Life O' Dan

Where's the Snow?

2011-12-29T09:07:00.001-08:00

One year ago there was so much snow in Warsaw. Where is it this year? I understand that bigger and more important things have happened over the year, and the lack of snow this winter is hardly worth a mention. Moreover, For me it is a welcome event as I’ve been able to go jogging a bit later in the year than usual, and I’ve been spared the sensation of experiencing the bitter cold when stepping outside at six o’clock in the morning on my way to work. Despite my small good fortune,it’s odd that the temperature is well above freezing, and that it still feels like autumn. I’m not complaining, I’m just saying it’s weird. It’s at least a little unusual, isn’t it?

Flash back to November 2010 and you might remember a different situation. I took a short walk in the afternoon and was nearly blinded and blown over by a freak snow and wind storm. A month later, I bravely went on a freezing holiday stroll through the lit up streets of Warsaw admiring all of the glowing lights and snow covered trees before Christmas. This year, the lights and trees are present, but there is not a flake of snow. See for yourself in my video.

An American in Wroclaw

2011-12-13T07:31:00.001-08:00

Two weeks ago was the American Film Festival in Wroclaw, Poland. In one venue for five days a variety of films of past and present from the indie arena and Hollywood were showcased to a thong of eager film enthusiasts. Retrospectives from directors such as; Billy Wilder and Terrance Malick, cutting edge indie-directors, silent films, jazz themed films, documentaries, as well as lectures and workshops, were all on offer for film lovers. As an American citizen and American film-enthusiast myself living in Warsaw, this seemed like a perfect opportunity for me to stretch my curious wings, poke my nose around a bit, and have a peek. So I did and because of this was far from disappointed. After purchasing nine tickets for screenings beforehand from the festival’s website, procuring a train ticket from Warsaw to Wroclaw, and booking a room at the modestly priced Hotel Polonia beforehand, I was ready to escape the capital of Poland and enjoy three days of unadulterated film enjoyment in the charming and scenic city of Wroclaw.

As Polish trains are notorious for being less than punctual, the train arrival in Wroclaw on Friday evening was no exception. In light of this arduous eight hour journey, I missed the first screening I had procured tickets for, which was Billy Wilder’s The Apartment. Steadfastly in my attempt replicate the first mishap of missing the first film, I dutifully hurried to check in at the Hotel Polonia and subsequently unloaded my luggage in an action not dissimilar to a hurried throwing motion across the room, and then set off for the festival, which was another 20 minutes on foot across town. Despite my hurried pace and following the map in meticulous fashion I ended up missing the start of the second film by about 15 minutes. Unfortunately, It was another Billy Wilder film, this time the film; One Two Three, which if you haven’t seen, you should. After missing this timeless film on the big screen, I soothed myself by thinking that at least I was in Wroclaw and was able to find the festival at Kino Helios in plenty of time before the third film, which was Robert Altman’s depression era jazz tribute Kansas City.
The plan had been to see nine films between Friday evening and Sunday morning. After missing the first two, the plan shrank to seven in three days. Because of this setback, I pledged that nothing was going to keep me constrained from seeing all seven. Anyway, after picking up my tickets and with an hour or so to kill before the late screening of the Robert Altman film, I decided to saunter over to the square a few blocks away and find something for my empty stomach. After enjoying a deep dish pizza, and a strong coffee, I made my way back to the cinema. After finding a seat in the partially full screening room, I was able to be entertained by the first of seven films.

After a long series of adverts I was able to enjoy Altman’s film, which was quite entertaining. However, I would have to admit it fell quite short of a masterpiece. Nevertheless, Kansas City is a must see for anyone interested in depression era life, or the Jazz scene in Kansas City during this era. The acting is lively and entertaining, but Jennifer Jason Leigh’s charm didn’t win me over as I
thought her performance was bit over the top. Nevertheless, my pickiness aside, it was a highly enjoyable first film to inaugurate my weekend movie marathon. After the journey to Wroclaw and the two hour film, it was sleepy time.

Saturday proved to be much more promising. After waking up at a respectable hour and having a hearty breakfast in the hotel’s restaurant, I was charged to enjoy an entire day of film enjoyment. The plan was to see five films this day. The first film was Buster Keaton’s ‘The General,’ which started at 9:45. I miraculously found myself at the festival at 9am, which left enough time to enjoy a third coffee to compliment the two I had consumed at the hotel previously. The screening room was disturbingly only half full. You see, it is my opinion that The General is one of the greatest films ever made. So, if a film like the General plays on the big screen, one would expect more in the audience. However, I guess, filling any people in a cinema at 9:45 on Saturday is an accomplishment in itself. There is not much I can really say that hasn’t been said about this masterpiece. Except for the fact that a new musical score was added to this festival print, which was quite memorable. If you haven’t seen ‘the General,’ I recommend this re-release of the original 1927 version with a new musical score.

Four movies, a kebab, and a platter of fish and chips later, I found that it was nearly midnight. After watching the recent Phillip Seymour Hoffman film, two Terrance Malick films, and Billy Wilder’s Sunset Boulevard, I was exhausted. It was an eventful day that could be written about for too long to bore the average blog reader to death. Nevertheless, I must be said that after this full day, my highlight was a re-discovery of the brilliance of Billy Wilder films. For those only familiar with his most famous film ‘Some Like it Hot,’ should really take the time to see his lesser known films.

Sunday, I even managed to make it over in time to see another Billy Wilder film. This time it was a courtroom drama with mixture of British wit, American fast talking, and the screen seductiveness of Marlene Dietrich in the plot-twisting film ‘Witness for the Prosecution.’ I highly enjoyed it, but the biggest surprise for me was Sunset Boulevard, which finished with a loud and quite spontaneous applause the day before. My biggest recommendation would be to see this film. The awarded films from the festival were the indie film ‘Somewhere Tonight,’ and the documentary ‘Sing your Song.’ The most popular attraction was the Todd Solondz retrospective and his appearance at the festival. All of these attractions I skipped in favor of watching older films. Watching older films on the big screen is purely a selfish activity based on the fact that I prefer having a chance to see black and white films on the big screen. Nevertheless, the newer films were definitely the more popular options.

After swiftly making my exit from Kino Helios, I boarded the EC train to Warsaw promptly at 1:45, which was only 15 minutes late for a change. I’m already counting down the days to the next festival, which is probably too soon.

Are You Ready for Some Schnitzel?

2011-06-28T13:40:00.000-07:00

For many guys back home in the States, the tradition of Monday Night Football is something that has always been close to our hearts as something to cheer us up a bit after surviving the drudgery of another dismal Monday working day. It’s been a part of American culture for as long as I can remember anyway, which is getting longer as each day passes. For 16 weeks a year there is always Monday Night Football. That means during this period there is always a chanced to escape and relax a bit after the short weekend. However, if you’re a guy in the states, it’s too bad you don’t live in Poland for Monday night schnitzel and beer night at U Szwejka (at Szwejk’s) in Warsaw. Here it's not only about escaping, but it's like getting another weekend evening getting added to our life. Sorry, but Mondays in Poland are better for the guys (and girls too).

Read the following information with caution. May cause hunger!

Imagine, cutting board sized Vienna style schnitzel steaks coated in bread crumbs, with fresh lemon juice, a side of sour kraut, red cabbage, served with French fries, for a mere 15 zlotys (five dollars). Sound good? Then come to Warsaw on Mondays. If you’re not convinced yet(and shame on me for not mentioning this yet,) the best part is that the beer is on special on Mondays. One liter of Czech Pilsner Uriquell, or Polish Tyeskie, will only set you back 7.50 Zl. (two dollars and fifty cents). You can procure a full liter on Monday nights for less than a half liter will cost you in other pubs. If you come to Paris for the proverbial romantic weekend getaway, make a stopover in Warsaw on your way home.

The Czech style restaurant is fashioned in tribute to the Hasek novel “The Good Soldier Sviejk,” which is partly a World War I satire centered around the tribulations of the central character Svejk. When reading the novel, Svejk immediately might seem harmless and fun loving to the reader, which in a way characterizes the restaurant’s fun and gregarious atmosphere. A friendly place, which offers a cozy and convivial setting that would impress the grandest of Czechs-even Svejk himself.

It’s crowded though, so don’t expect a free table on arrival. The plethora of servers whizzing around bringing giant beer mugs to tables are friendly enough and will help you find a table if one is free. Normally though, be ready for a bit of a line outside the door. However, we’re usually sitting in a table in ten minutes tops after turning up.

By the way, some of us teachers have started a little club. It’s called the Szwejka Monday Night Schnitzel Club. This is no April fools joke. It's no ruse. We’re on facebook. We have members. We’re growing in numbers. We mean business. We can all attest to the fact that it’s better than Monday Night Football as well. Give us the Pepsi Challenge. We unanimously choose Szwejk over NFL on TV on Mondays. Join us. Come for the Schnitzels, and stay for the beer(s). Oh and by the way, girls are welcome too. They also have 10zl (three dollar) strawberry margaritas.

367 Days and Counting

2011-06-06T14:35:00.001-07:00

In just about one year Warsaw won’t only be the capital of Poland accommodating close to 2,000,000 residents, but the city will also play host to European Football Championship. From today in fact, the kickoff will be in 367 days. This means, well a lot. More specifically though, it means people of all European walks of life, all shapes, sizes and beer preferences will be traveling here to root for their respective nation’s football club. As a reminder to myself, I plan to stay out of their way. Anyway,it means that in addition to the normally hectic pace of life around these parts, and as a foregone conclusion thousands of football fanatical tourists will be struggling to find a hotel room and a bar seat on lively Nowy Swiat. Oh, and yes, the brand spanking new national stadium is also expected to be open for business.

Seating 55,000, boasting 4 mega restaurants, a massive glass roof to protect the bellowing fans in the winter, close to 900 restrooms, and an ultra modern design showcasing a 100 foot tower reaching out into the sky, the soon to be finished stadium will rival any other major stadium built in Europe. Of course it just has to finish before June 2012. According to Sports and Tourism Minister Adam Giersz, it is the Symbol of the Euro 2012 project, which is being co-hosted by Poland and the Ukraine.

It’s no secret. Rising out of the sky as one traverses by tram across the Vistula River, the stadium under construction will catch the attention of any curious or out of town passenger. The construction site now looks as if something truly grand might just grace Warsaw with a truly magnificent treasure any time soon. It just has to finish before kickoff for the opening match in June 2012. Go to the website and chart the progress for yourself. The website is chalked full of interactive gadgets to keep you busy for a while, and you can even check out my video from a week ago.

http://www.stadionnarodowy.org.pl/index.php?lang=en

A Kafkaesque Experience

2011-02-11T11:34:00.000-08:00

What is a Kafkaesque experience exactly? I’ve read The Metamorphosis, and to me I got the impression that one goes through a process of feeling less and less significant and relevant as time passes. Then you finally you get squished and no one cares. That’s life. Luckily, this wasn't what happened to me when I went to Café Kafka by the University library last week.

This is what my Kafkaesque experience was like. To start, unlike visits to Starbucks and other mega-coffee houses, I was treated like an anonymous customer, which was a pleasant change. There was no chirpy Starbucks banter greeting me as I approached the cash register, no ultra-clean Coffee-Heaven Uniformity, and no there were no prices on the cakes in the display case. I went inside, as one of the handful of available mellow employees while calmly, almost surreptitiously took my order, and invited me park myself in a comfortable seat where I would be served a welcoming cup of coffee by another amicable, yet reserved resident coffee maker. I got nothing spectacular, just a simple coffee. Or a cup of Kafka with a small flask of warm milk. For a coffee house these days simplicity was a pleasant surprise.

What’s interesting though is the atmosphere. A wall of books (which are for sale by the kilo,) a random wall of antlers, furry bar-stool seats near the window, a disorganized colorful chalkboard menu, a pile of board games, cartoon posters, and black and white tile floors, which in sum gave me the feeling that I was back in Berkeley in the mid 90’s before average Americans got the infections coffee bar buzz and before everything got all corporate.

It was almost like everything had been recycled. Café Kafka is a testament to all those places that don’t exist anymore in America, and will slowly be erased by the mega-coffee franchises globalizing their way to a neighborhood near you. If you want a quiet place for a chat, bury yourself in your book or lab-top or want an escape from the typical coffee scene in Warsaw, then metamorphisize yourself and opt for something simpler.

