Koreans do Chicken Better

If you are an American, then of course you are aware that KFC says they do chicken right. Their crispy, greasy chicken has even exported itself to various other parts of the world as well. At least we know they do capitalism right. These days Colonel Sanders, has become a ubiquitous fast food symbol internationally. When I lived in the Czech Republic, the fast food franchise was cleaning up by opening up a group of restaurants along metro stops in Prague. A couple years later, when I came to Korea I noticed KFC is even making dents in larger cities like Seoul and Gwangju. Nowadays, in my opinion it's a pity. Despite the fact that I can occasionally grab a chicken sandwich(which means a meal with actual bread,) I have to say KFC pales in comparison to the plethora of chicken establishments that exist in every town in South Korea.

It might not sound too appealing to hear that Korea has a lot of chicken restaurants. I understand chicken isn't that important. It isn't always healthy either. In these health conscious, calorie counting times, chicken might not be the most attractive thing to write about. What is interesting for me though, is that one king-size box of chicken in Korea at fourteen dollars can stuff two extremely hungry people beyond capacity. It gets even better too. You can order fried, grilled, boneless, wings, legs, or thighs. In addition, you get a selection of delicious sauces, that KFC will never match. It's making me hungry already.

After you get your chicken, you will also notice that you will get a nice selection of side dishes too; usually a few radishes, and if you're lucky ice-cream, or a bottle of Pepsi. It's always nice to receive something extra for free. If you order chicken, like most things you order in Korea, there will always be something extra. My three favorite establishments are Gupne Chicken, NE Ne(which means YES YES,) Chicken, and Mexican chicken. Gupne specializes in grilled chicken, and they always give you free Pepsi. NE NE gives you ice-cream, and a huge selection of sauces, and finally Mexican Chicken will test your spice tolerance.

To test the popularity of chicken with Koreans, I have asked many of my students which they prefer; chicken, or pizza. What high school student doesn't like pizza? I can tell you all of my students will happily devour pizza. They have no problem eating cheesy crust slices at Pizza Hut or Mr. Pizza. However, if they have to choose, they wouldn't even think twice of ordering chicken. I think they unanimously chose chicken. For your information, I have over a six hundred students. That's a lot of chicken.

We all know it isn't healthy. Vegetarians aside (sorry if I offend any of you,) who doesn't like eating chicken? I guess a little is okay, right? The problem with me though, is that I have my top three chicken restaurant numbers saved in my phone. Each place has caller Id too, so they know where I live and where to deliver. So my situation can be dangerous. It's not just me though, because it's no secret that Koreans do pretty decent chicken.

The Great Outdoors

I think I first heard the term 'Africa Hot,' from a family member when I was a child. It was during one of those family vacations in the mountains where everyone on the family tree participates. Therefore my memory is fuzzy as to which relative had actually used the term 'Africa Hot' in my presence. Regardless, I later learned that the expression was from the 1988 film Biloxi Blues, which was originally a play written by Neil Simon. At the time I thought the 'Africa hot' I was experiencing as a child was like real Africa heat. I have never been to Africa either, so I logically thought at that time that it couldn't get any hotter. Despite this, the 'Africa' like temperatures in California only range between twenty-eight and thirty-five Celsius, which of course is only 'California mountain hot.' Heat can be a relative term. For humans, depending on where they live, the heat can be more tolerable, if they are used to warmer temperatures. I am sure Africans wouldn't complain about the Californian mountain air. Conversely I think an Irish summer tourist in California would have a lot to say about the heat.

