Another Rock Turned Up!

I admit that I am not by any means vertically challenged, although it must be dully noted that my height doesn't necessarily exceed that of someone of a more elevated nature. If you tested the height of a dutch male, a penguin, and myself I would undoubtedly measure in at second place slightly ahead of the cuter Arctic waddler. Because of my modest height, I confess that growing up afforded me few advantages when playing sports. Despite my best efforts to play baseball, a little basketball, some tennis, and even a semester of ultimate Frisbee, I'll admit that my height didn't play any advantage in terms of ability. In fact in retrospect, in my less than average stature, my inclination to even involve myself in athletic endeavors seemed to prove a giant miscalculation on my part.

That all changed last May. Despite the fact that I have been an abject failure at most team sports, I never actually really gave soccer a shot. Since I am such a like able fellow, I get on quite well with the players of the local foreigner soccer team in Suncheon. The Suncehon Soccer club, or SIFC; for Sunchoen International Football Club, let me come out to one of their games last May. I played for an entire half, and by the end it was obvious that I was as hopeless as I was at any other sport. During that inaugural match the players on my own team began shouting at me like I was an enemy. According to them I couldn't pass, I couldn't shoot; apparently I couldn't even touch the ball correctly. However, after the game I was by some great fortune invited to come to practices. Eventually I managed to handle myself a bit better. In the end, I have put in a lot of hard work, which I have learned is 90 percent to achieving anything. Although, I actually feel that my limited tallness has given me an advantage that with hard work can make me into a decent player. If you don't believe me, look at Wayne Rooney, or Lionel Messi! Shorter people usually make better soccer players because of their lower center of gravity and are able to control the ball more efficiently.

Because of my hard work I am now starting to slowly feel like a contributor to the team instead of being the teams Achilles heel. Please understand that this is no easy feat to achieve for anyone; especially by myself in such a minimal amount of time. Soccer isn't exactly the 'girls' sport many Americans claim. If you disagree, try sprinting up and down a football field for 90 minutes only to stop at 1 minute intervals to slide tackle someone running into you. It isn't fishing. Regardless, what I want to share with you is the tremendous sunny weekend I had this weekend past in the city of Ulsan at an international soccer tournament.

Ulsan is a city that is practically hidden by the shadows of gigantic Busan. Busan is a mega city with beaches and nightife that can contend with many formidable international destinations, so it's no surprise that not many people visit Ulsan. What is surprising though, is that Ulsan has over a million residents. It's practically the size of Gwangju. Additionally, it's a pretty interesting town to boot! Shame on you Lonely Planet for not even including it in your book.

Fortunately, I had the opportunity to take a couple of days to explore a bit. The main part of the city is divided by a giant river, which has a plethora of parks lining the banks. There is an overabundance of verdant trees and new soccer fields, which is a rare treat for a foreigner living in Suncheon. Also on each side of the river there are several pockets of that ubiquitous downtown 'buzz' that Korea is so famous for. There are many places to meander during the day, pose for photos, have lunch shop and enjoy the scenery. Additionally, that buzz continues into the night a large selection of colorful downtown pedestrian zones, restaurants, cafes, and bars that will put a smile on even the hardest to satisfy. What is especially nice, is that I was completely surprised by this. I had no idea that I would be visiting such an inviting city. It just goes to show that no matter how long you live in a place, that there is always another rock to turn up.

The soccer tournament was a success too of course. We won our first match, then fought hard to reach the quarter finals. We lost, but you need to understand our team is from a city of less than half a million. Suncheon is half the size of Ulsan. We aren't even a shadow of Gwangju, additionally we are even too small to be a metaphorical little brother. We are like a grandchild to mighty Gwangju. This being said, I think you can appreciate the success we've accomplished after competing with teams from the ranks of Busan, Daegu, Gwangju and Ulsan. Regardless of winning or losing though, what is important is that we could stand tall in a city with a group of guys from a low population, and still enjoy ourselves in a surprisingly big and exciting town.