Out For Some Air!

2010-12-12T13:37:00.000-08:00

After a spell of an unusually cold and snowy introduction to the winter, there was a brief pause in the frigid temperatures this weekend. As a matter of fact, It was just brief enough to pop out for a stroll down Novy Swiat and on through the old town in Warsaw to see Christmas lights and other ornate decorations in all of its phosphorescence.

Most of the Downtown of Warsaw is strung up with Christmas lights, and it's hard not to notice the large array of shiny decorated lights everywhere you walk. If you're feeling cooped up from the recent cold temperatures, a good way to confront the loneliness is to bundle up and step out for some fresh air in the old town, and to have a look at the well decorated streets in all its Christmas glory. The best way is to start from the Three Crosses Church, and continue on Nowy Swiat and down through Krakowskie Przedmiescie past the Presidential Palace. From here just follow the crowd to the Castle. Check out the gargantuan tree flashing as you approach. From there it's just a few steps to the home stretch on the square, where you can warm yourself with some hot wine from one of the kiosks at the Christmas Market. Have a look at my video from the journey!

How to Go Back to School When You Are Old

2010-12-03T12:16:00.000-08:00

There is one word I often associate with myself, and those who know me probably associate me with the word too. That word is naive. Case in point, despite graduating from a relatively esteemed University in Northern California, I have to admit, going back to school after a ten year proverbial lost weekend has been a lot more challenging than I could have ever predicted. Despite reading enough books over the past ten years to fill a small apartment, and having more than enough motivation to pursue a graduate degree, I’ve encountered a few problems coping with the first year back in school. Getting back into the groove of school wasn’t easy. It would be naive to think it would be.

Why was I naive? I can give you two reasons. The first was that I thought my life experience would overcompensate for the fact that I wasn’t the best student during my bachelor’s studies. The second reason is that I didn’t have any clue on how to study effectively when I started last year. I was too ambitious and I tried to read everything required for the course, but I wasn’t able to focus on the most relevant themes or ideas. Additionally, since I didn’t consider changes in technology over the past ten years, I wasn’t able to save that precious time that could have been saved by consulting the internet.

This is not to say I have been completely unsuccessful. I am still managing high marks, and maintaining a pleasant and quite informal rapport with my classmates and professors. As a bonus I seem to get along with everyone. In one sense, having old school manners helps in some respects, it’s one of my advantages. It is true, my likeableness has always been a plus, and that is one of my good qualities. Even better, on another positive note; currently looking back at the first year, I have evolved into a more realistic and effective student. After a daunting first year, the second academic year feels more breathable, and I should manage to finish with decent enough marks

Nevertheless, in the beginning, the first year of coming back to school for me was a wake- up call in several aspects. So if you’re mulling over your inner voice calling you to pursue a two –year master’s degree after a decade or more long break from school, then don’t fret! For now simply pay heed to some simple advice to make the beginning less problematic for you, so you won’t find yourself as lost as I was.
Of course, the most important change over the last ten years has been the speed and availability of the internet, and everything that goes with it. Ten years ago, I had (barely) an internet connection, but I wasn’t connected in today’s sense. The Wiki-world ten years ago it wasn’t. Doing research ten years ago back in the late 90’s required a little more leg-work. Therefore, searching for knowledge took a bit more effort. For technophobes like me, it sometimes seems counter-intuitive to just search whatever is being researched on the net. To make a long story short, I have learnt to embrace the internet instead of shy away from it. Everybody else is doing it, you should too!

However, be forewarned. With the internet comes all the information you would ever need-and don’t! Joseph Nye has a famous quip called ‘the paradox of plenty,’ meaning that there is a swarm of information infesting us these days that you need to pay heed to legitimacy and academic appropriateness of it to do proper research. With an overabundance of information, your source can be more important than the material itself. For this, simply googling something might not be enough for gathering materials for thesis writing. The main search engines such as Google and yahoo are more often used for commerce, but building scholarship can be difficult through these engines. I have discovered places like J-Store and Pro-Quest search engines, which are solely academic sites, and are more trusted with doing research. The University Libraries should have these installed in their computers. Regardless, the best advice is to always consider how reliable your source is. These days with the internet everyone can pass as an expert!

Yet, as you know not everything you learn will exist over the internet. One will eventually have to read a book or two. Recalling my first world politics class, I can attest that I had to read a plethora of them. The reading comprehension wasn’t the difficult part. What really tortured me were my weak time management skills. For me, everything is interesting, yet when learning academically, one really needs to know what is relevant and what isn’t. As was the problem when I had to read a lengthy article and give a short presentation on one main idea. My fault was that I read the article and summarized every single idea the author had written. My task was to give a short analysis on Kissinger’s reasons for the end of the Cold War.

What my result was to say the least-different. The professor wanted a short and sweet, albeit direct summary of the fore mentioned topic, alas I presented my fifteen page summary of the entire article which consisted of me giving a boring lecture of every treaty and meeting between the 1970’s and 1980’s between the USA and the Soviet Union. The problem was that in reading everything, I wasted a lot of time, and wasn’t able to pin-point the main idea clearly, which is kind of the point in academic life-getting the main idea. We all have ideas, but to study someone else’s ideas you need to understand them.

I had a bumper sticker on my car once that said; ‘the truly educated never graduate.’ I consider myself educated, I can’t tell you how truly although I’m still learning. What’s truly interesting though about learning, is peeling away some of the layers, and understanding that the learning process is educational itself. Regardless, I tell everyone that if I won the lottery, I’d always study. Learning is important. For what end, it’s hard to say. We’re all different. Maybe I’m naïve, but learning isn’t really a bad thing.

Below is a short interview with a couple of my younger but more successful classmates!

An Early Winter

2010-12-01T00:36:00.000-08:00

Author and New York Times Foreign Corespondent Thomas Friedman in a recent article called our current epoch of radically changing weather conditions 'global weirding.' For me it's an honest expression, without any political connotations. It doesn't imply much, other than the fact that hey, weird things have been happening with the weather.

Take Warsaw for instance. Maybe it isn't exactly weird for you, but for a Californian boy, it's odd to see so much snow before December. In my own bemusement, I spent a cold afternoon documenting some of this weirdness in Warsaw. Winter has come early here.

My Fair Lady of Warsaw

2010-11-05T12:58:00.000-07:00

Warsaw is a city that has no shortage of symbols. Chopin, Copernicus, and the historically appreciated statue of General Pilsudski stoically standing guard near Plac Bankowy are just to name a few. They are all appreciated and iconic in their own right. Yet, none seems to grace Warsaw with their presence in such a refined and graceful way as Syrena the Mermaid.

The legend of the mermaid is normally attributed to the sea, however in Warsaw it is another matter entirely. Syrena the fair lady of the capital resides permanently in numerous locations. For example she can easily be recognized on the square and on Swietokrzyski Bridge near the University library. Her permanent stature there wielding sword and shield is a symbol of beauty and guidance. Moreover, in a more transitory context you can see the permeating beauty of Warsaw on busses and trams as you guide your way around the center. She will also be the symbol for the 2012 Euro Football Championship, which will be co-hosted by Poland and the Ukraine.

The legend is that she helped Prince Kazimierz find his way during a hunting expedition by firing burning arrows into the sky. After finding his way, I hope he thanked her. Regardless, the original statue is in a museum, where the model for the statue was actress Krystyna Krahelska.

What's about to Hatch in Warsaw?

2010-09-14T08:34:00.000-07:00

A couple of weeks ago a giant sized egg appeared in front of my work. How did it get there? Who hatched this odd monstrosity? Anyway, after taking a few minutes peeking inside, I noticed that it was an ingenious display of a modern ecological community in action. In side of the tiny peepholes, one can gander at a mix of a variety of activities occurring in an environmentally safe world. Also, what's even more interesting is that it becomes interactive. With a touch of a button, you can make a windmill turn, or make a bird cross over a modern lake house. Pushing the magic buttons can even control the direction of movement of a little farmer checking out the affairs of his property. Indeed, it's little things like this that keep me entertained, and since it's next to my employer(see shameless plug in video), things like this will also make me late for work. For that I sincerly apologize for my tardiness. I'll be there soon.

Chopin in the Sun

2010-09-05T07:30:00.000-07:00

This year, 2010 is the 200th birthday of Chopin. Obviously he isn’t kicking around in physical form, but in Warsaw his music is alive and well. Actually, I need to back up a tad. Come to think of it, technically part of him does physically exist in Warsaw-his heart, which is buried in a church across from the University. Nevertheless, Chopin is as much as a symbol of the Polish nation as any national hero can be anywhere on the planet. They named the airport after him! We’re talking John Wayne status.

Kidding aside, what’s even better is that his music is just as beloved everywhere else in the world as it is here in Poland. Therefore, it’s your loss if you have never taken the time to enjoy his music. Also, if you are not a classical music fan, then listening to Chopin might actually make you one. Moreover, if you are a music lover, but haven’t had the pleasure to listen to his amazing piano creations, then you should at least pick up a CD.

What would be even better though, if you find yourself here during the summer you could treat yourself to one of the free Chopin concerts in Lazienki Park? If you haven’t had the chance, there is still time until the 25th of September. The performances are at 12:00, and 4pm. If the weather disappoints, the music won’t. Even gazing at the imposing statue of Chopin next to the stage is an experience. If you can’t make it in time, there is a plethora of Chopin exhibits and concerts all over Warsaw this year to commemorate his 200th birthday.

Regardless, as free summer concerts go, this one was a pleasant surprise. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend a summer afternoon in a European capital than listening to Chopin concertos and lazing in the sun. It was definitely a few notches up the proverbial musical staff than the disappointing Orange Festival in Warsaw last week. In grading, Chopin received an A sharp, but alas many would give the Orange Festival an F minor. Anyway,that is neither here nor there. As an extra FYI, please enjoy the video posted below of the free concert we went to last month.

And, if you want, you can check out the concerts here online: www.koncertychopinowskie.pl

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A City in Ruins

2010-08-27T08:16:00.000-07:00

Imagine going on a fly-along in 1945 over the Vistula River after Warsaw was obliterated b y the Germans. Picture to yourself the sight before you of an entire horizon of decimated and ruined buildings. The wreckage itself is a potent reminder of the harsh realities of war. Worse, is the reality that the city which was home to 1.3 million residents just before the war, was left with approximately 1000 survivors after the war.

Today, I saw for myself how the end of World War II unfolded in Poland. A current exhibit at the Warsaw Uprising Museum is showcasing a 3D film of aerial footage of Warsaw after it was annihilated by the Germans in 1945. For 7 zlotys you can see it too. The film’s footage is essentially a recreation of Warsaw in 3D. The city which was meticulously recreated, gives on the feeling of being on a sweeping flyover in the past. For five minutes you see nothing but a crumbled mass of a once thriving capital. The film, despite being short, is effective at proving as a grim reminder of the destruction caused in Warsaw.

The result of the destruction is rooted in the Warsaw uprising, and the Russia’s failure to help the Polish Army in attacking the occupying Nazi’s. On August 1st 1944, the Polish Home Army launched a strategic attack on the occupying Nazi army, while hoping the approaching Soviet Army would relieve some of the burden on the Poles to the strong opposition of the Nazi’s. However, despite waiting on the opposite bank of the Vistula River for some time, the Soviet Army refused to intervene until the Germans completely destroyed Warsaw.

After the war, Warsaw was in ruins. The Soviet Army occupied Warsaw, and Poland, and thus, the beginning of Poland’s division from the West. It’s hard to imagine now sitting in a Starbucks just a few meters from the museum, how much has actually changed in such a short time. Speaking of modernity, here's the link to the trailer posted on Youtube. Also, take a peek at some of the photos I took during my brief visit to the museum.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHYo8HBTHVA

Touristy but Must Re-visit!

2010-07-18T08:18:00.000-07:00

Maybe it is because of the fact that I have been living in Warsaw for the last year, that I wasn’t initially prepared for the intensity of the tourist commotion transpiring in front of my own eyes throughout the tourist center of Krakow. I felt like I was in another country. Who were these people selling sight-seeing tours of the city center? What were those convivial electronic cars zooming between the square and Wawel Castle? How did all of these British and Spanish tourists end up here? How come Warsaw doesn’t have a tourist information office on each of the four corners corner of the square? Warsaw has visitors in droves, but where are the tourists?