These days I'm living in Asia; more specifically South Korea. I still haven't set foot on African Soil, but one day I will. Until I do though, I must say that I hadn't experienced true hot until I came here. After a short pleasant spring June comes, and brings rain with it. Actually it rains a lot, and hard. Going umbrella less out doors isn't an option. The rain doesn't come in drops, it comes in lakes. What's even worse than that is the temperatures range from 25 to 30, so it is quite humid all the time. Later, once the end of July rolls around things start to dry out. The rain disappears, and then the real heat takes the place of the torrential rain. The temperatures are at least 3o degrees, and linger day and night. It gets so hot that an air conditioner is almost a necessity. I am too cheap to buy one though, so I suffer. The fan only helps if it's turned up to '11' , and only during the wee hours of the morning, where there is a helpful soft breeze blowing through my open windows. What's even worse is that the water from all of the rain is constantly evaporating from the rainy season, so the simple act of even venturing outside can easily cover one heavily with sweat. The life saver for me were the coffee houses, and cinemas in Suncheon that have an unlimited supply of A/C. Koreans like to strut their A/C power, which isn't exactly a bad thing in July and August.

Anyway, my reasons for ranting about hot weather is that I've just noticed that tomorrow is September the first. All of my windows are still open for twenty four hours a day, and I still can only manage dressing in shorts and t-shirts, but I actually don't need my fan to cool me at night anymore. I can slowly notice the change in temperature, which is giving me a notion that it will all be over soon, and we can all resume normal lives outdoors again. Which is good, because the fall is a great time to be outdoors, and moreover, what I really want to share with you is that another great thing about living in Korea in the fall is the miles upon miles of mountains to climb and explore.

In fact, according to the Lonely Planet guide, Korea is covered by seventy-percent mountains. Many nations have a specific region that has accessible hiking trails, but in Korea, those trails are everywhere. Even those living in busy Seoul are able to quickly access local peaks. Despite the fact that Korean mountains are not that high(they typically range between 1200 and 1500 meters high,) they just seem to cover just about every province of this nation. *Halasan on Jeju-Do is the highest peak reaching 1950 meters, but is just a mere fraction of mountain space that surrounds South Korea. In terms of elevation, South Korea isn't Tibet- Tibet's average elevation is actually over 4,000 meters. So South Korea can't rightfully be called the Switzerland of Asia. It would however be more fitting to imagine Korea as The Appalations of Asia, with trails sprawling all over the rolling hills and modest peaks, from downtown Seoul to remote areas on Jeju-do.

In Suncheon where I reside, I can literally walk out my door, go down the elevator, cross a parking lot, and take a quick hike past a mountain temple, and continue up, and up, and walk for miles and miles, until I get tired too tired out to continue. The trail head is very close, which makes it a perfect place for an evening sunset climb, or morning pre-work, workout. The only problem of course is the intolerable summer heat. The only occasions I attempt to climb anything is after six in the evening, while I am armed with a large, quite nippy, bottle of water. Additionally, I am also only able to do this mind you, because the mountain is quite shaded until it peaks out.

It's such a nice thing, that I could literally write countless, innumerable, pages giving tribute to the mountains in South Korea. The problem is though, I am going hiking in the morning, so I need my beauty sleep. So in conclusion, I just want to express my gratitude to the month of September for showing its more inviting face. For doing this, I can attest, that I will be out and about climbing mountains here and there, and enjoying the outdoors, like any normal, healthy, human like myself rightfully should. Korea is quite a unique country for its beautiful landscape, and scenery. Because of this, it would be a waste not to experience it. So for a while, Africa is on hold.




*Taken From Lonely Planet Korea-page 66, 2004 ed.

An Alternative Way to Spend a Weekend

Once upon a time, I was younger. Being young was a memorable part of my life too. By the way, when the word memory comes up I usually become a little sentimental, but today I am going to keep the overly sentimental narrative to myself. Instead, in the spirit of relaxing summer vacations, I think it is fitting that I expound on some of the more trivial experiences I had in those 'younger' days. Today I will tell you about how I spent my summer vacations. More specifically, I want talk about rock n' roll.