Memories on a Monday

As I crawled out of bed on this frosty November Monday morning I hit the snooze button and curled back into my blankets like an arm in a sling and fell right back into my slumber for another eight minutes. Which is the same feat I later managed to accomplish another four times before succumbing to the inevitable Monday obligatory drudgery of getting dressed and hurrying to work. Despite my trademark cold morning gruff behavior I at least admit that the view from my apartment this morning was especially sunny and clear. In the distance beyond downtown Suncheon I briefly took peek a the clear blue region known as Suncehon Bay, which lies just eight kilometers from Suncheon.

As it is a seasonably chilly Monday, and as most Mondays will continue in this fashion for several months, I am compelled to reminisce about a day spent hiking in late spring around Suncheon Bay and Eco Park. As I have mentioned beforehand, it's conveniently located about eight kilometers from downtown Suncheon. There are several buses that reach the park, however a quicker option would be to just hop in a cab, which only costs between eight and ten thousand won. Once you arrive at the foot of the park, you will be inundated with tall grasslands at a trail head that winds for a kilometer or so through a marshy mudflat area. After advancing along the trail a bit, the mudflat becomes more sea like and you can get a glimpse of some tour boats that head out towards the Korean Strait. Additionally, In this interesting pocket of a swampy sea border you can also catch a glimpse of many interesting migratory birds in flight.

After a kilometer or two the trail begins to push upward. Since me and my sporty girlfriend welcomed the challenge, we continued up for a while. We didn't expect too much in terms of a steep hike, but regardless this is exactly what we were given. As the grade increased it seemed both of us were feeling exceedingly brave with each marching step we managed. From the top the reward paid off in spades. For example, On one hand the flatter, more manageable part of the path, there are a surplus of visitors. However, with each passing step up there seems to be a gradual decrease of humans, which makes the day seem far more peaceful. Also, as many panoramic views from Korea are stunning, the view from above of Suncheon Bay was no exception. There is something about the landscape in this country that is truly unique.

As we stopped for a couple of snapshots and a rest, I really began to wonder what is it about this landscape that I really hold with such a high regard. I guess the main reason is the fact that there are so many mountains that are so close to the sea. They are in their own rights impressive enough. The sea and mountains are equally impressive natural beauties that posses the power to inspire or pacify a great deal of us; not to mention an American living in Korea. What's especially nice about Korea is that you have so many areas of sea and mountain space together. In addition to Suncheon Bay, locally there are the vast coastal areas around Gwanyang, Yeosu, and Nokdong. These areas all offer a picturesque blend of mountain and sea panoramics.

So as I lazily gaze out of my eighteenth story window on this frosty November morning past the city towards the East Sea, while struggling to find a clean shirt, and a useable coffee cup, I tell myself that if I didn't have to drag myself to work today I could do a lot of exploring out in that vast distance beyond. Since I am not a friend of the colder climates, I would object from venturing far today though. However, just to imagine doing it makes me feel warmer inside, which is a good thing for a cold day, isn't it? Because of this, in the spirit of the ever decreasing climate temperatures I reckon I will make a similar posting next week, so stay tuned.

A Monthly Gathering

Last Saturday was one of the more anticipated days for me as a foreigner in South Korea. I have been practicing the mentally exhausting and physically draining sport of Taekwondo for over a year now, and I was finally given the opportunity to showcase my kicks and forms for my official black belt test. I had trained with a reasonably disciplined work ethic, and in the end I think it paid off. Since I am prone to give up on things prematurely I have to admit I am especially pleased to have accomplished something requiring effort. Moreover a black belt with my name in English and Korean would look cool on the mantelpiece.

As I worked diligently for the test, I had little difficulty. Regardless, I was surprised on how fast the actual test flew by anyway. You see, it wasn't just me going for a belt this Saturday. This was the monthly testing in Suncheon, which simply meant that it was an entire day affair with close to five hundred other testers including myself. The candidates for belts were led up in groups of ten to swiftly go through a couple of forms, then with little time to waste were whisked across the floor of the stadium to do some kicks and sparring. After this, it was time for the next group. This was the way it went for the entire day.

On one side you are afforded a glimpse on just how popular the sport is in Korea. Suncheon isn't a small city by Korean comparisons, but there sure were a lot of children and adults who piled into Palma Gym to test for their belt. Imagine 500 students testing for a black belt every month. That's a lot of black belts in Suncheon. Suncheon has given itself the nickname as 'The City of Beautiful People,' however it could have been more appropriately coined: 'The City of Black Belts, So Watch Out!'

