A Monthly Gathering

Last Saturday was one of the more anticipated days for me as a foreigner in South Korea. I have been practicing the mentally exhausting and physically draining sport of Taekwondo for over a year now, and I was finally given the opportunity to showcase my kicks and forms for my official black belt test. I had trained with a reasonably disciplined work ethic, and in the end I think it paid off. Since I am prone to give up on things prematurely I have to admit I am especially pleased to have accomplished something requiring effort. Moreover a black belt with my name in English and Korean would look cool on the mantelpiece.

As I worked diligently for the test, I had little difficulty. Regardless, I was surprised on how fast the actual test flew by anyway. You see, it wasn't just me going for a belt this Saturday. This was the monthly testing in Suncheon, which simply meant that it was an entire day affair with close to five hundred other testers including myself. The candidates for belts were led up in groups of ten to swiftly go through a couple of forms, then with little time to waste were whisked across the floor of the stadium to do some kicks and sparring. After this, it was time for the next group. This was the way it went for the entire day.

On one side you are afforded a glimpse on just how popular the sport is in Korea. Suncheon isn't a small city by Korean comparisons, but there sure were a lot of children and adults who piled into Palma Gym to test for their belt. Imagine 500 students testing for a black belt every month. That's a lot of black belts in Suncheon. Suncheon has given itself the nickname as 'The City of Beautiful People,' however it could have been more appropriately coined: 'The City of Black Belts, So Watch Out!'

What was even more interesting, was the atmosphere inside. Imagine going into a small, crowded arena and seeing a large congregation of five hundred strong punching, kicking, kyeoping(spell check,) stretching, and practicing. Also imagine fitting parents, grandparents, brothers, sisters, girlfriends and boyfriends with cameras as well. Korea can be a cozy place, and last Saturday was no exception.

As the day wore on, I was getting nervous. You see, including myself, there were only three foreigners testing. That meant that many eyes would fall upon us as we went through our routine. However, as the adults tested later, and most of the parents and children had departed, we managed to test in relative quietness. Despite that, there were more than a few curious onlookers to see how the 'waygook' would manage. The crowd who did watch us, was actually really supportive, which I found gratifying. As a foreigner in Korea you have to adjust yourself to be able to deal with a large amount of attention. Sometimes though, like on Saturday, it was a joy to be able to show off my kicks for curious onlookers. So if you find yourself with nothing to do next month, head over to Palma Gym in Suncheon and check out a black belt test.

It's Not Even Lunch Time!

This year I've had the good fortune to act as a type of diplomat from my country to a small handful of schools in this province. By default I am the lone American UNESCO Cross Cultural Awareness Presenter in Jellonamdo Province. I belong to a group of cultural presenters from a whole slew of nations from Canada to Nepal. Interestingly there are three representatives from Nepal, four from Bangladesh, and even three Canadians to boot! In this province alone there are approximately 40 or so individuals from different countries that give little presentations about their homeland, which gives Korean children a glimpse into the homes and lives of a variety of cultures from around the world. What's curious is that I'm the only American. I have no idea how that came to be. Americans seem to be so outgoing, and eager to share things about their country. How did I become the only one here?

Anyway, there are many things I don't understand, therefore adding another one to the list won't do much harm. More importantly, what I do essentially is travel to schools and talk about America. It's nothing special; some photos, a simple ditty on my acoustic guitar, a lesson in making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, pose for a few snapshots with the kids, then I go home. Well, actually I should backtrack a little before the going home bit and explain that I am obliged to go and meet the other teachers and principal at the school first before I am free to depart . It's a formality here, and it's gotta be done.

When entering a Korean school as a visitor one must always take note to greet the principal formally when entering, and in my case with these presentations when leaving as well. I always feel awkward when doing this, but I just keep smiling. Anyway, last Saturday I gave a little presentation to a group of fourth graders in Kwangju and as I was escorted to say goodbye to the principal and some other teachers, I was invited to the most enormous buffet at a non meal time I had ever seen. You see, it just before eleven o'clock. It was past breakfast, and everyone would most likely be eating lunch a couple of hours later. So here I was staring at a huge buffet of several types of chicken, tomatoes, grapes, rice cakes, beverages and so on. What is even more astonishing in retrospect for me at least is that I wasn't even the slightest bit surprised. In Korea, this is normal; it's business as usual. There is always food. As I'm an American, this is a good thing.

This happens quite frequently if you spend time in Korea. For example, any foreign teacher who goes through the volleyball ritual will know what I mean; Play a few sets, have some snacks, play one more, eat some of the take out food brought to the game, drink few cups of beer or rice wine and be merry, then go home and have dinner. Since this is typically done immediately after school, but before dinner time you can still meet up with friends and enjoy pizza in the evening.