Warsaw is a city with its share of foreigners, but is lacking the no nonsense, picture snapping, and bustle so familiar in Krakow. Yes! Ironically, Krakow is less than half the size of Warsaw, yet for swallowing tourists, it has become a city with an ever expanding waist line. Despite the fact that there is a rather large congregation of tourists in the city-center of Krakow these days, it still doesn’t spoil the fact that it is indeed a grand historical and majestically stunning city worthy of spending at least few days taking in the wonders of this charming 12th Century European settlement.

If you've met me you know it's true that there aren’t many things I can attest to, however, I have spent a lot of time in Krakow and after seeing it grow in popularity over the last decade I am able to impart some information to you. You should be here too. Even back in 2002 Krakow wasn’t a secret. The city was full of tourists. Unlike Warsaw, the city survived the war, then after 1989 the iron curtain rusted and collapsed; tempting folks from all walks of life to venture unreservedly and discover the once mysterious post soviet world and inevitably becoming bewitched by Krakow.

As I’ve said Krakow is no secret, nonetheless it needn’t be. It is true however that I am neither historian nor travel expert, yet am a creature who has resided in Poland long enough to have a feel for the different towns and cities here. That being said, if you are a bloke like me who has settled here for a time, and are thinking weather Krakow is worth visiting despite the huge amount of tourist interest, I can at least offer you some piece of mind, and urge you to waste little time and hop on an express train while the weather is hot, and the day light is long.

This is Poland, right? As Krakow offers the best of Poland, it’s a foregone conclusion that there is at the very least a magnificent square, with a surplus of cafes and restaurants lining the square beckoning visitors of all walks of life to soak up the summer while it’s here. This is what I like anyway- bathing in the ambiance of cities, (and sipping a few cold zywiec.) At the very least if you are anything remotely like me in the sense that you have been living in Poland for a while, and possess a tendency to duck out of the tourist traps, you still need to hop on your high horse and visit Krakow. Touristy places exist here, but so do some of the most important historical sites in the entire world.

Even if you are a lifer expat in Poland who isn't interested in crowds, and who has already walked down Ulica Florianska whilst being prone to strong bouts of tourist apprehensiveness, Krakow is still worth a second or third visit. Besides, you're in Poland, it isn't January, and the sun is shining. Time is of the essence this summer! What are you waiting for?

An Easy Boycott!

2010-05-18T09:22:00.000-07:00

Last week during an NGO lecutre, the topic of Greenpeace protesting Nestle because of their choice of location for procuring palm oil to add to their chocolate came up. If there is anyone who is an avid fan of devouring both white and dark chocolate forms of kitkat, it would be me. Nevertheless, a thought dawned on me that day that I had never formally boycotted any product. So with a gusto, I officially withdrew myself from consuming thier chocolate products. I conveniently switched to non-nestle brands in Poland*

Luckilly, I came across an article today that the monkeys' will be given a break in the amazon, while Nestle conducts palm oil purchases elsewhere! Say what you will about Greenpeace, I'll be enjoying my KittKat's again!

*Another decadent, gooey chocolate found in Poland is the famous Lion Bar..it's Nestle

Liberty in North Korea Presentation Links!

2010-05-04T07:09:00.000-07:00

The first link is a one hour presenation from 2008, the second is a two minute news boradcast. The third link is the link to the link website-that's three links for link!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ms4NIB6xroc&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QaktifOSPM

http://www.linkglobal.org/

Thoughts about April in Poland

2010-05-02T07:13:00.000-07:00

April was a difficult time in Poland. A plane carrying 96 Polish citizens crashed in Russia. On the plane were; their president, top generals, the head of the central bank, key politicians, advisors, religious leaders, cultural figures, pilots, and flight attendants. They were on a plane to commemorate a sad moment in Polish history. Sadly, in a way, it seemed like a cruel joke, but there is no punch-line it really happened.

The crash initiated a spontaneous outpouring of grief. Polish citizens came out in the tens of thousands of all ages with flowers and candles to lay at the presidential palace. This marked off a weeklong period of mourning, which sparked a flood of citizens to lay tribute to the victims. An ensuing media circus circulated around Warsaw day and night, flags hung over buildings at half mast (two black flags blew in front of the gates of the University,) and the world gave its condolences as the international arena was respectively at a loss for words.

Poland is a nation that has had a lot of misfortune historically. In recent times things had been going well here. Yet, there was an unusually long cold winter this year, and this event happened just as it was getting into spring. It was like the gods were not over with handing down to Poland unwanted and unfortunate news.

Despite this, looking over the past month, I must admit I am impressed to see how well this nation has dealt with this tragedy. So much has already been reported, analyzed, updated, and cited. Yet, as visitor to Poland living through this, I would like to humbly add how impressed I am at how a relatively large European nation has been able to get back on its feet and show amazing resilience.

On a human level, it’s unfathomable to lose so many people in such a sudden manner. The memory of the victims will always be enshrined in Polish history. Yet Poland has always been regarded as a strong nation, and the strength comes from its people. After this catastrophe, the nation is as strong as ever.

Something Strange on my Neck

2010-02-19T12:34:00.000-08:00

A short while ago I popped outside to pick up a couple of bottles of water from the shop on the corner. I took the necessary February precautions one would take in Warsaw by putting on my thick jacket, scarf,gloves, punctuated by a woolly hat. Even for me, it has almost become a reflex before opening the front door. If you have been living here like me for the last two months you would understand. You see, this winter has brought an incredible amount of snow.

There has been so much of it falling from the sky, that it has been regarded by many as one of the heaviest snowfalls in Warsaw in a generation. I can attest to it as well. Garbage cans have been buried in single evenings, park benches have gone missing, cars have been fishtailing in a manner not unsimilar to automobiles climbing steep mountain passes in the winter, the floors of buses have ceased to be cleaned and are all covered by muddy slop left over from our snow absorbed boots. Despite this unprecedented level of sloshiness, it came as a huge shock to me that when I ventured outside today, I didn't feel snow on my neck, but something at the same time familiar, but completely different-rain. Can you believe it? It seems that the temperature has done something that hasn't happened in a few months around here; gone above zero centigrade. Anyway, it seems like spring is a possibility-even in these parts. Now I just have to find my raincoat.

A New Resident in 2010!

2010-01-03T11:43:00.000-08:00

Dear Reader,

Are you out there? Have you wandered off down another corridor in the blogosphre? Shame, shame, shame! Anyway, I'm still kicking around, and am grateful and indebted to anyone with the patience and curiosity to tune in and see what I have been up to these days.

Instead of giving you the typical paragraph,anecdotal style run-down of my life over the last two or three months, I am going give you a chronological list of things that have been thrown at me that I have been trying to manage more or less mildly successfully since October or so.
1.) Started School-M.A. program in International Relations.
2.)Became so busy all of a sudden with work. Ironically when I became a student, everyone in Warsaw decided during the same week to learn English from me.
3.)received a legal form saying the police would come interview me for my residence status.
4.)cops came and were nice.
5.)Came to a realization that studying International Relations wasn't easy while teaching English.
6.)after a misunderstanding regarding my paperwork in order to live in Poland as a legal resident, i was told at the last minute to leave Poland and the Schengen area to get a new stamp in my passport.
7.)after being told that The Ukraine wasn't a good place to go to because of swine flu, I was advised it would be wiser to go to England(a non-schengen country.)
8.) Was detained by the UK authorities because they said I was violating EU law and working in the EU illegally, and promptly sent back to Poland after spending the night in a detention room*
9.)after being told that I was a 'polite bloke,' by the UK authorities, they escorted me to my plane back to Poland and informed the pilot to tell the Polish customs officers to go easy on me when they detain me.
10.)taken off the Ryan-Air plane in Poland and interrogated as to why I was detained in the UK, but after everyone(including myself,) that no one had any idea why I was detained, I was set free.
11.)Despite the fact that I was a free man, I only had one legal day left to stay in Poland, so two days of little to no sleep, I jumped on a bus to the Ukraine-a non-Schengen country to try again to get a visa stamp.
12.)went to the Ukraine for two days. Had a nice time, drank cheap beer, stayed in a cheap run down hotel, and had a nice meal.
13.)Came back to Poland and got a new visa stamp for 90 days.
14.)got really sick-probably swine flu
15.)tons of homework/presentations/mid-terms etc.
16.)received decision on Residence Card-Approved!
17.)Became totally burnt out.
18.) Went to Opole for Christmas, had a relaxing time, and wrote one of 3 term papers.
19.)Picked up residence card and had a happy new year.
20.)enjoying last days of vacation before I go back to Work on Tuesday and begin exams next month!!

So that's all for now. I have been one busy creature, but it's better to be busy than bored. I'm definitely got a lot to do. I'm even technically wasting time writing here. Anyway, I'm not bored, so I'm better off than most!

*I still wouldn't recommend being detained by the UK Immigration officials at Stansted Airport.

Here's your moment of zen- a bus in the Ukraine!

Last Week

2009-10-20T11:40:00.000-07:00

Something happened last week that I had thought would totally never happen. Nevertheless it did. Keep in mind last week was only the second week of October. Also keep in mind that October is the fall. As it is fall, leaves turn color, people bundle up(a bit,)and we use adjectives like; fresh, brisk, and cool. We normally stagger out of bed and peer at the frosty air greeting us before you journey out into the post summer rain on the way to work. Despite this, last week these things we all expect didn't happen. Watch the video and find out what really happened!

In Celebration of our 50th Post and 5000th visitor!

2009-09-21T04:33:00.000-07:00

Well, I've been in the business of keeping a positive attitude, whilst saying nice things about people and places for just over a year now. I have also tried to make the most of my paltry photography skills to show some of what I have seen around the the globe to show you that the world is truly a friendly place, and deserves to be enjoyed more. Recently, I have noticed that I have had about 5000 visitors. So to those people, thanks and keep coming back. Interestingly, this will also be my 50th post. So if you're a numbers person, that makes it a tidy 100 people per posting. Not a bad gig.

Regardless in the spirit of hopping the proverbial fence and escaping out into the great mysterious, I have chosen a few of my favorite pictures to share with you of my own experiences over the last year and a piece. I have included people I have met, places I have seen, and food that was consumed in dangerous portions. Thanks for tuning in, Dan

What's Burning?

2009-09-12T04:45:00.000-07:00

One of my good pals in Warsaw, Mohamed, who is from Iran, told me that it is forbidden to make outdoor fires in Iran. It's ironic, since he and his other Iranian mates in Warsaw like nothing more than going to various parks in Warsaw and building gargantuan,roasting fires for grilling. Despite the fact that many Poles(Warsawians included,) like to partake in outdoor grilling adventures, I have also heard that it is in fact quite popular to have grilled food with fires in Iran as well. Even though it's 'illegal' in Iran, it's a pastime partook by most law abiding Iranians.

Moreover, even though myself as an American claim to be one of those west coast barbecue savants, I have to regretfully admit that I got nothing on these Iranian grill experts. Where did these guys learn to cook like this? It's a strange notion for me. If somethng's illegal, then in most cases it isn't done. Anyway, it's just a campfire.

So last Wednesday (for some strange reason) I had the day off, and set out with Mohamed to Powsien park in Warsaw for an Iranian grilling adventure. Usually we cook up chicken or lamb concoction, but this time Mohammed managed to procure some minced beef. With the beef he added some curry spice, pepper and egg. When this was finished; he mixed it all up, smashed it together a bit, produced some metal Iranian kebab sticks, then carefully rolled the meat on the sticks. Once on the fire the kebab roasted quite quickly. It was a difficult task to keep the dripping meat on the kebab sticks, since hamburger meat tends to sag a bit when it cooks. Regardless, we managed and to add a little Californian flair we put the meat into tortillas and indulged ourselves in a delicious outdoor feast, while washing it down with strong Polish beer.

Once the food was finished, we built the fire again and enjoyed the warm fire and cold beer while our stomachs digested the meat. After all that was done, we considered it a mission accomplished, threw away our rubbish, hiked down the road a bit and hopped on the 519 bus back to the city. If you're even slightly interested in Iranian/Californian fusion please take a minute to have a look see at my video from Wednesday.

A Warmer Homecoming!