I like rock music a lot. I've attended concerts in clubs, restaurants, houses, stadiums, arenas, even bookstores. I've seen guitars smashed, pics thrown, mosh pits, fights between bands and audience members, and most other things associated with with rock music gatherings. I've staged dived, crowd surfed, punk jumped, and banged my head enough that it will likely cause brain damage during my golden years. I was (and still am by some degree,) by definition a great enthusiast. If there was a band on a bill, I would be there. Sometimes it was even for my own band. I've even played at places where we were strictly not allowed, and still managed to play a few paltry tunes. Moreover, what I really got a kick out doing was going to rock festivals. I haven't been to that many, but I can recall the several big all day rock shows I was fortunate enough to attend.

My first rock festival was an informal event with 70,000 people called 'Day on the Green. I was seventeen. Metallica, Guns and Roses, and rapper Ice-T's band Body Count played there. The annual concert was notorious for it's giant mosh pits, however, in addition to the mosh pits, the year I went became a night full of heavy metal and grass throwing. Another great festival I went to was the 'Van's Warped Tour.' That was the gigantic California punk rock tour, that has become famous everywhere. I went to the second one ever held in San Francisco. The tickets only cost twenty bucks, but what I also remember as is typical with most large American gatherings is the absurd concession prices. For example, a bottle of water was three dollars.

Anyway, when I was young, I loved partaking in rock n' roll adventures. I am still not old, and I am still able to rock out, but I feel that I am evolving in a way that makes it more manageable to say goodbye to rock. Living in Korea has made that transition easier. There aren't many big rock festivals that pass through this small crowded peninsula. Despite this, there is still one. And yes, for old times sake; I went. It's called the Pentaport Rock Festival. It's in Incheon, which is near Seoul. It lasts for three days during the middle of July. If you got a extra couple hundred dollars you can go too.

Yes, I said a couple hundred dollars. It's expensive, isn't it? The thing is, if you went to a three day festival in the states you would probably pay the same. In addition, I also believe that once inside, you would pay an exorbitant fee for any food or service you needed. The three day ticket also includes free camping. American venues can be quite a rip-off. In Korea, the prices stayed the same. A bottle of water was a dollar, a beer was three dollars, dinner for two, which was delicious, was about ten, and t-shirts and souvenirs were the same prices you would pay at any other shop in town. Anyway, I bought a one day ticket for a more 'modest' price of eighty dollars. Indeed, it was still expensive to enter, but once inside I didn't have that trapped feeling that most large venue events have in America. So the ticket prices made a dent in the wallet, but once inside I was able to relax.

Once inside, I noticed a different atmosphere than what I am accustomed to here. I felt like I actually was younger again among other young rockers who have a lot to prove to the world. South Korea at times can feel a bit formal, and serious, but all of that disappeared the second I walked inside. There were not suits and ties, just young people walking around with either sandals or big rubber boots. The venue was a giant mud covered field near the sea, and it had rained the night before, so the ground had the same sloshiness as the mud festival. Wha was interensting though was, the tickets were on the more expensive side, and the ground was muddy, so I was able to enjoy the fact that one could walk freely to the stage and manage to find a good spot to watch and enjoy the bands.

The first band that I saw were Aussie group The Vines. Imagine Nirvana playing shorter, more polished songs. They weren't the headliners, but they played quite well for one of those 'middle of the afternoon,' bands. After that my girlfriend and I ate some ribs, then we went to see the next band The Gossip. They were quite unique. Imagine a larger version of Stevie Nicks, mixed with a bit of Aretha Franklin. That was their lead singer. I have to say, that she tore it up. The band was OK, but she really energized the crowd with her vocals and on stage personae. She even knew how to talk to Koreans, which might sound strange, but after living here, I've noticed that you can really impress the locals here if you have the right manners. It's not hard either. It just shows you that a little kindness goes a long way, and that's true here.

Anyway, the band I paid so much money to see were the headliners from Scotland; Travis. They were pretty darn good too. They weren't the best band I had ever seen, but they were pretty impressive. They have quite a large catalogue of songs, and were able to play a good deal of them in one evening. They finished the show with an acoustic version of 'flowers in the window.' It was a nice way to wind down from the day. After the last chord was played, we clapped for a few seconds then pushed our way through the mud to the exit and went to sleep. As I'm just not as young as I used to be. However, I'm still not that old. So if you aren't so old, and if you are in the ROK, I recommend making a trip to the Pentaport Rock Festival.

