaurant, with sandwiches, meals, drinks and snacks- there is even a small Internet cafe, and a few video games to boot. Also the windows are large and clean so you can enjoy the picturesque scenery while zipping through the country side. What is even nicer than the bus that you can always get up and stretch your legs and use the bathroom. Since buses only stop once, those with weaker bladders might find a train more convenient. Finally, for those traveling into Seoul will also find comfort that the trains come in right in the center of the city.

Despite the fact that most people will tell you that the buses in this country are better, I tend to enjoy the trains more. For me the journey itself to a destination is an important part of traveling. Although it can be viewed as a childish notion, I have to say then so be it. If it's childish to enjoy taking more time to reach a destination, then let the chips fall as they may, for I will keep doing my thing, because I am that kind of traveler.

The Iron Curtains Are Still Closed!

I have always been curious about North Korea. Maybe it's a part of my nature. The fact that a place can be so closed, mysterious, and mixed with an uncertain element of danger has compelled me recently to attempt to take a closer look. There are books, documentaries, articles and other forms of media which will portray life in North Korea; usually in a frightful, violent, Orwellian manner. I have seen many of these films and am currently reading an ambitious book called:'Under The Loving Care of Our Fatherly Leader,' by Bradley K. Martin. From what I have seen, I tend to believe a lot of that is true. In my opinion it's scary how one man(The Dear Leader,) can indoctrinate an entire society in believing that their people have great lives and the rest of the world is worse off-In spite of North Korea's food and electricity shortages, starvation, mandatory ten year military service requirements, and total media censorship.

Of course, these problems are among the most typically known to outsiders. Other individuals seem to think there prison camps, executions of deserters, and police checks to insure citizens have the right 'thinking.' To me it all sounds like a huge military dictatorship. Isn't that what it is anyway? Regardless of the aforementioned information, to me what is significant is that who really 'knows,' what goes on in north Korea? From what I believe it isn't the utopia that the previous dear leaders reiterate, however iron curtains really keep thinks hidden. To me the more a thing is hidden the more I want to uncover it.

Recently I wanted to visit North Korea. There are groups that arrange visits routinely from Beijing, however the cost is too dear. Too dear to contribute to the(sorry for the pun) Dear Leader's cause. About 2000 Euro for five days to be exact. For that fee you will get a guide/guard, a hotel room, and food. The guide is instructed to keep an eye on you at all times during the day-you can not roam freely in North Korea. Anyway, I'm saving my change for my potential graduate education soon, so I opted out of the Pyongyang experience. Instead I decided to take a day trip to Panmunjom settled in DMZ area between the two Korea's.

You can arrange from one of a plethora of tour companies in Seoul a day trip to Panmunjom and around the DMZ area for around sixty dollars-including lunch. The buses depart in the morning from Seoul to make the 60 or so kilometer journey north and then return around 3pm. The DMZ area is 155 kilometers long and four kilometers wide. It stretches two kilometers into South Korea, and the Same in North Korea. Panmunjom is right at the edge of the wide part of the DMZ poking into North Korea.

From there in my opinion was the highlight of the tour. There is a lookout where you can watch North Korean Soldiers watching you. As my camera targeted one soldier he immediately turned his binoculars in my direction. It was this little reflex that made me feel a bit that this wasn't a game for them, in spite of the fact that I was just a silly tourist.

As the tour continued we stopped at another lookout and saw Kijungdong, which is better known as Propaganda Village. This is a village built by North Koreans, which is supposedly completely vacated, but was built to appear as a attractive, desirable place to reside. Nestled in the center of the village is the massive ubiquitous flagpole, which is touted as the highest in the world. Other stops included; the introductory slide show showcasing the history of the region, The Bridge of No Return(which was were the PO W's returned to their native country,) and signing waivers acknowledging that the tour group was not liable for my shooting by pointing at North Koreans gestures.

Finally I had lunch with my group of fellow tourists(whom were all Japanese.) I was given my own bulgogi pot, while the others feasted together. It felt like another typical lunch as a foreigner traveling alone in Korea. Regardless, the food was good. After that I went back to Seoul and had a nap-which is the best way to end a good day. To conclude, it's true that I really didn't see 'much' about North Korea on this trip, however it did become apparent that Iron Curtain was still closed. What I wonder now though is if the curtains will eventually rust and deteriorate? What will happen then?

Please watch my slide show from this experience!