2009-08-22T08:53:00.001-07:00

So as most of you dear readers (all five of you,) probably know, last month I went home to the grand ole USA for a sojourn of a month to see family, friends, and partake in a collection of my favorite cultural revelries like; eating Mexican food and burgers, and watching baseball. Yes indeed, I experienced it all. Like all visits out west in the summer I enjoyed the same comforts of home I always expect; great heat, coastal fogs, barbecues, micro-brews, sipping coffee on sidewalk benches of Berkeley coffee-houses, sandwiches, stunning landscapes, bustling cities, cheap clothing, sleeping on my dad’s uncomfortable floor, and the wonderful opportunity to use my native language with anyone who happened to cross my path.

The only difference on this visit was that I would be landing in a different state-Arizona, and to be completely honest I didn’t know if I would like it or not. The typical adjectives that had flashed to my mind were the ubiquitous adjectives like; hot, sweltering, boiling, and crispy. Hot and crispy or not, I was going to base myself in my mother’s beautiful new home (with a pool!)in Arizona first before I headed up north to see friends and family in Cali. So in a nutshell, Arizona was hot-hotter than I imagined. Regardless, I spent a good deal of time in oven-like Phoenix, despite the fact that Phoenix is too hot to bear outdoors in July *, when I did venture outside, I was surprised at how much stunning scenery abounds in Phoenix-especially the sunsets. Anyway, it’s only too hot to handle for one or two months. After that it’s much more comfortable.

What was even more special about Arizona is the amount of parks within a few hours’ drive of Phoenix, which offer different landscapes and historical wonders. Three hours north is the Grand Canyon, which seeing in person is grander than any canyon you will ever see. Just a bit south is the chillier mountain town of Flagstaff, which has a pretty downtown lined dotted with historical looking hotels, shops, cafés and everything else you’d expect from a breezy mountain town. There are also places like Red Rock Park, Sedona, Wupatki National Monument, and Montezuma’s Castle. All of which I was able to visit quite conveniently. In addition to being home to the Arizona Diamondbacks, the state of Arizona is also opens its doors to a handful of MLB teams in February and March who come to get ready during spring training, which makes it a good time to come and watch baseball.

After seeing so many nice things in Arizona, I packed it up and headed up north to see family and friends in California. It was truly great to see everyone, as well as the new editions to families, (who will most likely be too big to recognize when I return.) I did so much that I can’t possible begin to expound in detail. Regardless, I will say I had an awesome time! After about ten days I boarded a south west plane from Oakland back to Phoenix. Back in Phoenix I enjoyed the last days of my much needed summer holiday home relaxing watching baseball, tubing down the Salt River, and eating fish tacos and pizza with the family. Anyway, it was a truly memorable month that in the end made me a tad depressed to see the time come to an end. If you are interested please see my slideshow of pictures from my sojourn home.

Need Friends, Take a Course!

2009-07-20T18:46:00.000-07:00

I have always considered myself in some ways an intrepid person; especially when it comes to traveling to different countries and deciding to live there. Actually, maybe it isn’t intrepidness, but perhaps it’s more like a spirit of adventure that directs me to foreign lands-or is it outright stupidity. Who knows? Regardless, whatever it is, the fact is that I am an American living abroad, and have done so for the last six years or so. Anyway, there are many great possibilities offered to individuals in the same situation. The possibility to work, study, travel, drink beer, and learn in a foreign environment is something that is often rewarding for many valid reasons. Despite this,there is one small problem might occur in most situations when one decides to live in a foreign country for a while. For me and for many of us when we live abroad, it is sometimes easy to feel like a loner. No one likes to drink alone. Moreover, If one is not vigilant and fails to take steps to prevent loneliness, one can easily feel like a permanent wallflower and be spectator watching everyone else’s life, while he or she might feel bummed out from not having a social life. I know this because this happened to me in Poland. However, I decided to do something about it.

One good way to escape this situation is to sign up for a course where you are forced to interact with other people. For me, I signed up for a Polish language course at the University of Warsaw for two months. In that time, I interacted with an enthusiastic group of creatures from all over the globe. In the end I became quite good friends with many of the participants-and even learned a little Polish to boot. Because of this course I now have a social life in Warsaw, which isn’t always easy for a foreigner.

Anyway, our group has become like a gang of foreigners that gets together once a week or so and usually share food and drink from one of our respective countries. We have even partaken in a few sunny barbecues with our own local flavors of cuisine and style, and have even made a few city sightseeing excursions on Sundays. I now have a group of friends from China, Iran, Greece, Spain, and The Philippines. For me, learning Polish is important, but getting it down will take some time. Since my girlfriend is busy with her PHD, I need people to socialize with in English. So if you need friends, do yourself a favor and sign up for a course for something and introduce yourself to your new friends.

The Sound of Music

2009-07-07T02:09:00.000-07:00

Last week I had the pleasure of receiving an invitation to visit my friend and Polish language classmate Mohammed in a musical performance with the Polish Philharmonic Orchestra in Lodz. He plays a Persian style flute called a ‘ney’, which he was classically trained with while growing up in his native country Iran. Mohammed is a very passionate and rather casual person socially, which can coincidentally be a way to describe the way he plays his instrument.

The ‘ney’ has a very soft bird-song like sound that is very unique compared to most dominating western style instruments. Despite the political struggles going on in Iran, Mohammed carries on with his music in Poland, whilst sharing something more important than political opinions. If only we could all make our ears only hear the sound of music and drown out the rhetoric of political ideology. If you are interested, he will perform with his wife Anna ( who is Polish,) as well as a percussionist, and also with his Iranian friend Mossen who plays an Iranian stringed instrument called a tar (and quite quickly to boot,) next month on the square in Warsaw. So if you are in town you should feel obliged to meander down for a listen.

Please see the video, which is too short to do any justice to the performance. As I didn’t want to offend anyone in the captivated audience, I only filmed a tiny piece of the evening. Please note the final piece by the orchestra is for all of you in Korea.

Coffee-nomics

2009-06-19T01:41:00.000-07:00

Recently I had the pleasure of procuring quite an interesting book from a bookstore on a visit to Ostrava (which is in the Czech Republic,) last week. The title was “The Undercover Economist,” by Tim Harford. As I currently stand with only the promise of a teaching job pending the successful approval of my work visa in Poland, I am unfortunately left without any income until I can ‘legally’ begin work. For this reason alone of being in an economizing situation in penny pinching times I am left without any options but to learn about economics-and am afforded no other choice but to shell out the 290 Czech crowns demanded for this overpriced paperback. Armed with an attractive new paperback, with an appealing cover of a coffee cup on it, I proceeded to skim through the first chapter which is coincidentally about my favorite thing that isn’t economics at all-coffee!

I was quite fascinated at not only how cheap coffee is to make and produce, but also how easy it is for coffee shops like Starbucks, and Costa Coffee to be so successful at nickel and diming their customers. The author claims that the price for a typical cappuccino in a coffee shop at one of the busy tube stops in London is roughly One Pound Fifty (about three US dollars, but mind you this is the center of London not Milwaukee.) If you were heading to work on Monday morning in hectic London, and you weren’t able to get any caffeine into your sleepy department of human of intelligence called a brain, you wouldn’t have any problem exchanging a couple of quid for a strong, frothy cappuccino; I know I wouldn’t. Well, actually I would have a problem, but more on me later. I don’t want to get ahead of myself.

First of all, if you are tired and need coffee it is commonly accepted that in most situations coffee isn’t something that really breaks the bank. I am not a rich person, although whenever I am with friends I will often offer to pay for the coffee. For me coffee is just one of those things that have never been much of a financial burden. Despite this, What is interesting is that in this book, Mr. Harford explains that actually when a café proprietor in the center of London pays for the beans, buys the equipment to make the coffee, hires employees, pays for rent, electricity and everything else that goes into making your bitter, extra dry cappuccino, will actually cost him or her about 60 pence (about a dollar) to make your drink. That’s almost 200 percent straight profit!

As I am living in Warsaw, which has a bustling population around 2 million and growing, I have become rather daunted by the actual amount of coffee shops competing for business around the city-center. Actually, in all honesty even though they are all technically competing with each other, they all seem to be quite successful coffee establishments. What is also interesting is that drinks aren’t really that cheap here. As I consider myself a coffee drinker, I will usually only order one drink-coffee. For me it’s fortunate as it is normally by far the cheapest drink on the menu. I am not a frills person, and luckily the frill-less drink is normally the cheapest. The cheapest coffee from a trendy coffee shop is around 8 zloty, which is about $2.50. Although, Starbucks is newly open downtown and serves up their drip coffee for 6 zloty-which is about $2.

Anyway, in the book the author adds that the cafes really make money by all of the extras they charge for things. For example if you order a large Americano-how much is that extra splash of hot water really going to cost the proprietor? Or, how much is that little dab of whip cream going to cost? What about the extra little bit of frothy milk you add to make a latte instead of an Americano? Or, what about paying an extra little bit for white chocolate? It happens, just look at the price differences next time and think to yourself if you really want to pay a half dollar more for a little extra hot water? What about getting a small instead next time? *You would probably save 30 percent more!

Since I only like coffee anyway, and in the spirit of economizing, I have recently set out around Warsaw and tried to find the cheapest cup of coffee around downtown. The cheapest I have found (with the exception of the vending machines serving brown water,) is actually McDonald’s. At 4.90 Zl, they are the cheapest. However, they lose points for atmosphere. The most expensive is probably ‘I coffee’ and Costa Coffee (which has free wireless access) at close to 9Zl per cup. The big chain in Warsaw is the ubiquitous Coffee Heaven. You won’t have to venture far downtown to find a Coffee Heaven that’s for sure. Actually, they actually have a small little take out café next to the metro. Their coffee isn’t too expensive, but if you want wireless access you have to pay. Additionally, I regret to inform Canadians that there is isn’t a Tim Horton’s.

300 More Reasons Why Hitler Was a Tyrant!

2009-06-10T06:01:00.000-07:00

In September of 1939 Hitler's Army with Russia marched into Poland and occupied it. In a matter of weeks, Poland was occupied by the Germans. For the better part of the next five years the Nazi's occupied Poland. For Poland, a sovereign and thriving nation during the inter-war years was under control of Nazi Germany.

Even worse, the more Poland showed resistence, the greater Germany tightened its control on Poland. As Poland's resilience challenged the Nazi Occupation in the Warsaw Uprising, Germany almost retreated. However, Poland wasn't strong enough to resist the control alone, and alas, in the end, Russia(who had also joined the fight against the Germans,) failed to help the Poles. In the end, Germany destroyed most of Warsaw, and more and more Poles were murdered at the hands of the Nazis.

If you come to Warsaw today you will see that there are reportedly 300* monuments marked as execution sites during the war dotted around the city-center. On a casual stroll last Saturday setting out from the Ratusz Arsenal metro stop carrying my digital camera I meandered down to Novy Swiat and had a stroll through the old town to the old town square. Without a map or guide book I was able to find about 8 such monuments within the span of about an hour. Each monument will tell you on what date, exactly how many people were murdered.

I think the Poles suffered a terrible ordeal between 1939 and 1944, and I think it’s important to preserve this type of history in order to serve as a reminder that peace should never be taken for granted. If anything, history serves as a reminder of the past.

*According to the incredibly indispensable and affordable ‘Warsaw in Your Pocket’ guidebook!

Allergey Season Blizzard

2009-05-30T03:14:00.000-07:00

Ever since I was young this time of year(late May) has always proved troublesome when venturing outside. You see, I have the misfortune of being afflicted with pesky seasonal allergies. As many of us share the annoying symptoms of; incessant, uncontrollable, sneezing, and itchy, and sobby watery eyes, it came as no surprise to me to see the culprit of all of this discomfort right before my own scratchy eyes.

You see, in early spring everything is fresh, verdant and in bloom. Early Spring is such a pretty, colorful time of year. However when things begin to dry out, things start to get nasty for us allergy sufferers. Especially in Poland, where in Spring there is a plethora of those dandy little yellow flowers called dandelions. They look so darn pretty when they bloom, however after a few weeks the dry out and decide to leave their flower and blow off around nature and town.

At times in Warsaw, you can see the feathery dried flower blowing through the streets like a snowstorm. You can even see patches of the flower on the ground like a fresh powder. When the wind kicks up, the petals dance and flutter, follow people, end up in taxis, trams, and even buildings. At times it appears that some streets are covered in cotton. It's interesting, however a slight annoyance for us allergy sufferers. At least there are decent enough drugs at the pharmacy and a ready supply of tissues at hand!