A Visit to the Neighbors

When I was seventeen I assumed I lived in the greatest part on Earth. Now, ironically 15 years later I still believe that is true. I can affirm that the San Francisco Bay Area is the most awesome place on this small planet. However, when I was a young naive lad I had never been to another country, and I was quite ignorant in believing that it wasn't necessary to go anywhere else. Like a typical Californian youth, I felt like all one needed in life was a job that provided the income for unlimited Taco Bell, convenience store stops, a Blcokbuster Card, a guitar, and a car to provide an occasional weekend beach visit. Yes, when I was young I was at the center of the world in northern California. The Bay Area for many of us was, is, and will always be 'hella cool.' It wasn't until a year later when I graduated high school that I realistically gave any thought to seeing another country. Like many young people who live in the land of a 21 year old minimum drinking age, we discover a place south of our tightly controlled border as a respite for tequila popping and cheap burrito binging. I was one of those creatures who, at the ripe young age of 18 discovered Mexico as a place for a young man to partake in such enterprises.

So in the summer in 1994 I visited our neighbors in Mexico. I came, drank, ate, and left with the experience that there are other places out there. When I came home, the visit to Mexico left me with an impression that there was so much more to see in the world. Actually, it had quite a huge impression on me, since I've spent most of the last eight years living in foreign countries. Now looking back at my life it seems mind boggling how many places I've seen; and to think it all started with a visit to the neighbors, where I discovered that foreign countries have something different, unique and interesting to offer.

As this blog is about life in Korea, I told myself I wouldn't write about other countries. Despite this, I will make an exception this week. The reason being is that I have just returned from a visit to Korea's Neighbors, Japan. Since Korea is Japan's neighbor I think it is fitting that I can state that another great thing about living in Korea in fact is its' proximity to Japan. Since many millions of humans have visited Japan, I won't go into too many details about things to see or do there. I will just tell you that if you haven't been, then you are simply missing out.

If you are an American and if you have been to Mexico, you will see that there is a huge difference between the two lands. I can attest that despite the relative close geographical distance both countries are both appealing, and compelling in a variety of their own separate ways. For example in America, everything is readily available. There is nothing like American convenience. Whereas in Mexico, things tend to move at their own pace-and if there is a soccer match on, then the pace becomes immeasurable. So for us living in Korea, Japan is an amazingly enchanting country to visit, which has many differences to life in Korea. Many people living in Korea seem to think that there aren't many differences between the two countries so they ignore Japan come vacation time and travel to more 'exotic' places like Thailand, or The Philippines. There are indeed differences.

The Koreans like to eat really spicy ramen soup, but if you like cheap sushi, and salty ramen visit Japan. In Korea you can learn taekwondo, but if you want to see a great baseball game, come to Japan. If you want to be left alone when you travel, come to Japan. Although, many of us know that if you want to be greeted by an innumerable amount of adorable children, come to Korea. The kids like to greet foreigners here, so if you are in Korea for a short stay, it's a wonderful experience. In Japan, you won't feel like an honored guest or anything, but if you like anonymity, then it's a good break from life in Korea. Additionally if you like to improve your language skills, then Korea is a better place to carry a phrasebook. Less people use English in Korea-with the exception of Seoul, where English is widely used in tourist areas. In Japan however, you can speak English, because they seem to be more used to foreign visitors. These are just a small array of examples about the diversity between two geographically close, but distinctly different nations.