What was even more interesting, was the atmosphere inside. Imagine going into a small, crowded arena and seeing a large congregation of five hundred strong punching, kicking, kyeoping(spell check,) stretching, and practicing. Also imagine fitting parents, grandparents, brothers, sisters, girlfriends and boyfriends with cameras as well. Korea can be a cozy place, and last Saturday was no exception.

As the day wore on, I was getting nervous. You see, including myself, there were only three foreigners testing. That meant that many eyes would fall upon us as we went through our routine. However, as the adults tested later, and most of the parents and children had departed, we managed to test in relative quietness. Despite that, there were more than a few curious onlookers to see how the 'waygook' would manage. The crowd who did watch us, was actually really supportive, which I found gratifying. As a foreigner in Korea you have to adjust yourself to be able to deal with a large amount of attention. Sometimes though, like on Saturday, it was a joy to be able to show off my kicks for curious onlookers. So if you find yourself with nothing to do next month, head over to Palma Gym in Suncheon and check out a black belt test.

It's Not Even Lunch Time!

This year I've had the good fortune to act as a type of diplomat from my country to a small handful of schools in this province. By default I am the lone American UNESCO Cross Cultural Awareness Presenter in Jellonamdo Province. I belong to a group of cultural presenters from a whole slew of nations from Canada to Nepal. Interestingly there are three representatives from Nepal, four from Bangladesh, and even three Canadians to boot! In this province alone there are approximately 40 or so individuals from different countries that give little presentations about their homeland, which gives Korean children a glimpse into the homes and lives of a variety of cultures from around the world. What's curious is that I'm the only American. I have no idea how that came to be. Americans seem to be so outgoing, and eager to share things about their country. How did I become the only one here?

Anyway, there are many things I don't understand, therefore adding another one to the list won't do much harm. More importantly, what I do essentially is travel to schools and talk about America. It's nothing special; some photos, a simple ditty on my acoustic guitar, a lesson in making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, pose for a few snapshots with the kids, then I go home. Well, actually I should backtrack a little before the going home bit and explain that I am obliged to go and meet the other teachers and principal at the school first before I am free to depart . It's a formality here, and it's gotta be done.

When entering a Korean school as a visitor one must always take note to greet the principal formally when entering, and in my case with these presentations when leaving as well. I always feel awkward when doing this, but I just keep smiling. Anyway, last Saturday I gave a little presentation to a group of fourth graders in Kwangju and as I was escorted to say goodbye to the principal and some other teachers, I was invited to the most enormous buffet at a non meal time I had ever seen. You see, it just before eleven o'clock. It was past breakfast, and everyone would most likely be eating lunch a couple of hours later. So here I was staring at a huge buffet of several types of chicken, tomatoes, grapes, rice cakes, beverages and so on. What is even more astonishing in retrospect for me at least is that I wasn't even the slightest bit surprised. In Korea, this is normal; it's business as usual. There is always food. As I'm an American, this is a good thing.

This happens quite frequently if you spend time in Korea. For example, any foreign teacher who goes through the volleyball ritual will know what I mean; Play a few sets, have some snacks, play one more, eat some of the take out food brought to the game, drink few cups of beer or rice wine and be merry, then go home and have dinner. Since this is typically done immediately after school, but before dinner time you can still meet up with friends and enjoy pizza in the evening.

Many times I'll go to dinner on a invitation from some hospitable Koreans, and later proceed to a bar or cafe to only be offered more food. Most bars have interesting menus that vary from fruit dishes to festive prawn and chicken platters, to even simple french fries. Additionally all cafes have at least several cake or other dessert choices. You can even find cheesecake. It's normal to have a Korean barbecue, then adjourn to a bar to have some fruit and snacks. Koreans seem to want to keep their guest happy, and one way of doing that is making sure there is an abundance of food available at all times. One should never go hungry here. It's impossible. I think if I had the chance to explain to American children about life in Korea I would make them all jealous by saying that Koreans have better snack times than Americans; and what American doesn't love snack time?