A Weekend with Beatless

2009-05-25T06:52:00.000-07:00

I think it must be noted that I am not at all a modest person. I'll impart this information to you without the slightest hesitation. Like the words of Ron Burgundy who claimed that he 'was kind of a big deal around here,' I too think I have some interesting things to brag about. For example, I have played the bass guitar for the past twelve years or so, and have been fortunate to play some kick ass tunes in front of a very eclectic range of characters around the world. For that I am of course thankful, but at the same time quite impressed with myself. So please give me a moment to pat myself on the back.

Now, that's done! I also want to say, this weekend I met with a former band in Ostrava (The Czech Republic,)with whom I had the great fortune to play with for over a year back in 2006. They are a Beatles revival band called 'Beatless.' The fact that the two singers are girls can serve as a clue to the 'ess' suffix attached band name (which is from princess,) as well as the fact that the name is a sarcastic play on words to symbolize a lack of rhythm. Although, like the Bangles they got the beat.

The band plays about 2 or 3 times a month around the Czech Replublic; usually in spa towns. They will usually play around 25 to 30 songs in an evening, and I don't think they have ever made a mistake while I played with them. Anyway, I was invited to play with them in Karlova Studanka last week in the mountains about two hours form Ostrava. I came and played about six songs, said 'dekuju moc!' then sat down and took some photos and made a couple digital camera videos. All of which is located just below for your viewing pleasure! Enjoy!

The Tastiest Feast Ever!

2009-05-10T02:51:00.000-07:00

So in case if you are wondering, last week was my birthday.* I became as old as Jesus. Anyway, in celebration of myself reaching a healthy 33 years of age, me and Justyna visited a Balkan style restaurant called Banja Luka. Named after the second largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, this hidden, lively, boisterous, gastronomic wonder fifteen minutes by tram from the center of Warsaw, is probably one of the best little unknown places in Central Europe.

If you are not a vegetarian, and are not prone to sudden fits of disgust from copious amounts of cheese complimenting those juicy morsels of chicken, lamb, bacon, and beef, then this is the place for you. Although, you should also take note that the portions rival any American stake house! Moreover, as prices for trendy restaurants in Warsaw are quite unreasonable, Banja Luka, is a relatively affordable exception. Go with feta-wrapped in bacon starters, then have a feta-wrapped bacon and lamb skewer with rice and potatoes! Your stomach will regret it, but your taste buds will be in heaven. At least you'll be given a complimentary alcoholic digestive to sort out the digestion before you depart. If you go call me!

*please let me know if you want to send me a gift, i'll forward you the mailing information!

Sorry, but some of the photos didn't manage to come out during the vid...don't know what happened!

A Weekend Roadtrip!

2009-05-05T04:42:00.000-07:00

So, being back in Poland in the Springtime is such a treat compared to the frigid cold temperatures back in January. As a reward for one for tolerating such a pesky winter, we(me and my lovely girlfriend,) treated ourselves to a holiday in the relaxing,verdant, sunny town of Bialoweza. Bialoweza means 'white tower,' which in fact the town duly displays overlooking a sparkling lake in the middle of the town park. However, the highlight for most visitors is the opportunity to gaze upon the local Bison, who graze lazily in the local nature reserve just down the road from the ubiquitous white tower.

Once arriving by bus from Warsaw on Friday evening, checking in, and throwing our bags in our room, we ushered ourselves outside to trek on down the quiet, sleepy road in order to grasp a Bison of a different kind. The local beer is also logically called Zubr, which my poor Polish knowledge tells me Zubr is Bison. Luckily there was a cozy penzion down the road where we able to procure and consume a couple of these strong Piwo. It was just enough to make us feel sleepy. Which was good because we had an early morning on Saturday.

Once our phones collectively woke us up around 8 am, we had some breakfast of home leftovers, and set off down the road to catch the bus to the local Bison Reserve. On the way to catch the bus it finally began to hit me how beautiful spring in fact was. Everywhere in any direction I could see a plethora of flowers in bloom, which seemed to reach every hue on the color scale. It was truly breathtaking. Down the road we paid our two or three zloty to view the Bison, Oxen, Wolf, Polish Horse, sleeping Lynx, and other exotic animals who seemed to be chilling out in the sun ignoring the snapping of trigger happy camera packing tourists. Because of the apparent ignorance of the animals of the giant herd of humans taking photos, I began to feel like I was in a zoo; which left me a little disappointed. Regardless, the weather was nicer than it had been in a long while, and the national park we were trekking through was truly stunning. After poking around checking out the animals and bidding them farewell, we set off back to the town on foot.

The walk back for me was the highlight of the trip. It seemed that the entire park was free to explore and photograph. The two of us spent the entire day walking about fifteen kilometers of mostly flat land through the park and town checking out everything from lakes, gardens, houses, to even an interesting open air museum. For me that was the highlight of the weekend; just being outside in nature. Anyway, it was a very productive weekend of photographing, trekking, Bison watching and Beer drinking. Now back in Warsaw sitting in one of the thousand trendy cafes pumping out atmospheric trance music, I seriously look forward to my next outdoor adventure.

Czy mowi pan po angielsku? Do you speak English?

2009-04-29T10:26:00.000-07:00

This week I have started the leg work of going around Warsaw in order to establish my life here as a foreigner. Since I have been here only a week, my Polish is pardon the pun; 'unpolished.' For example, yesterday I went to the University to find the building to sign up for Polish classes. It seemed easy enough to find on the Internet, but I in fact had the misfortune of looking in every building at the University until I found it in a decrepit corner nestled behind the music department. The problem was that I tried to speak Polish. After saying 'Czy movi pan po angielsku?' most people replied in English-NO! To their displeasure I informed these souls that I in fact spoke a little Polish and that they could instruct me in their mother tongue and I would probably understand. Because of my decision to speak Polish in finding directions instead of moving on to one of the million other people here who can speak English, it took me half the morning to find a building that was literally in the middle of the capital city of Poland. Anyway, one would believe that I learnt my lesson. Hardly! I continued to press the 'Czy pan mowi po Angielsku?' question around at the hospital, where I received in a steadfast manner that in fact the receptionist didn't speak English. So I bravely tried to explain my curious situation about obtaining the mandatory student health certificate in Polish without looking for an English speaker. After about thirty seconds of another Polish language fiasco, another nurse barked out from the corner:'Go upstairs to the second floor!' With that short chalk talk, I said a cheery 'Dzienkuje bardzo!' and flashed up the stairs. Whereupon I made my appointment confidently in English. After a few hours if pounding pavement, it was a successful day. I managed to enroll in a Polish class, and make a doctors appointment in my own language! Can you get more intelligent than that? I hope not?

The Show Must Go On!

2009-04-28T06:23:00.001-07:00

So, it' s been two years of life in Korea. How can I even begin to write about the things I experienced, the people I had the pleasure and displeasure of meeting, the language I failed miserably in speaking, the donuts I consumed. Two years in Korea is a long time as a foreigner and to recount my entire existence as a teacher for two years in a single blog posting is not surprisingly challenging for me. It isn't easy for two reasons. The first one being is that I had such a wonderful time in Korea that it makes me sad just bringing everything to mind. The second, and more interesting reason is that my life here was of course so dynamic. Life was truly a daily adventure. In fact at times I felt like I was inundated with so much culture, hospitality, generosity, curiosity, and a daily life that offered enough challenges to make life seem like things changed from minute to minute.

I must say that however it's overall been a highly positive experience, and if one adopts a very positive attitude, then life as a teacher in Korea can be an endearing experience. Life isn't perfect anywhere, and Korea is no exception, yet walking away in my opinion leaves me with the notion that I should at least say thank you to numerous people, organizations, groups, restaurants, students etc. So that is my intention today. So in no particular order I am going to thank a few souls for making my life here an overall positive experience.

First of all I want to say thank you to the students of Jeil High School. Thank you for being there everyday and making me feel like an important person. Thank you for your politeness. Thank you for your participation, and most importantly thank you for your smiles. You will (mostly) all go far. Thank you for the teachers of Jeil High School for making my life so much easier than it could have been in South Korea. Thank you for all of your support, kindness, free food, patience, and smiles. Thank you to my Taekwondo teachers Haydar and Mr. Baek. Thank you both for being patience with my lack of flexibility. Speaking of patience, I also want to say thank you to everyone at SIFC. You guys were so supportive and I can't thank enough for giving me a social outlet, and for helping me develop as a soccer(football) player. Also, since I was a volunteer for UNESCO, I want to thank O Jeong Mi, for being such a dedicated translator for me during my presentations. I also want to thank Mr. Bahk, at UNESCO for letting me pour Soju for him. Thank you also Canadian Connection for hiring me in the first place. I have to say that I was afraid of daunting task of teaching children, so thank you for giving me an opportunity.

I also want to thank many people in the foreign community for giving me a social outlet. Throghout my tenure in Korea I learned that culture shock is a real thing, and it was great to have so many friends in Suncheon I could get to know. So thanks to everyone in the band; Jesse, Greg, Karen, Dan, Harold, Nina, and Jeff. You guys all rocked and I'm gonna miss playing with you. Thanks to Therese for all of her free dinners. Thanks to my old neighbor Kiwi Dave, for stopping by for coffees. Thanks to Eric for letting me watch TPB, and Liverpool matches in his apartment. Thanks to the boys Alroy, Daragh, Ben, Steve Marshall, Jose, Adam, Kai, Tim, Kevin J. Lee, Alex, Matt, Shane, Corey, B.T, Aodan, Ian, Simon, Mike Thompson, Wrestling Dave, Nebraska Dave and Fraser. It's been great knowing everyone, and I wish you all the best. Actually there was so many great people, that if I forgot you then shame on me, but thanks anyway if I forgot you. Thanks to my girlfriend, whom I am with now in Poland, but since we met in Korea at good ole' Camp England. Also, I had the good fortune to experience life in Seoul thanks to her, so thank you Justyna. Also, thanks Home Plus, taxi drivers, Dakgalbi, Elvis Bar, Speak Easy, TomnToms, Juliana's, Seoul, Suncheon, Busan, Gwangju, Kia Tigers, String Bar, Chunnam Dragons, Kimchi, Soju, Chilsung Cider, Samgeopsal, Gamjatang, The Foreign Food store in Gwangju, Korean customer service, KTX Trains, Korean Express Busses, Yeosu and you.

Thanks to you for reading this, and once again, thank you Korea. Kamsahamnida! Daniel:)

Anyway as the Queen song reverberates 'The Show Must Go On,' I believe that indeed it shall. Someone will take my place in Suncheon, and I think they will do a great job. Also, I will continue to update my blog regularly from Poland for those who might be interested. Instead of all things Korean, I am just going for the jugular and promise to dish out the incredibly misadventures of myself in Poland. I hope you are ready, because I know I'm not.

A Food Lover's Paradise?

2009-04-26T11:07:00.000-07:00

I must say that when I arrived in Korea the initial thing I felt when I tried the food was that it was too spicy. It was only a ramen bowl as well. I couldn't even finish it. The only feeling in my mouth was burning pepper. It wasn't only the spice that took me by surprise, the bigger surprise was the fact that the food was spicy in Korea. I had no idea, as most people do when they saunter through Incheon Airport starting a new Korean adventure. Anyway, just so you know alot of the dishes in Korea are really quite spicy, so just be aware before you come here. You might want to do some spice tolerance training before you come here. Maybe try the spicier salsas in your neighborhood taquerias, or opt for a spicier Pad Thai at the local Thai noodle house. However, there are plenty of non-spicy dishes as well. Additionally, if you decide to stay here a while you will be surprised how quickly the body is able to adapt the spiciness. What's even better is that the longer you stay to build a spice tolerance, your knowledge of the different foods available also drastically grows. This means one quickly realizes how much food is truly available in this country, and how incredibly affordable it is to boot. The upshot of this means that you can eat every meal daily in a restaurant, not cook and basically not worry about having to drain your bank account.