So if you are in Korea, and if you do decide to visit Japan, then congratulations! Getting there is easy too. My illustrious, beautiful, travel agent/girlfriend casually arranged plane tickets from Seoul to Nagoya in Japan for 370 dollars return. It's a pretty good deal. The flight time is about two hours, and during that time, you actually get a pretty tasty lunch, with unlimited drinks to boot! Once safely on the ground in Nagoya, you can just jump on an express train for downtown for about 8 dollars. From there, you can catch a bullet train to anywhere in the country you desire. In Japan, bullet means what it means-bullet. We traveled 140 kilometers to Kyoto, in the time it takes for me to drink a half a cup of coffee; about 35 minutes.

You can also take a boat to Japan from Korea. This is what most people do. There is a hydro foil service from Pusan to Fukuoka. This Journey is about three hours and cost around 270 dollars return. I've heard it's a good service, but you need to book in advance, As many people seem to prefer the boat to the plane, because of it's cheaper rates. I get sea sick, and I am used to sitting in uncomfortable economy seats on planes, and eating single serving meals while wearing a tight seat belt. It's a miserable experience, but it's what I am accustomed to, so I'll stick to the proverbial friendly skies.

Traveling can be a life changing, rewarding experience, which money nor fame can give. Since I have no money, and I am far from famous-except at my school, I can say visiting different foreign countries at least give me a great deal of satisfaction, and a little understanding about the world we live in. Despite this notion of going to far away foreign lands bringing enchantment, it's interesting how unique the places that are geographically close to us also seem to be. If you go from California to Tijuana the food gets decidedly spicier, but if you go from Seoul to Tokyo you might look into your ramen and ask, what happened to the spice?

A Note to My Readers, AKA a Note to Myself

Dear readers,
This note is to inform my patient, consistent 'readers'-actually me, (since I am the primary reader of this blog,) that I will be taking leave from my self appointed post as a blogger of interesting things in the land of Kimchi between the week of the nineteenth to the twenty-sixth. As I will be vacationing in Japan, I will be unable to utilize my time to write anything Korea related. I know how this must come as a great shock to the scores of my global followers that I would actually leave this great nation to partake in sightseeing adventures somewhere else. Despite this, please be confident that I will be back shortly and I will carry on with this historic task of sharing things about life here with you-or to myself.

If you aren't me reading this, then congratulations! You are one of the few. If you are still reading on, then thank you again. If you are now thinking what a terrible narcissist the author is, then you might be right, but bear in mind that I love what I am doing. There are many things that give great pleasure to people, and putting words together to create sentences is one of those things that strangely makes me content. I have played guitar for the last twelve years; and I thought it was something that would give me satisfaction, but I always felt like I was always striving to achieve something. There was never an end. I always felt like I was trying to climb a mountain. If you are always climbing the mountain it kinda sucks the joy out of the whole trip. Anyway, these days guitar is still a great hobby, but with writing, I find it's something I just enjoy doing. It's an enjoyment where once I stop, I find it easy to lose track of time. It's gotten to the point where I am happy wasting away a Friday night simply rambling in my diary about how great Korea is because there are Styrofoam sidewalks. So it's because of this that I am informing my ardent blog readers; but most likely myself. That as kimchi is red, I will undoubtedly will return next week. This is what I like.

A Dirty Weekend, But Somebody's Gotta Do It!

It's a Friday evening in the middle of July in Suncheon. The weekend has commenced. Since it's the warm time of the year, life has become a twenty-four hour T-shirt and Sandal affair. I love this time. I despise hiding in my flop-house apartment while watching the harsh, wretched, winters. Life for me is waiting in the dugout for the spring and summer seasons. After August, I feel like the season is over and I head back to the bench to wait for spring training. Sorry for the baseball metaphor, but I'm an American and a baseball person to boot. Speaking about being an American, I notice that all of the Americans on this glorious July evening have disappeared. It's summer and I feel like the only foreign teacher in town. No one stays indoors around here. They must be somewhere, So where are my friends? After a few minutes of contemplating this little glitch in the Suncheon social scene, because sometimes my brain takes time to make realizations, and after a short lived period of intense concentration, I finally recall that this weekend is the Boryeong Mud Festival. Of Course! That's where everyone has gone. It's one of the biggest summer events for foreigners and Koreans in South Korea, and since I'm going to spend all of my money in Japan next week watching-yes; Baseball. I'm the only foreign teacher in this town not attending the weekend event.