Many times I'll go to dinner on a invitation from some hospitable Koreans, and later proceed to a bar or cafe to only be offered more food. Most bars have interesting menus that vary from fruit dishes to festive prawn and chicken platters, to even simple french fries. Additionally all cafes have at least several cake or other dessert choices. You can even find cheesecake. It's normal to have a Korean barbecue, then adjourn to a bar to have some fruit and snacks. Koreans seem to want to keep their guest happy, and one way of doing that is making sure there is an abundance of food available at all times. One should never go hungry here. It's impossible. I think if I had the chance to explain to American children about life in Korea I would make them all jealous by saying that Koreans have better snack times than Americans; and what American doesn't love snack time?

Lost and Found

Who doesn't forget those grand American barber shop experiences? The barbers with bowling shirts that are meant to be fashionable, the guys with one syllable names like; Mitch, Doug, and Nick(pun intended,) the incessant A/C blowing, and the omnipresence of aftershave aroma burning your nostrils. The alarming swiftness which those guys are able to finish cutting your hair with dangerously sharp scissors. Moreover, their ability to shape your hair with sharp things while watching sports on their five inch television located on the opposite side of the barber shop. I always admired their ability to squint at the television screen criticising Chris Mullin's dribbling abilities, or praising Mike Tyson's jabs while successfully cutting my hair. How could impressions like these ever escape anyone? At least I still remember these things. In addition, I remember in greater detail the day I went into a barber shop and came out with my bike stolen.

It was a warm, Saturday evening in July. I was 12, and I rode my white Skyway bmx style bike the two blocks to Castro Valley's Village Barber Shop to get the hair chopped. It was the normal monthly routine. I even had a nice lock for the bike that was shaped like a hook, which if it was used correctly the bike became impenetrable. Despite this, my laziness would be the determining factor in this instance. Since I would be sitting in a chair next to a widow, I had decided that I could leave the bike unlocked and unattended. So there I was watching baseball in the barber chair. This time it was Mike who was quickly snipping away, while commenting on the A's chances for the post season with that new Mark McGuire kid. We watched an inning or so, then I paid my ten bucks, took the free gum and opened the door to an empty, bike less sidewalk. I panicked a little, but didn't realize it was gone immediately. I popped back inside the barber shop and told the guys inside if they saw anyone with a bike. The customers inside said 'we saw nothin!' To make this long story short, the bike was stolen. It was stolen quickly and easily. The lesson here is that in small Californian towns children will steal other children's bikes more frequently than petty stoners in Amsterdam will steal a backpacker's bike.

More over, I think children stole a lot of things from me. I said goodbye to an innumerable amount of items when I was young. For example an expensive baseball jacket went missing a mere few days after I had received it as a birthday present. Children in America seem to have a itchy hand for other children's belongings, and if you leave something there for the taking, it will be nicked. Additionally, This mentality of snatching left behind items seems to cross over the age barrier in America too. It's only common sense that if you are an adult to keep an eye on your stuff.

My reason for writing this is that recently I've been thinking about these situations, because I've been noticing that I tend to be a bit absent minded, therefore I make it easier for things to go missing. Case in point, last week I brought my lab top computer to a soccer match. After the matched we adjourned to our traditional post match meeting spot in Shidae; the Mini-Stop 'patio'. It wasn't until a beer and an ice-cream later that I realized that my personal belongings seemed lighter than usual. My initial panic gave me the chills like I had a serious illness. After informing the soccer players of my recent misfortune, many of them shared my worries, although after a brief moment, one of the more seasoned individuals living in Korea stated that; this was Korea, and no one would take it.

It immediately felt reassuring. I've lived here for close to two years now, and I can actually attest to this notion that Koreans don't really steal so much is completely valid. I am not imparting that Koreans will never nick anything, but I can tell you from experience, that I feel at the least a hundred times more confident being an absent minded fool here in South Korea than I do in California. Anyway, I jumped in a taxi and went back to the stadium where another game was going on. I jogged straight to the sidelines and there on the bench in between several excited Korean players looking at me was my lab top. They knew immediately, which was easy to tell from their shouts of 'notebook, notebook, here here!' I didn't even have to go through the usual 'what color is it?' interrogation that we are accustomed to in America. I felt relieved to have something back so easily.

This isn't the first time I had forgotten something important behind in Korea only to have it exist in the same place when I returned either. I managed the same feat with a digital camera in a Norebong (karaoke room). Although some teenagers took the liberty of taking a few snapshots with it, they still left it there for their owner to collect it unscratched. I've also done the same with keys, mp3 players, shiny coffee mugs, and cell phones. In all of these instances the objects I had absently left behind have all been there collecting dust in the same location where I had left them. This wouldn't happen in America. If you disagree with me, go ahead; leave your bike in front of the barber's.


Ps...just this week alone my taekwondo teacher has left his keys in the ignition to his scotter downstairs in front of our dojon, only to come back an hour later both times to not only see his scotter there untouched, but also his keys safely in the ignition!!