When I came to Korea, I only knew a few dishes; kimbap, ramen, mandu. One can not survive on a few dishes alone, so one always turns to what they are familiar with. In Korea, there are a plethora of familiar western food style chain restaurants (like Outback,) that serve up reliable, familiar to the Americana taste bud cuisine. Places like this were a gift from above for me for the first year in Korea, since I couldn't speak or read much Korean- which made it more difficult to investigate new and interesting foods to partake in eating. That all changed over the last six months though. I am happy to say that I basically cut out Outback, and *McDonald's from my diet completely in the land of Kimchi. I even had a dining routine during the week with some friends rockin' different Korean food establishments. For example; There were Dakgalbi Mondays, which is spicy grilled chicken with cabbage and rice noodles, there was also Kamjatang Sunday lunch, which is a potato and pork soup. They are both amazing dishes. Anyway, there are so many styles here that it's difficult to describe in a single anecdote, however, since I am no longer in Korea, I must say that the biggest thing I miss-other than my friends, job, and soccer, is the food.

I think if you are curious about the food here, you should check out my friend Therese's blog. I enjoy eating food a lot, however, she does a much better job capturing the whole food and dining experience in South Korea. So any attempt on my part would only fail in comparison to her blog. So instead of carrying on incessantly, I will simply mention the fact that if you are a food person, her blog is worth a look. I also want to add though is that I am going to really miss Dakgalbi Mondays. I get sad just thinking about it. So I will stop here, but please check out some pictures I've saved.

* I must admit that the Mcdonald's Shanghai Chicken sandwiches are spectacular!

Get Out the Red in Gwangju!

2009-04-12T06:23:00.001-07:00

Well, for a creature living in South Korea right now one could state with a high level of confidence that spring has finally greeted us with her warm touch. Sandals once again are the desired shoe choice and the chance to finally don a red Kia Tigers T-shirt with jeans(minus a sweater,) is a welcome added bonus.

Furthermore, the most awesome part of Spring in my opinion is of course baseball. What's even better is that I am fortunate to be in a country whose national baseball team is still reeling in their recent successes with a Beijing Olympic Gold Medal, and a WBC second place finish. As of now Korea is one of many exploding baseball nations in the world. Their team is quite talented, but I wouldn't say they stack up as one of the most talented teams in the world. What is unique about this nation and their baseball is the unflinching amount of energy and spirit the players and fans show. I think it is this mix of determination and their typical 'fighting spirit,' that makes them currently a standout nation on the diamond.

Because of this recent surge in baseball dominance, *it seems that more and more Koreans are coming out to the ball park and exerting some of their energy in support of their local teams. Last week was the opening week, and this last weekend I was lucky to visit two games between the Kia Tigers in Gwangju, and the Samsung Lions of Daegu. Both games in Gwangju were great. The crowd had spirit, and their pitching kept the Tigers competitive on both days-yet their offense lacked spirit and(more importantly) clutch hits that would've given them more runs.

Friday's result: Lions5, Tigers 2, Saturday's result: Lions 2, Tigers 1 (10 innings)

The offensive highlight of the two games was a solo shot from Che hisom,(who's an ex-Dodger.)while the overall highlight was the stellar pitching from the Tigers that kept them close in both games. Anyway, sometimes going to a ballpark to see a game isn't about winning or losing. Anyone who is a baseball enthusiast knows that, and also knows that there is more than a handful of wisdom about enjoying a ball game.

In Korea, the only thing you don't get(** other than hot dogs) is green grass. However, once one becomes accustomed to the lack of real grass in this nation, you can accept the fact that there are other nice things to enjoy here. So in the end you can enjoy coming to a ball game for a fun experience, even if your team doesn't win. So with out further adieu, I am going to give you a list of ten things to check out at a Korean baseball game.

1.) Buy Chicken(usually one for two people-costs about 12,000won)

2.) Get there early and take advantage of the incredibly boisterous cheering sections on the first base side.

3.) Pay a visit to the incredibly affordable souvenir stand! I bought a professional style Red Kia Tigers jersey for the equivalent of 30 dollars!...Get the red out!

4.) Check out the game and pay attention, because it seems like it's easier to catch a foul ball here. I think Koreans have a different style of swing and they are always spraying the balls into the stands. Not that I caught one though.***

5.) For the male audience-cheerleaders

6.) For the kids-a very animated mascot!

7.) The 6Th inning 'kiss' camera! The Jumbo tron screen shows couples between innings and they have to kiss if they are on the screen.

8.) Go with as many friends as you can and take advantage of the general admission style seating!

9.) The games are noisier than in America....much noisier!

10.) Affordable tickets-10,000 won and you can sit almost anywhere you want!

* The game on Saturday was so crowded that there several hundred people who couldn't even find seats, but were at least able to stand and enjoy the game.

** If you come to a game here you won't find a single hot dog stand, what you will find is a plethora of chicken restaurants selling off boxes of chicken with complimentary Pepsi in front of the stadium!
*** During the game Friday I asked my friend if he has ever caught a ball at a game, he immediatley said he hadn't. The next day I asked my Canadian friend Tim is he has ever and he also claimed that he has never caught a ball. I also have never caught a ball during a game. Anyway it seemed at the time surprising that 3 baseball enthusiasts have never caught a ball. Regardless, Statistically it seems difficult to catch a baseball at a game. Imagine an average game having 20,000 people. Well, how many balls are hit into the stands during an inning? Let's say 6 per inning for foul balls, and for home runs- let's say on average 3 per game. So that's 57 balls in the stands per game. However, I think that is quite a liberal amount. It is probably lower. Anyway that's about a 57/20,000 chance for you to catch a ball in a game. Another way of looking at it is to imagine a guy in the outfield who was never allowed to move anywhere. What are the odds of the ball just landing in his glove? I bet it's pretty low. Since there is alot of space in a ball park, and a fan isn't able to maneuver around for a ball, the fan is going to have a high amount of difficulty chasing a ball that is hit into the stands. Anyway, if you catch a home run from Boston or New York, just throw it back anyway! Go A's!

Do March Showers Bring April Flowers?

2009-04-04T00:58:00.000-07:00

There's an old cliche back home that April showers bring May flowers. Honestly, I never paid much attention to the expression, mostly because of the fact that I had never been much of a flower person. If you said April showers brings May happy hours, or April showers increases solar power, then I would've shown more appreciation of the fact that a colder and wetter April invites a warmer May.

I think there a couple of things I must state here. First, back home the nature of the San Francisco Bay Area is stunning in its own right, however it isn't really famous specifically for flowers. We have stunning ocean views with crashing waves, towering pine and sequoia trees, jagged mountains, and almost any other imaginable natural setting-yet I can't tell you any place you can go to see beautiful flowers. The second thing, is that I am a typical man. Because of my manliness, I think that I have just assumed that I wouldn't appreciate flowers or anything related to the blossoming world in the springtime. I have always thought of flowers in the spring as a 'girly' interest. I have therefore closed myself off from the aesthetic realm of the power of flower for a large portion of my life.

That all changed when I came to Korea a couple of years ago and noticed the breathtaking scenery of the cherry blossoms in April. It is a beautiful world we live in, and one of the things that definitely contributes to that beauty without a doubt are the lucid white cherry blossoms surrounding cities and the countryside. Additionally, as an added bonus the blossoms come out a bit earlier than one would normally expect. Despite the old notion of an April shower, here we are greeted with Spring bloom almost a full month earlier. The temperatures are still quite breezy and a little uninviting, but not in a way that will keep one indoors. All one needs is a free day, a light jacket, and a 1000 won to hop on a bus to a local temple to take a few snapshots of the hundreds of trees lining the grounds in the afternoon.

Which is what I did last Sunday with my friend Eric. Living in Suncheon in Jellonamdo has a couple of temples both within an hour by the city bus. The easiest to reach is Seonamsa, which can be taken directly from the train station on bus 1 for 1000 won. Once we arrived we quickly bypassed the other tourists piling off of the tour buses and made our way to the temple itself up the hill behind the bus stop. The temple is quite small itself, but the highlight is in fact the sheer beauty of the blossoms popping out of the trees in every direction of the temple.

After firing off about a hundred pictures, we both decided to give our lazy feet a rest and have an ice cream from a souvenir shop. Looking at my watch I had noticed that the month was still actually March. Which meant that, March flowers had already sprung! I guess in Korea March Showers bring just March flowers. There was no waiting or anticipation for anything of the like! The flowers just Sprung like Spring tends to do here. How's that for Korean productivity!

I'll Admit It, I'm Addicted!

2009-03-26T05:21:00.000-07:00

I have been sick for six days now. The worst is behind me, but for most of this week I have been annoyed by the fact that I have been having to rely on an arsenal of orange juice, cold medicine, copious amounts of green tea, and bed rest. Being sick is the worst, and I have the recent unpredictable weather to thank for that. Thanks weather!

Saturday seemed innocuous enough. Clear, hopeful skies, and a warm breeze blowing on the soccer pitch before our inaugural game of the season against Mr. Kim's Posco team. The weather; unlike our final match result actually showed favorable conditions. The warm air mixed with running around on the soccer pitch made me quite sweaty. After our actual match, me and some of the teammates decided to chance upon seeing a local K-league match. The Gwanyang Chunnam Dragons play in the same city next to Suncheon where we had our own SIFC match, so it was quite convenient to check out the match. If you don't know this, Korean soccer is actually quite good. If you compare it to the MLS in the states I think that the level of play is quite similar-I would probably even put my money on the K-League teams in taking down the MLS teams(minus Beckham and Landon Donovan).

Since the weather was spring-like, It in fact so nice, I didn't' even realise it would be possible to get sick after cooling down in my post match condition. Therefore I happily jumped in a cab with four other teammates and made the crosstown jaunt to the stadium. Upon arriving, we were greeted by numerous food stands offering up Chinese dumplings, squid, BBQ chicken, beer, and other snacks. Since we had time to kill before the match we found a picnic table outside and sampled a little of everything. Some of us even made it to the souvenir stand and procured some scarves and bandannas to show our dragon 'San Diego Charger colored' gold and yellow.

What is interesting was how cheap everything happened to be. For example our tickets were only 7000 won! To compare; if you want to see the San Jose Earthquakes next week, you will pay a MINIMUM of 35.00$! It's true people in San Jose make about twice as much, but you can still say that the relative difference is double. Yet, thirty-five dollars is the CHEAPEST seat in San Jose. If you go to a Dragons game, you can sit anywhere on the pitch and catch the action as up close as you want.

Once inside, as soon as the match started I started to feel like there was a change in the weather. The morning sun, was soon replaced by a grey cover that was becoming darker as the first half wore on. Regardless, the energy of the small crowd kept us all going till the end of the match, which ended in a 1-1 draw against the Incheon team. Once the match ended, the rain immediately started to pound the seats in the stadium, and we were forced to exit. What was nice however, is the free shuttle buses to Suncheon right outside the gates.

The mix of playing soccer on Saturday and sweating, and cooling down all afternoon, while the rain began pelting my under dressed body is what gave me the wonderfully annoying cold I now have. Regardless, I left that afternoon with the feeling that I have been missing something since I've been in Korea. I really enjoyed the soccer match, and I was so gratified to find out that there was a match going on Wednesday as well. So after one match I had become addicted, so I had to satisfy my addiction last night. So yesterday I saw my second K-league soccer match in six days.

There were no chance of clouds, or rain. That's because there was a cold, crisp, bitter wind cracking like a whip. Luckily, I procured a scarf at the souvenir stand and had some cheap coffee to warm my hands as I shouted on the Brazilian striker as he scored 2 goals and led the Dragons to their miraculous extra time win over the Taegu team last night 3-2 for their first win of the season. It didn't make me any healthier, but it didn't matter. I'm looking forward to the next match on April 18Th!

What You Wouldn't Expect!

2009-03-15T05:12:00.000-07:00

I wouldn't consider myself a wise person; No way! The word sage doesn't immediately come to mind when describing myself. There is no advice in the realms of human interactions, financial matters, diplomacy, love etc. that I could even possibly imagine to impart to you dear reader. I have have however always considered myself a curious person.

This notion could even be backed up by stating that first of all; I studied philosophy. It was my curiosity about the big 'what, and why' questions that served as my reason to study this subject. It was a remarkable experience as well. However, no questions were ever answered. Seven years later sitting in front of my trusty IBM Thinkpard and looking back at my existence I can in fact confidently tell you another reason for being an inquisitive fellow is the simple fact that I have spent most of this last decade living in other countries. I guess many folks back home would probably regard me as the token 'expat guy,' or something similar in this nature. Regardless, I believe most of us 'expat guys' normally have some kind of strange inert sense of curiosity about the world, which transcends the more 'mundane' ideals that most people adhere to.