So everyone else will be doing exactly what the name Mud Festival might suggest; playing like a child in the mud. I am here alone this weekend, but since I attended last year, I think I am qualified to share a few experiences with you. Since 1998, foreigners and Koreans alike congregate to a massive beach in the town of Boryeong and completely cover themselves in mud for a few days, then hose off and call it a weekend. The beach is about 2 kilometres long, and along that beach there is a plethora of themed tents each specializing in some sort of mud shenanigans. For example, there is a mud prison where you can submit yourself to a short period behind bars, while you wade in a pool of slushy mud. If that's not for you there is the giant mud wrestling pool, where the US GI's tend to end up and partake in throwing each other around. They provide a big part of the entertainment, as they can really throw each other. There are also hundreds of Koreans taking photos, since the most prized photos are always highlighted to advertise the following year's festival. So watch out if you go because you will feel like a mud caked celebrity. The highlight for me actually is the where you get painted in an assortment colors of mud. There a several tents scattered about that will just paint you head to toe in various colors, and will also draw interesting designs on you with a selection of brushes. I think I ended up looking like a giant, hairy, smurf with brown mud cracked feet. I would look strange anywhere else, but in Boryeong it's business as usual. It's kind of an enchanting experience to be covered in mud among thousands of others.



The town of Boryeong has a unique overabundance of mud. It was also an unrivaled idea that gave them this strangely popular festival. Instead of using mud for agriculture, the town decided to try to use it to lure the tourist here. There is even a centrally located mud museum, and an interesting gift shop where you can buy actual mud soap. Talk about irony. So the idea of mud tourism has worked here. Since 1998 the Mud Fest has become one of the most popular festivals in South Korea. This is a country that isn't in need of festivals either. To name a few, there is the Buddha Street Parade in Seoul, The Jinju Lantern Festival, and the Pentaport Rock Festival in Incheon, which the bands Travis and Underworld will headline this year's bill. In just over ten years of existence, the Mud Festival is something that has become a cultural phenomenon, and a playground for young and old. That's right the kids come too.



It's not just foreigners and, Korean college photographers who partake, but Korean families come out in huge numbers to experience the muddiness. I really like this bonding between Koreans and foreigners. During my sojourn here, I sometimes feel like I haven't had many opportunities to mix with Koreans. Despite my best efforts to be a good diplomat I feel like foreigners and Koreans keep sort of a safe distance between each other. Maybe we are all just too different and it's easier to maintain our own singularity. We like to stay on our own islands. I can live with this, but I was delighted to see that this doesn't really exist at the mud festival. It's rare to see people interacting as one. I guess everyone is essentially the same at the Mud Fest because at the end of the day, everyone is covered from head to foot in brown, crackly mud.


So after everyone cakes themselves with mud, and a well deserved shower, most people regroup for the evening program, which includes; a rock concert, fireworks, and food and drink on the beach. After watching a few cover bands on the main stage, I floated over to the quieter side of the beach with some friends and smuggled a few cans of Hite and some bottle rockets and enjoyed the clear summer evening watching the fireworks pop over my head as the mosquitoes gnawed at my freshly showered legs. It was a lasting, captivating experience. So it's a pity that I'm holed up in Suncheon for the 2008 festival, but that's life. Sometimes you have to give up something to get something better in return. I am looking forward to seeing baseball in Japan though, and I think that can be another unique experience, which will be worth writing about. So, before I get back to my quiet weekend, I leave you with this advice. If you are thinking about coming to the Mud Festival, bring a change of clothes, and book a comfortable room early. It's the place to be in the middle of July.

