No Butts About it!

As I have been residing in this curious peninsula for nearly the last two years, I have been sharing some of my interesting experiences with you as well as making note of all the convivial places I have had the good fortune of visiting. There are many places to visit here as well as fascinating places to see. What is ironic about this is the fact that I have waited so long to see one of the best places in Korea. This place is Busan; more importantly Hayundai Beach!

Busan is about two hours by bus north of Suncheon, with a lively population pushing four million. It hosts one of the largest ports in the world, as well as being the pre-eminent beach to visit for all young Koreans during the month of August, where close to half a million swimming suit and rubber raft clad summer beach goers visit. There is also a famous aquarium housing a variety of displays from giant fish tanks, toothy sharks, penguins and even a pool of cute otters. Thankfully it was only February, and since I managed to escape town on a sunny Saturday, I decided to make the short journey to Busan to see the beach and the aquarium for the day.

Leaving Suncehon at nine am gave me ample time to cruise into the bus station(which is quite far from the beach.) After a punishing fifteen or twenty subway stops, I managed to stagger out of the station on the quiet road that leads directly to Hayundai beach. Just five minutes down the road is the beach, which was a breathtaking sunny day with families, students, and foreigners alike strolling along the sand while welcoming the soon approaching spring. There wasn't too many people, but just enough to give me the notion that I wasn't the only one to make it a beach weekend. I felt like I was back home in California walking along Santa Cruz Beach for the first time after a wet winter. I was so excited I felt obliged grab my camera and fire off a few snap shots. Sadly after coming up empty reaching for my camera in my backpack, I was forced to purchase a low quality box camera from a souvenir stand on the beach (you will see from my slide show at the end of this little anecdote just how low quality the photos came out.)

Anyway, after soaking up a few rays, I walked back up the road and negotiate accommodation at one of the spartan motels in the area. Since it was early, I decided to shower and clean myself up a bit to look more presentable when I visited the aquarium on the beach. The aquarium was curiously crowded, until it dawned on me that it was Saturday afternoon, and since Saturday afternoon is family day in Korea, I realized that it was going to be a cozy aquarium visit on this day. Pushing my way downstairs to the first level I found some lively penguins swimming and hanging out, which was quite entertaining despite having to push through the mass population of kids wanting to touch everything. Further along, the otter pool was even more crowded since it was feeding time and all the visitors were clamouring to see the cute little furry guys feeding. I took this overcrowded feeding time as an opportunity to see the giant shark tank, where the intimidating sharks swim right up to the window, where you can actually stare them down, which I did. I was just lucky the glass was unbreakable.

After about an hour or so of aquarium exploring, I headed back out into the sun and walked along the beach and up through some fish markets and took in the fishy, beach aroma that is typical of the sea. Down along the beach is a small temple and a interesting mermaid stature. As dusk approached I hiked around the bend further where a small quiet cove with fishing boats and a small lookout where you can see a beautiful bridge that looks quite breathtaking at night. I can only relate it to seeing the San Francisco Bay Bridge at night. Unfortunately my wonderful low quality box camera wasn't able to develop anything at night, so I have no pictures to prove how breathtaking the view was.

After my little day at the beach, I decided to try out an Indian restaurant that everyone in Suncheon unanimously regarded(despite the high prices,) as the best place to dine. In my opinion it wasn't just the best meal I had ever had in Busan, but the best non-Korean meal I had ever had in Korea. If you go, don't be stingy and get the Samosa appetizers with your meal, because you won't be disappointed. Anyway; there are no butts about it, if you want a enjoyable beach experience for a day make no haste and come to Busan.

A Glimpse of the Past!

Back home growing up I think I experienced the same folklore that most people of my generation encountered. The familiar phrase 'when I was your age,' was an expression duly noted to myself on many occasions. My father for example never shied away from an opportunity to tell me as a child that when he 'was my age'(I was around twelve at the time,) he was forced to pick up rocks every Saturday for a nickel . Even to this day I am not sure how to interpret this. As I kid I would usually roll my eyes and divert my attention towards the nearest window, however these days I would probably ask him why didn't he just call in sick or something? A nickel might have been a heck of a lot more back in 'those days,' but regardless, nobody picks up rocks anymore!

I think this is similar to the grandfather's cliche of walking in the snow to school; uphill, both ways, with out shoes, or a jacket to boot! The upshot to all of this is that many people believe that our generation is much different in the fact that life has become much more convenient for us. With convenience we can take a bus to school, and do less backbreaking work than scooping up rocks with our hands. With this convenience we humans can customize our lives to suit our personalities by basically doing whatever we want. Because of modernization, we are able to go where we want and survive just about anywhere quite easily. Gone are the days of having walk to school and sustain yourself on your own plot of land.