Regardless, As I am not a wise person, I shouldn't be in any position to expound on the nature of curiosity and wisdom to anyone. However, one piece of wisdom that I would like to impart to you is only three words. These three words are only intended for people living in Korea, or for the folks who are maybe considering making a jaunt over here in the not too distant future. So without delay here are three essential words: look both ways!

There is a statistic floating around among foreigners from a book that was published somewhere

at some time in the not too distant past, which states that the Korean roads are one of the most dangerous in the world. I have read some information on the subject, but I am unable to draw up any official statistics regarding the current road situation here. Despite this, I will only tell you to watch out if you are on foot. So even if it can be a bit dangerous, if you listen to the only wisdom I will ever give you ever, which is those three words, then you WILL be fine!

There is something else though about Korea that I quite like. In light of the previous warning that has been loosely issued, I have to say it is also a bit ironic. If you come here you will also quickly notice how many streets are somewhat created for pedestrians. Even in Suncheon there are several districts that are 'mostly,' pedestrian type zones with shops and restaurants blazing with their full neon signs nearly twenty four-seven. Of course there are cars buzzing about virtually everywhere, there are still a great number of areas to meander, poke around, shop and exercise your legs. There are the market streets with fish mongers, fruit and vegetable sellers, clothing vendors, fast foot stands, and even the occasional tarrot card readers can be discovered around town. One could spend a leisurely Sunday poking around sports stores, cafes, clothing shops, or sample many types of interesting, and amazingly cheap street food.

Even in ever moving, frantically busy Seoul there an uncountable number of these enjoyable semi-walking areas; Myongdong, Itaewon, Dongdaemun, Insadong (which is a wonderful area to check out traditional Korean items,) Hyeondae, and Sinchon are all areas that cater to the masses of street travelers. In fact, since the Subway in Seoul is so efficient, it must be said that traveling by foot is bar none the far the best way to travel in Seoul.

So as an unwise person, I can only offer one piece of Advice; in Korea look both ways! The roads are a bit chaotic, and for those used to the rigid traffic laws in North America might feel a bit uncomfortable when arriving here. I am no Aesop, but please take care and look both ways. Also, more importantly; if you come here I guess you could also remember the words written in the great book entitled 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' : 'Don't Panic!' Maybe that's wiser!

No Butts About it!

2009-02-24T22:31:00.000-08:00

As I have been residing in this curious peninsula for nearly the last two years, I have been sharing some of my interesting experiences with you as well as making note of all the convivial places I have had the good fortune of visiting. There are many places to visit here as well as fascinating places to see. What is ironic about this is the fact that I have waited so long to see one of the best places in Korea. This place is Busan; more importantly Hayundai Beach!

Busan is about two hours by bus north of Suncheon, with a lively population pushing four million. It hosts one of the largest ports in the world, as well as being the pre-eminent beach to visit for all young Koreans during the month of August, where close to half a million swimming suit and rubber raft clad summer beach goers visit. There is also a famous aquarium housing a variety of displays from giant fish tanks, toothy sharks, penguins and even a pool of cute otters. Thankfully it was only February, and since I managed to escape town on a sunny Saturday, I decided to make the short journey to Busan to see the beach and the aquarium for the day.

Leaving Suncehon at nine am gave me ample time to cruise into the bus station(which is quite far from the beach.) After a punishing fifteen or twenty subway stops, I managed to stagger out of the station on the quiet road that leads directly to Hayundai beach. Just five minutes down the road is the beach, which was a breathtaking sunny day with families, students, and foreigners alike strolling along the sand while welcoming the soon approaching spring. There wasn't too many people, but just enough to give me the notion that I wasn't the only one to make it a beach weekend. I felt like I was back home in California walking along Santa Cruz Beach for the first time after a wet winter. I was so excited I felt obliged grab my camera and fire off a few snap shots. Sadly after coming up empty reaching for my camera in my backpack, I was forced to purchase a low quality box camera from a souvenir stand on the beach (you will see from my slide show at the end of this little anecdote just how low quality the photos came out.)

Anyway, after soaking up a few rays, I walked back up the road and negotiate accommodation at one of the spartan motels in the area. Since it was early, I decided to shower and clean myself up a bit to look more presentable when I visited the aquarium on the beach. The aquarium was curiously crowded, until it dawned on me that it was Saturday afternoon, and since Saturday afternoon is family day in Korea, I realized that it was going to be a cozy aquarium visit on this day. Pushing my way downstairs to the first level I found some lively penguins swimming and hanging out, which was quite entertaining despite having to push through the mass population of kids wanting to touch everything. Further along, the otter pool was even more crowded since it was feeding time and all the visitors were clamouring to see the cute little furry guys feeding. I took this overcrowded feeding time as an opportunity to see the giant shark tank, where the intimidating sharks swim right up to the window, where you can actually stare them down, which I did. I was just lucky the glass was unbreakable.

After about an hour or so of aquarium exploring, I headed back out into the sun and walked along the beach and up through some fish markets and took in the fishy, beach aroma that is typical of the sea. Down along the beach is a small temple and a interesting mermaid stature. As dusk approached I hiked around the bend further where a small quiet cove with fishing boats and a small lookout where you can see a beautiful bridge that looks quite breathtaking at night. I can only relate it to seeing the San Francisco Bay Bridge at night. Unfortunately my wonderful low quality box camera wasn't able to develop anything at night, so I have no pictures to prove how breathtaking the view was.

After my little day at the beach, I decided to try out an Indian restaurant that everyone in Suncheon unanimously regarded(despite the high prices,) as the best place to dine. In my opinion it wasn't just the best meal I had ever had in Busan, but the best non-Korean meal I had ever had in Korea. If you go, don't be stingy and get the Samosa appetizers with your meal, because you won't be disappointed. Anyway; there are no butts about it, if you want a enjoyable beach experience for a day make no haste and come to Busan.

A Glimpse of the Past!

2009-02-18T19:46:00.000-08:00

Back home growing up I think I experienced the same folklore that most people of my generation encountered. The familiar phrase 'when I was your age,' was an expression duly noted to myself on many occasions. My father for example never shied away from an opportunity to tell me as a child that when he 'was my age'(I was around twelve at the time,) he was forced to pick up rocks every Saturday for a nickel . Even to this day I am not sure how to interpret this. As I kid I would usually roll my eyes and divert my attention towards the nearest window, however these days I would probably ask him why didn't he just call in sick or something? A nickel might have been a heck of a lot more back in 'those days,' but regardless, nobody picks up rocks anymore!

I think this is similar to the grandfather's cliche of walking in the snow to school; uphill, both ways, with out shoes, or a jacket to boot! The upshot to all of this is that many people believe that our generation is much different in the fact that life has become much more convenient for us. With convenience we can take a bus to school, and do less backbreaking work than scooping up rocks with our hands. With this convenience we humans can customize our lives to suit our personalities by basically doing whatever we want. Because of modernization, we are able to go where we want and survive just about anywhere quite easily. Gone are the days of having walk to school and sustain yourself on your own plot of land.

The irony of course is that humans did survive by sustaining themselves on their own land for many more generations than we have been living in modern mechanized times today. Many of us have flown the coop and will continue to do for some time, therefore living a simple, self-sustaining life in one's hometown will be a thing of the past-or already is a thing of the past. Despite this, living in Korea offers a unique glimpse of former times. This is because there are several folk villages scattered throughout the region, and what's especially nice about these villages is that they are more than open air museums they are in some respect also working, living, surviving villages.

It was also with my good fortune that I am residing less than twenty kilometers from one a famous place called Nagan Folk Village. It's nestled in a valley between two mountains, and is an area covering approximately two or three kilometers. The village is bordered with a surrounding wall, while the inside is covered by thatched roof houses. It was formerly a fortress during the Choson Period to protect themselves from the Japanese. Within the village today many residents are actually living in many of the houses (the roofs are thatched with rice grains, which need to be replaced annually.) There is a ceramics house where the proprietor is diligently creating mugs, plates, and other wares for tourists. There is also an inn where on can sleep.

There are other museum like pieces as well; for example the many totem poles surrounding the site represent many beliefs and wishes, there is an old administrative building recreating feudal times, as well as an entrance area and a selection of souvenir shops scattering throughout the village. So it won't appear as a hundred percent authentic working village, although it is pretty impressive for these modern times. I think Koreans in general believe that home is where the heart is so it is vital for them to maintain these cultural gems. As a visitor I appreciate the fact that at least we can see a part of the past, even if it's only a glimpse.

My visit ended at a village eatery with my cheerful and amusing guide Mr. Che buying me gal guk su(noodle soup with clams,) which was accompanied with a bottle of village made rice wine to drink. After a couple glasses of the sweet, slightly starchy wine, we ventured back to the modern world called Suncehon. Back in Suncheon I found myself immediately thrust back into modern life ordering a latte to wake myself up in TomnTom's hastily forgetting how lucky I am to live in such convenient times.

Riding the Korean Rails

2009-02-14T00:40:00.000-08:00

There are certain types of travelers. The most common and even more importantly more successful travelers are the types who manage to plan effectively by doing proper research, and by doing things to maximize their time while spent traveling. The basic idea is that one has only a limited amount of time in a chosen place, therefore one would feel obliged to organize their trip as effectively as possible. I unfortunately usually fall into another category of travelers who don't plan effectively. Because of this I am sure there are many things I have missed during my time spent on this planet. The reason for this is because if I am traveling, I tend to feel like I shouldn't pay attention to a strict timetable. My entire life seems like a timetable, so if I am on a vacation why should I worry about time?

I only say this because there are a couple of great ways to get around Korea. The fastest and most effective way to shuttle yourself from town to town is of course by bus in Korea. Korean buses are some of the most comfortable and affordable buses in the world. In addition as a bonus they are amazingly frequent. When I traveled from Seoul to Suncheon last year, I was able to travel after midnight in just four hours to Suncheon. Without a doubt buses are a surefire effective way to get around in The Republic of Korea.

Despite this, I like to take the train. It's true; the train is a bit slower, has less departures, stops more, and even worse none of my foreign friends seem to take the train so I am always alone in this regard. What I want to impart to you though is that even though it might take as much as an entire hour more to roll into Seoul, the journey is abundantly more enjoyable when traveling. For those who don't have the burden of keeping to a regimented timetable, the train is a wonderful option to get around.

The amenities on a train are quite good to start; there is a small restaurant, with sandwiches, meals, drinks and snacks- there is even a small Internet cafe, and a few video games to boot. Also the windows are large and clean so you can enjoy the picturesque scenery while zipping through the country side. What is even nicer than the bus that you can always get up and stretch your legs and use the bathroom. Since buses only stop once, those with weaker bladders might find a train more convenient. Finally, for those traveling into Seoul will also find comfort that the trains come in right in the center of the city.

Despite the fact that most people will tell you that the buses in this country are better, I tend to enjoy the trains more. For me the journey itself to a destination is an important part of traveling. Although it can be viewed as a childish notion, I have to say then so be it. If it's childish to enjoy taking more time to reach a destination, then let the chips fall as they may, for I will keep doing my thing, because I am that kind of traveler.

The Iron Curtains Are Still Closed!

2009-02-04T18:48:00.000-08:00

I have always been curious about North Korea. Maybe it's a part of my nature. The fact that a place can be so closed, mysterious, and mixed with an uncertain element of danger has compelled me recently to attempt to take a closer look. There are books, documentaries, articles and other forms of media which will portray life in North Korea; usually in a frightful, violent, Orwellian manner. I have seen many of these films and am currently reading an ambitious book called:'Under The Loving Care of Our Fatherly Leader,' by Bradley K. Martin. From what I have seen, I tend to believe a lot of that is true. In my opinion it's scary how one man(The Dear Leader,) can indoctrinate an entire society in believing that their people have great lives and the rest of the world is worse off-In spite of North Korea's food and electricity shortages, starvation, mandatory ten year military service requirements, and total media censorship.

Of course, these problems are among the most typically known to outsiders. Other individuals seem to think there prison camps, executions of deserters, and police checks to insure citizens have the right 'thinking.' To me it all sounds like a huge military dictatorship. Isn't that what it is anyway? Regardless of the aforementioned information, to me what is significant is that who really 'knows,' what goes on in north Korea? From what I believe it isn't the utopia that the previous dear leaders reiterate, however iron curtains really keep thinks hidden. To me the more a thing is hidden the more I want to uncover it.