Lost and Found

Who doesn't forget those grand American barber shop experiences? The barbers with bowling shirts that are meant to be fashionable, the guys with one syllable names like; Mitch, Doug, and Nick(pun intended,) the incessant A/C blowing, and the omnipresence of aftershave aroma burning your nostrils. The alarming swiftness which those guys are able to finish cutting your hair with dangerously sharp scissors. Moreover, their ability to shape your hair with sharp things while watching sports on their five inch television located on the opposite side of the barber shop. I always admired their ability to squint at the television screen criticising Chris Mullin's dribbling abilities, or praising Mike Tyson's jabs while successfully cutting my hair. How could impressions like these ever escape anyone? At least I still remember these things. In addition, I remember in greater detail the day I went into a barber shop and came out with my bike stolen.

It was a warm, Saturday evening in July. I was 12, and I rode my white Skyway bmx style bike the two blocks to Castro Valley's Village Barber Shop to get the hair chopped. It was the normal monthly routine. I even had a nice lock for the bike that was shaped like a hook, which if it was used correctly the bike became impenetrable. Despite this, my laziness would be the determining factor in this instance. Since I would be sitting in a chair next to a widow, I had decided that I could leave the bike unlocked and unattended. So there I was watching baseball in the barber chair. This time it was Mike who was quickly snipping away, while commenting on the A's chances for the post season with that new Mark McGuire kid. We watched an inning or so, then I paid my ten bucks, took the free gum and opened the door to an empty, bike less sidewalk. I panicked a little, but didn't realize it was gone immediately. I popped back inside the barber shop and told the guys inside if they saw anyone with a bike. The customers inside said 'we saw nothin!' To make this long story short, the bike was stolen. It was stolen quickly and easily. The lesson here is that in small Californian towns children will steal other children's bikes more frequently than petty stoners in Amsterdam will steal a backpacker's bike.

More over, I think children stole a lot of things from me. I said goodbye to an innumerable amount of items when I was young. For example an expensive baseball jacket went missing a mere few days after I had received it as a birthday present. Children in America seem to have a itchy hand for other children's belongings, and if you leave something there for the taking, it will be nicked. Additionally, This mentality of snatching left behind items seems to cross over the age barrier in America too. It's only common sense that if you are an adult to keep an eye on your stuff.

My reason for writing this is that recently I've been thinking about these situations, because I've been noticing that I tend to be a bit absent minded, therefore I make it easier for things to go missing. Case in point, last week I brought my lab top computer to a soccer match. After the matched we adjourned to our traditional post match meeting spot in Shidae; the Mini-Stop 'patio'. It wasn't until a beer and an ice-cream later that I realized that my personal belongings seemed lighter than usual. My initial panic gave me the chills like I had a serious illness. After informing the soccer players of my recent misfortune, many of them shared my worries, although after a brief moment, one of the more seasoned individuals living in Korea stated that; this was Korea, and no one would take it.

It immediately felt reassuring. I've lived here for close to two years now, and I can actually attest to this notion that Koreans don't really steal so much is completely valid. I am not imparting that Koreans will never nick anything, but I can tell you from experience, that I feel at the least a hundred times more confident being an absent minded fool here in South Korea than I do in California. Anyway, I jumped in a taxi and went back to the stadium where another game was going on. I jogged straight to the sidelines and there on the bench in between several excited Korean players looking at me was my lab top. They knew immediately, which was easy to tell from their shouts of 'notebook, notebook, here here!' I didn't even have to go through the usual 'what color is it?' interrogation that we are accustomed to in America. I felt relieved to have something back so easily.

This isn't the first time I had forgotten something important behind in Korea only to have it exist in the same place when I returned either. I managed the same feat with a digital camera in a Norebong (karaoke room). Although some teenagers took the liberty of taking a few snapshots with it, they still left it there for their owner to collect it unscratched. I've also done the same with keys, mp3 players, shiny coffee mugs, and cell phones. In all of these instances the objects I had absently left behind have all been there collecting dust in the same location where I had left them. This wouldn't happen in America. If you disagree with me, go ahead; leave your bike in front of the barber's.