The irony of course is that humans did survive by sustaining themselves on their own land for many more generations than we have been living in modern mechanized times today. Many of us have flown the coop and will continue to do for some time, therefore living a simple, self-sustaining life in one's hometown will be a thing of the past-or already is a thing of the past. Despite this, living in Korea offers a unique glimpse of former times. This is because there are several folk villages scattered throughout the region, and what's especially nice about these villages is that they are more than open air museums they are in some respect also working, living, surviving villages.

It was also with my good fortune that I am residing less than twenty kilometers from one a famous place called Nagan Folk Village. It's nestled in a valley between two mountains, and is an area covering approximately two or three kilometers. The village is bordered with a surrounding wall, while the inside is covered by thatched roof houses. It was formerly a fortress during the Choson Period to protect themselves from the Japanese. Within the village today many residents are actually living in many of the houses (the roofs are thatched with rice grains, which need to be replaced annually.) There is a ceramics house where the proprietor is diligently creating mugs, plates, and other wares for tourists. There is also an inn where on can sleep.

There are other museum like pieces as well; for example the many totem poles surrounding the site represent many beliefs and wishes, there is an old administrative building recreating feudal times, as well as an entrance area and a selection of souvenir shops scattering throughout the village. So it won't appear as a hundred percent authentic working village, although it is pretty impressive for these modern times. I think Koreans in general believe that home is where the heart is so it is vital for them to maintain these cultural gems. As a visitor I appreciate the fact that at least we can see a part of the past, even if it's only a glimpse.

My visit ended at a village eatery with my cheerful and amusing guide Mr. Che buying me gal guk su(noodle soup with clams,) which was accompanied with a bottle of village made rice wine to drink. After a couple glasses of the sweet, slightly starchy wine, we ventured back to the modern world called Suncehon. Back in Suncheon I found myself immediately thrust back into modern life ordering a latte to wake myself up in TomnTom's hastily forgetting how lucky I am to live in such convenient times.

Riding the Korean Rails

There are certain types of travelers. The most common and even more importantly more successful travelers are the types who manage to plan effectively by doing proper research, and by doing things to maximize their time while spent traveling. The basic idea is that one has only a limited amount of time in a chosen place, therefore one would feel obliged to organize their trip as effectively as possible. I unfortunately usually fall into another category of travelers who don't plan effectively. Because of this I am sure there are many things I have missed during my time spent on this planet. The reason for this is because if I am traveling, I tend to feel like I shouldn't pay attention to a strict timetable. My entire life seems like a timetable, so if I am on a vacation why should I worry about time?

I only say this because there are a couple of great ways to get around Korea. The fastest and most effective way to shuttle yourself from town to town is of course by bus in Korea. Korean buses are some of the most comfortable and affordable buses in the world. In addition as a bonus they are amazingly frequent. When I traveled from Seoul to Suncheon last year, I was able to travel after midnight in just four hours to Suncheon. Without a doubt buses are a surefire effective way to get around in The Republic of Korea.

Despite this, I like to take the train. It's true; the train is a bit slower, has less departures, stops more, and even worse none of my foreign friends seem to take the train so I am always alone in this regard. What I want to impart to you though is that even though it might take as much as an entire hour more to roll into Seoul, the journey is abundantly more enjoyable when traveling. For those who don't have the burden of keeping to a regimented timetable, the train is a wonderful option to get around.

The amenities on a train are quite good to start; there is a small restaurant, with sandwiches, meals, drinks and snacks- there is even a small Internet cafe, and a few video games to boot. Also the windows are large and clean so you can enjoy the picturesque scenery while zipping through the country side. What is even nicer than the bus that you can always get up and stretch your legs and use the bathroom. Since buses only stop once, those with weaker bladders might find a train more convenient. Finally, for those traveling into Seoul will also find comfort that the trains come in right in the center of the city.

Despite the fact that most people will tell you that the buses in this country are better, I tend to enjoy the trains more. For me the journey itself to a destination is an important part of traveling. Although it can be viewed as a childish notion, I have to say then so be it. If it's childish to enjoy taking more time to reach a destination, then let the chips fall as they may, for I will keep doing my thing, because I am that kind of traveler.

The Iron Curtains Are Still Closed!