A Happy Head

In Suncheon, the town where I hang my hat these days, there is a monstrous chain store called Home Plus. In Home plus you can buy almost anything you need for your home and your kitchen-plus! (sorry I had to say it.) Anyway, it's a convenient place to shop. As a matter of fact, I bought a new Ipod Nano to replace the one I had washed yesterday, then I immediately retreated to the lower level to purchase my weekly groceries. Just like that, talk about accessibility! Because of this handy novelty most foreigners tend to congregate here on a daily basis. If you ask me, if you took the top five places where you would find a non-Korean face in Suncheon; Home Plus would rank in the top 3. The other two would be in the Shidae Apartment elevator, because that's where all of us wonderful English Teachers reside; the apartment, not the elevator, and probably Elvis bar, which is a little bar which has an overabundance of vinyl albums and whose owner is patently called Elvis. What is also attractive to foreigners at Home Plus is the top floor because it has a food court style restaurant that has enormous portions of food for as little as four dollars a meal, but what is curiously appealing is something that lies right besides the food court. There you will find a relatively affordable hair dresser that gives you the greatest head massages for no charge. If you get your hair cut there, you will also be treated to a complimentary double wash and dry, with a no -nonsense, intense scalp massage.

If you are foreigner in Korea, you won't have to make any appointments. Just walk in, and they will see you. Since you are are a visitor to Korea, they will usually try to expedite your visit. Koreans want to give their nation a hospitable face regarding customer service with foreigners. As a bonus If you do have to wait they will graciously offer you some coffee to keep you awake for the entire five minutes you might actually have to sit there unattended. See they will go out of their way to get you a seat with a hair-stylist who will consequently try to speak a little English-but you shouldn't expect much. Their English isn't great, and their hair cutting English is lacking a vocabulary bank. They will mostly just tell you how handsome you are. Koreans like to pay compliments. Even to less hairy folks like me. At the least there will be hundreds of magazine photos to choose from to match the hair style you want. My Korean is non-existent and I usually manage by choosing a picture of David Beckham or someone much cooler and hipper than me and hope that they can mysteriously create the same

Once you are in a chair, you will be asked again what you want them to do with your hair. Just show them Beckahm! Then you will be whisked away to the sink by a stylist in training; usually a girl just out of high school, where she will begin phase one of your hair transformation. Then after a quick shampoo and dry, you get led back to your 'head,' hair cutter, who works on your hair with a passion that I really don't understand, but I just let them work away, and hope that they remember the picture revealed to them. As he cuts, there is another assistant who stands there with a giant sponge and removes the little hairy bits that tend to scratch a little. So if you're counting, that's a total of three people working on your hair. I think there are less people assigned to surgically remove a brain tumor. Once the hair is cut, and it's closely matching the photo, although most likely much shorter than you had anticipated, then it's time to hit the sink again.

This is the part where the girl massages your scalp-after another shampoo and towel dry of course. It's isn't just tender Korean hand touches poking at little points of your head, but it's an intense, brain tingling, stress relieving affair, that leaves you refreshed till dinnertime. Your cranium feels like it's being kneaded like pizza dough, but in the end it feels so delightful. So after your deep brain press, you just hop back in the chair, and girl assistant number two turns on a hair dryer and dries the little parts girl number one missed. Then the head cutter instructs girl number two where to apply the gel to make your hair look stylish.

You then walk to the counter and pay your 11,000 won tab. By the way that's like 11 dollars. I don't have to tell you how much more a cut of this opulence would be in America. The cheapest place in my little home town charges 14 dollars, and that's by moaning, hungover, miserable ladies who just chop your hair with noisy electronic clippers for fifteen minutes and expect a tip in the end. In Korea, you never have to tip-anywhere! If you try, the Korean will just give you your money back informing you that you had paid too much. After paying-who is another lady by the way, you will then be thanked greatly by receiving many countless bows from all three ladies, then you will escorted to the main door by the head stylist who will bid you a safe journey home. Then you will receive one final courteous bow, and you'll walk out with a smile, much shorter hair, and a relaxed scalp.