Ps...just this week alone my taekwondo teacher has left his keys in the ignition to his scotter downstairs in front of our dojon, only to come back an hour later both times to not only see his scotter there untouched, but also his keys safely in the ignition!!

Content in Court!

I have to admit that I am a curiously busy creature. Taekwondo, Music, Soccer, UNESCO presentations, avid reading, blogging, attempts at learning foreign languages, struggling to write a decent children's book in time before the coming millennium, and not to mention my job, are all activities that I partake in with some frequency during my weekly routine. Sometimes I marvel at the fact that I am able to eat-and sleep to boot! Yet, Despite my ability to survive under these relatively hectic circumstances, I must emphasize that it comes with some difficulty.


Oftentimes I will have the notion that what I am doing is rewarding, and my actions are helping me grow as a human. Moreover I find that all of the activities I do are endearing, and the mere actions of doing these things are gratifying. Who wouldn't like to to learn a martial art? What person would frown upon the good, honest exercise of kicking a soccer ball around? Wouldn't any normal person want to get that book idea on paper? Maybe my music, and blogging makes me a bit of a narcissist, but nonetheless I enjoy it and therefore continue with it. The only hurdle I face week in and week out of doing all of the things I enjoy of course is the hurdle of time. Time is one of life's great enemy's.


Since there is only so much of this precious thing called time, which Warren Buffet couldn't even afford to purchase, then we need to make the most of it. In order to do the things we want in life, we initially need to be ace time managers. It isn't easy for anyone, especially someone like myself-who also believes excess sleep is a healthy pursuit that should also be practiced by everyone. In addition I also believe in taking the time to eat at least one decent meal in a day. For this reason alone; it's good that I live in Korea. Now you might turn your nose up and say tut tut at what I am about to impart to you, but in Korea they actually have really tasty food courts, which offer cheap, healthy options.


From many years of experience of being an American, I have learned that one of the quintessential things about life in America is that there is a readily available supply of convenient cheap food. Like Koreans, American lives are proven to be just as busy, if not busier. So to attempt to shave off a few minutes, many of us Yanks will eat greasy fast food. It's the same cheap, greasy fast food that is offered daily at countless food courts across America. If you venture to a shopping mall in America you will see for yourself the array of time saving, calorie adding options that are readily available. Hot dogs on sticks with french fries, pizza slices with enough grease to clog several arteries, fried chicken, with fried cheesy sticks, and even more fried, cheesy type dishes. Despite the fact that this stuff ironically tastes pretty darn good, I think it is no secret that if you eat this kind of garbage every day, it will kill you. What's the use of saving time, if you are going to spend those remaining days in a hospital bed? Coincidentally, in Korea, their food courts have healthy time saving options. You'll spend more time doing the things you want, while eating quick healthy meals.



For example, at Kim's Club, which is conveniently located next to my apartment building, offers at least three or four dishes where the majority of the calories will be in the rice. In less than five minutes you can have a semi-spicy kinchi jigae (which is like a kimchi stew) for less than four dollars. You could also enjoy a semi-sweet bulgogi stew, which is like a beef stew. If you like spicy, or even really frigging spicy, sample the fiery tofu stew at about the same price. By the way your eyes aren't deceiving you. I really did say tofu. Tofu is astonishingly healthy, and it's readily available in many dishes in all food courts across Korea.



In Suncheon, I can immediately name four establishments that have food courts. It's not a large city, but there are plenty of dining options. Kim's Club is my top choice because it's the most accessible to me, and moreover I think the industrious cooks there give more of a personal touch to the dishes. Kim's Club is smaller and is frequented by less customers. Home Plus, E-Mart, and Home Ever all have food courts as well, but are busier, so the cooks there seem to just lash out meals faster with out paying too much attention to the details. Anyway, Each food court does has it's own unique atmosphere, yet the bottom line; like any food court is to save time. So if you come to Korea, and you find yourself in a food court here's some tips to make your order more successful.