I have always been curious about North Korea. Maybe it's a part of my nature. The fact that a place can be so closed, mysterious, and mixed with an uncertain element of danger has compelled me recently to attempt to take a closer look. There are books, documentaries, articles and other forms of media which will portray life in North Korea; usually in a frightful, violent, Orwellian manner. I have seen many of these films and am currently reading an ambitious book called:'Under The Loving Care of Our Fatherly Leader,' by Bradley K. Martin. From what I have seen, I tend to believe a lot of that is true. In my opinion it's scary how one man(The Dear Leader,) can indoctrinate an entire society in believing that their people have great lives and the rest of the world is worse off-In spite of North Korea's food and electricity shortages, starvation, mandatory ten year military service requirements, and total media censorship.

Of course, these problems are among the most typically known to outsiders. Other individuals seem to think there prison camps, executions of deserters, and police checks to insure citizens have the right 'thinking.' To me it all sounds like a huge military dictatorship. Isn't that what it is anyway? Regardless of the aforementioned information, to me what is significant is that who really 'knows,' what goes on in north Korea? From what I believe it isn't the utopia that the previous dear leaders reiterate, however iron curtains really keep thinks hidden. To me the more a thing is hidden the more I want to uncover it.

Recently I wanted to visit North Korea. There are groups that arrange visits routinely from Beijing, however the cost is too dear. Too dear to contribute to the(sorry for the pun) Dear Leader's cause. About 2000 Euro for five days to be exact. For that fee you will get a guide/guard, a hotel room, and food. The guide is instructed to keep an eye on you at all times during the day-you can not roam freely in North Korea. Anyway, I'm saving my change for my potential graduate education soon, so I opted out of the Pyongyang experience. Instead I decided to take a day trip to Panmunjom settled in DMZ area between the two Korea's.

You can arrange from one of a plethora of tour companies in Seoul a day trip to Panmunjom and around the DMZ area for around sixty dollars-including lunch. The buses depart in the morning from Seoul to make the 60 or so kilometer journey north and then return around 3pm. The DMZ area is 155 kilometers long and four kilometers wide. It stretches two kilometers into South Korea, and the Same in North Korea. Panmunjom is right at the edge of the wide part of the DMZ poking into North Korea.

From there in my opinion was the highlight of the tour. There is a lookout where you can watch North Korean Soldiers watching you. As my camera targeted one soldier he immediately turned his binoculars in my direction. It was this little reflex that made me feel a bit that this wasn't a game for them, in spite of the fact that I was just a silly tourist.

As the tour continued we stopped at another lookout and saw Kijungdong, which is better known as Propaganda Village. This is a village built by North Koreans, which is supposedly completely vacated, but was built to appear as a attractive, desirable place to reside. Nestled in the center of the village is the massive ubiquitous flagpole, which is touted as the highest in the world. Other stops included; the introductory slide show showcasing the history of the region, The Bridge of No Return(which was were the PO W's returned to their native country,) and signing waivers acknowledging that the tour group was not liable for my shooting by pointing at North Koreans gestures.

Finally I had lunch with my group of fellow tourists(whom were all Japanese.) I was given my own bulgogi pot, while the others feasted together. It felt like another typical lunch as a foreigner traveling alone in Korea. Regardless, the food was good. After that I went back to Seoul and had a nap-which is the best way to end a good day. To conclude, it's true that I really didn't see 'much' about North Korea on this trip, however it did become apparent that Iron Curtain was still closed. What I wonder now though is if the curtains will eventually rust and deteriorate? What will happen then?

Please watch my slide show from this experience!

Something New

I have been experiencing cultural overload the past few days. Currently I am holed up in my motel room in Seoul like a recluse trying to figure out how to impart to you the chaotic past few days that the proverbial hourglass of life has been burning away. I am torn between obliging myself to rest or to share some of my experiences with you I have partook in over the past month. In a way it is great, since sometimes I feel hard up for topics to expound upon (I wrote about food courts once,) and recently I have been feeling backlogged of things to mention. These days this is definitely not the case. After returning back from Poland after a relaxing vacation, I thrust myself unexpectedly into foreigner tourist mode in Korea quite quickly. Mind you I'm still jet-lagged. Most normal creatures would still be recovering from their long journey; not me. Anyway, because of these exhaustive past few days, I am going to give my brain, and body a break. I'll expound on many of the exciting things I have done in Korea in the next few days. Regardless, I am especially excited to share with you something that I have been experimenting with recently. This is a slide show of photos from my trip to Poland. So please enjoy and leave positive comments!

There's sound too!