First of all, you won't be approached by a waiter. This is fast food rules, so if you can't wait, no one will wait on you. You have to go to the main counter, which is usually located in front of where the informal seating area is. There is a large array of convenient displays of all the food dishes that offer help for anyone unable to read in Hangul. Once you have made your selection point at your dish, hand over your money and keep your receipt. The clerk will then inform you where to pick up your food. There are usually four or five restaurants in the food court area, and each one prepares a different style of food. On your receipt will be a little number. This will be the number of your order. Once your number comes up, go over and retrieve your food. Remember to say thank you too to the gracious hardworking woman who prepared it. If you get thirsty, just grab a metal cup from the water cooler, and pour yourself all the water you can drink. You'll need it, if the food's spicy.



So if you are a busy soul like myself, and you feel like you are always running from one point to another, remember that eating fast food indeed will save time. A stitch in time does save nine, but a stitch in time eating unhealthy fast food will require stitches to re-attach your broken buttons. If you aren't in Korea, and you are lured by unhealthy food courts then for your own health resist the temptation and find a supermarket.

A Harvest Moon

When I crawled out of bed from an uninterrupted twelve hour slumber on Sunday morning, I realized that the day seemed curiously silent. Despite the fact that Suncheon is a relatively small Korean city, it can be as noisy and as bustling as any large Western city. This is because Korea is simply full of life. Suncehon is like any other Korean city; that is, it's full of buzz twenty four hours a day. Cars like to toot their horns freely at all hours, sellers like to announce their products on giant loud speakers in the wee morning hours, and even a few late night revelers add to a normal mix of the outside atmosphere that deprives me of my beauty sleep. I have to say I was a little taken aback that I got so much sleep. I took a minute to make some coffee to wake myself up. Then I enjoyed the peace and quiet, and realized that this day was so quiet because it was Chuseok. For those of you not living here, Chuseok is a holiday.

It's celebrated during the full moon in the eighth month of the Korean lunar calendar. The holiday is actually observed for three days, but the first day is the most celebrated. Koreans typically travel to their hometowns and reunite with their families. Then they all travel to their ancestors' graves, which are giant mounds built on top of the earth, and then covered in grass. This is done in the morning. The family then brings out food as an offering to the deceased, after they bow and pay their respects. The families might picnic at the site as well, and later will pitch in to help tidy up the area around the grave site.

After this the family will return home and enjoy a feast. Chuseok is also sort of a harvest holiday. With most things in Korea food is important, and with a harvest holiday on top of everything, food is even more vital. The quintessential food is Song peon, which is a Korean style rice cake. These take hours to make, but are very tasty. They have a gummy texture to them, which might be strange for any newbie to Korea, but if you've lived here as long as an old pro like myself then they are appreciated. Moreover, Korea used to be a really poor country, so this was one time where people would enjoy food that they might not have had the luxury to taste at another time. These days, the country is economically stable, but regardless a nice meat dish would typically be served as well as some glass noodles, with plenty of spicy side dishes. In the evening Koreans might also take a walk to enjoy the harvest moon shining in the sky.

I think it's a nice holiday to have. It's essentially a day to honor deceased family members, and to celebrate the harvest in one holiday. Also, It's a time for overworked Koreans to take a break from their busy lives and see their families, as well as old friends. The bottom line is that this holiday is about family; living and dead. After they pay their respects, Koreans will have the next day off too. Which is splendid, because it gives them a little extra time to enjoy being together with their families before they fight the traffic back to their residential town.

I am trying to recall if we have any similar holiday in America, and I must admit, I am drawing a blank. We honor our country, God, fathers, mothers, soldiers, teachers, civil rights leaders, presidents, etc, but do Americans have a holiday to honor our families, the people that biologically made us? It would be nice to have one of these days too. Not to get too sidetracked, but I think we can have our own little Chuseok in America too, and it might even go over well.

One thing that I would enjoy at least would be the obvious; having a Monday off work. Who doesn't appreciate a work-less Monday? Doesn't everyone want another day where one isn't required to be someplace at a specific time, or have to face up to consequences. Who wouldn't like another Monday where you didn't need to worry about shaving and wearing a wrinkled shirt? Who wouldn't mind seeing a friend or family member over a long lunch, instead of looking at your watch while inhaling an Arby's Chicken Sandwich before getting back to the office? Regardless, I will tell you what I think. Time might be money, but time spent with friends and family is like gold, and we all could use a little time for that.