Recently I wanted to visit North Korea. There are groups that arrange visits routinely from Beijing, however the cost is too dear. Too dear to contribute to the(sorry for the pun) Dear Leader's cause. About 2000 Euro for five days to be exact. For that fee you will get a guide/guard, a hotel room, and food. The guide is instructed to keep an eye on you at all times during the day-you can not roam freely in North Korea. Anyway, I'm saving my change for my potential graduate education soon, so I opted out of the Pyongyang experience. Instead I decided to take a day trip to Panmunjom settled in DMZ area between the two Korea's.

You can arrange from one of a plethora of tour companies in Seoul a day trip to Panmunjom and around the DMZ area for around sixty dollars-including lunch. The buses depart in the morning from Seoul to make the 60 or so kilometer journey north and then return around 3pm. The DMZ area is 155 kilometers long and four kilometers wide. It stretches two kilometers into South Korea, and the Same in North Korea. Panmunjom is right at the edge of the wide part of the DMZ poking into North Korea.

From there in my opinion was the highlight of the tour. There is a lookout where you can watch North Korean Soldiers watching you. As my camera targeted one soldier he immediately turned his binoculars in my direction. It was this little reflex that made me feel a bit that this wasn't a game for them, in spite of the fact that I was just a silly tourist.

As the tour continued we stopped at another lookout and saw Kijungdong, which is better known as Propaganda Village. This is a village built by North Koreans, which is supposedly completely vacated, but was built to appear as a attractive, desirable place to reside. Nestled in the center of the village is the massive ubiquitous flagpole, which is touted as the highest in the world. Other stops included; the introductory slide show showcasing the history of the region, The Bridge of No Return(which was were the PO W's returned to their native country,) and signing waivers acknowledging that the tour group was not liable for my shooting by pointing at North Koreans gestures.

Finally I had lunch with my group of fellow tourists(whom were all Japanese.) I was given my own bulgogi pot, while the others feasted together. It felt like another typical lunch as a foreigner traveling alone in Korea. Regardless, the food was good. After that I went back to Seoul and had a nap-which is the best way to end a good day. To conclude, it's true that I really didn't see 'much' about North Korea on this trip, however it did become apparent that Iron Curtain was still closed. What I wonder now though is if the curtains will eventually rust and deteriorate? What will happen then?

Please watch my slide show from this experience!

Something New

2009-02-03T06:47:00.000-08:00

I have been experiencing cultural overload the past few days. Currently I am holed up in my motel room in Seoul like a recluse trying to figure out how to impart to you the chaotic past few days that the proverbial hourglass of life has been burning away. I am torn between obliging myself to rest or to share some of my experiences with you I have partook in over the past month. In a way it is great, since sometimes I feel hard up for topics to expound upon (I wrote about food courts once,) and recently I have been feeling backlogged of things to mention. These days this is definitely not the case. After returning back from Poland after a relaxing vacation, I thrust myself unexpectedly into foreigner tourist mode in Korea quite quickly. Mind you I'm still jet-lagged. Most normal creatures would still be recovering from their long journey; not me. Anyway, because of these exhaustive past few days, I am going to give my brain, and body a break. I'll expound on many of the exciting things I have done in Korea in the next few days. Regardless, I am especially excited to share with you something that I have been experimenting with recently. This is a slide show of photos from my trip to Poland. So please enjoy and leave positive comments!

There's sound too!

Enjoying Poland, But a Couple of Things I Miss about Korea

2009-01-12T01:06:00.000-08:00

On Thursday I found myself short of funds so I intuitively reached into my secret luggage hiding place and seized some traveler checks that I had procured in Korea in order to exchange for some Polish Zloty. * Because of some befuddling reasons foreigners aren't allowed to use their Korean Atm cards outside of The RoK, I guessed it would be simply be a much of a muchness to transfer that same amount into checks. When it came to going on vacation with traveler checks I didn't have any problems. It had worked in Thailand, and it was problem free in Japan-and I even managed to receive an even exchange in sunny Cambodia!# However; just an FYI, that if you come to Poland with travelers checks, you'll either becloud the exchange agents and bankers or just get sent back out into the cold from where you came from.

When it finally did become apparent that I had found a place that was able to exchange my checks, which was in the main bank in the center of Warsaw, I was given a number and instructed to wait. I was used to waiting the ususual four or five minutes that is required in Suncheon. Furthermore I was expecting to be offered a free yoghurt drink by a pleasant bank clerk. Alas, neither of those possiblilites were the case. However, what I was verily expected to do was wait, and wait I did. After about thrity minutes the clerk hesitantly called me to her kiosk and glanced at the three hundred dollars in checks I had placed on the counter. She asked to see my passport, and then in the manner of a Vogon checking prisoner release forms instructed me to fill out some information on some dotted lines, which chewed up another half hour or so. When this was completed, some tidy little stamps were place on each document, which required my signature on each form. After signing, it was time for the signature inpsection on each piece. In completion of this step, I was told to write my home address. When this was completed, the clerk disappeard-with my passport. When she reappeared, she dutiffuly returned my passport, but disappeared again. Glancing at my mobile phone I noticed it had been just over an hour since I arrived in the bank.

When she re-reappeared she promptly gave me a sheet of paper with the exchange rate on it, but no money. However, she quickly instructed me to go to another window. I assumed that's where I would receive my money. Which was actually true. After an hour and ten minutes I exchanged my travelers' Checks. It was an even exchange rate to boot! So, if you come to Europe, I think it is best to use a bankcard, or cash. Even though American Express says 'don't leave home with out it,' you should leave the AMX Travelers Checks at the bank back home-or be prepared to spend much more time in a bank then you would in Korea-without yoghurt drinks!

Please don't think I am having a lousy time in Poland. In the end I was just pleased to get a fair exchange rate and be able to practice my Polish in a natural setting. It was so cold outside anyway, and the warm bank was a cozy place to duck out of the snowy, sloshy streets of Warsaw. Besides, when you are on vacation waiting isn't such a dilema. Anyway, it was cold last week. So cold in fact that I was completly unprepared by not actually packing long underwear. I never wore long underwear around in Korea. By not doing this I forgot how cold other parts of the world can actually be. Now that I have procured some, it isn't an issue, and the daytime tempratures are actually nearing zero! Since things are starting to warm up, I think I will saunter outside a bit today instead of looking at the days pass from inside.

*I have never really appreciated this law against foreigners. to me it seems a bit strange that those who are working legally in a country aren't able have the same monetary rights the locals have. Despite this being a positive blog about Korea, I thought it was necessary to write about in this entry since I wanted to explain my reasons for requesting traveler checks in the first place.

#It wouldn't take a genius to see that the above mentioned countries in the paragraph are all Asain, so I should have therefore done some research before I came to Europe instead of assuming that Europeans offered the same exchanges as Asains...anyway for your amusement, my number one rule in life is NEVER to ASSUME ANYTHING. It's also ironic that I ALWAYS ASSUME things.

Old 2008 in Review

2009-01-01T22:58:00.000-08:00

Well, it seems a new year has crept into existence. At least for me it has happened rather suddenly like a late spring snowfall. I felt like saying: 'oh it's you again Mr. New Year, didn't realize it was so soon. Well it's nice to see you, but please forgive me when I continue to write 2008 for the next six months or so.'

So anyway it's the time for many of us to break our resolutions(if we have any.) Not that I'm being a pessemist either, but have you met anyone who has ever made a New Year Resolution and actually kept it? It is in my experience that the people I have seen stop smoking, give up eating too much junk food, take up exercise after a twenty year abstention, take up the challege to watch less TV and etc. have all made the change in their life at a different time. I haven't met or heard of anyone who found the New Year prfound enought to actually empower individuals to change themseleves. Regardless, it's still a new year and if we have something 'new' well I guess we don't need to worry about 'old' 2008 if we don't want to.

Old 2008 was a great year for me. I had the good fortune to edutain so many curious Korean High School Students in Suncheon. They we mostly great students simply because of the fact that many of them at least tried some of the time. What if us Californian High School students had a Native Mexican Teacher in our classroom. Honestly, would ANY of us give a hoot? It would be a MASSIVE joke for a majority of us Bay Area teenagers, whom are mostly concerned with where they would go for lunch, and who's car would they pile into. Anyway; Although I had some discipline problems early in the year, I have to say it only took me a few minor adjustments to get things rolling. One only needs a little self-actualizatoin-and I emphasize a little!

Furthermore this year I started to fulfill a small dream of a few years standing of trying to play soccer. I had the good fortune this year to play with the Suncheon International Football Club. I must first say that soccer looks so simple and managealbe on television. They players don't look like their moving fast, but they're in fact sprinting like leapords, and have the agressiveness of Lions. For me this turned out to be a humbling expereince for about six continuous months. It wasn't until our final match in freezing December where I felt confident that I could compete with the teams in the region here. It just need to be in better shape next year, since another daunting task is being able to run around a soccer pitch for 90 minutes. Anyway, I'm half way there, which isn't a bad thing, is it?

Regarding sports, I also managed to obtain a black-belt in Taekwondo. It took me a year and a half of stretching, kicking, and doing forms, which in the end gave me the skills to sucessfully pass a Korean Black Belt Test. Despite the notoion that many people think a black belt equals Bruce Lee, it's acutally far from true. In Korea a Black Belt simply means you are offically ready to 'start' learning a martial art.

I also managed to volunteer a bunch of times for UNESCO as an American Cultural Presenter, which was a joy and a burden at the same time. Imagine spending seven or eight hours of prep time during your workweek, then waking up at seven a.m. on a Saturday and traveling two hours to speak to anywhere between 50 and 100 children. It's rewarding but tiring. In the end though, it was a great experience-and the free parties were a bonus!

Finally, I want to say I am currenlty on vacatoin away from Korea. I am presently typing away from my girlfriend's ThinkPad labtop computer in wonderful Poland! I will be away from Korea for an entire month, which is another nice thing about my life in Korea. When one teaches with a public school, they are afforded a plethora of vacation leave. So anyway, I spent my New Year's Eve here in the Warsaw City Center in an old fortress eating fusion Turkish and Mexican Food, while trying to immitate salsa dancing while ringing in the new year with free cocktails till five in the morning. I spent yesterday sleeping, and today i'm ready to start the new year. So from a korean teacher in Poland, Happy New Year!

Christmas in Korea

2008-12-25T04:13:00.000-08:00

I don't think I have ever eaten so much in one sitting at any time during my existence on this planet in a single day. If you put the food I consumed on a scale, you would undoubtedly have to buy a new scale after breaking it. Actually I fear the simple act of weighing myself. I wouldn't tip scales, but annihilate them. That's okay though, because today is Christmas. After strategically skipping breakfast, I sauntered downtown for a giant potluck style turkey dinner with fifty other teachers living in Suncheon, where we partook in a messy affair of eating copious amounts of turkey, stuffing, potatoes, lashed with tons of gravy topped with many other regional dishes including; pierogi, garlic bread, smoked salmon stuffed with cream cheese, and even a few vegetables on the side. Of course, that was the second best part. The highlight in my opinion was the rich, succulent desserts that were ripe for the picking after dinner was consumed. In record time I devoured a immodest slice of carrot cake, and a even larger slice of pumpkin pie with a dollop of whip cream. However that wasn't enough to satisfy me, so I inevitably had to load my plate a second time. In this round I just plopped down a couple of heaping scoops of a pudding, gram cracker, crumbly dish that somehow managed to melt in my mouth like fresh snow on a floor from boots in a warm cottage. In the end the final tally was four plates; two lunch, two desserts, and one giant stomach ache in the end.

Currently as I am typing away at ten o'clock on this chilly evening, the pain from all of this eating is beginning to subside. Because of this feeling of relief I am able to take a moment to reflect on the past few days in Suncheon and recall with a sense of pride that I was able to enjoy a Christmas holiday filled with joy, friendship, cheer, a little wine adding some cheer assistance, and an amazingly large feast that was quite favorable to the taste buds. Additionally, something else that I think I experienced for the first time in a long time is that I didn't feel any inclination to buy any presents. This has been the first time, I enjoyed Christmas without buying or receiving a single present! In spite of not receiving a 'Red Ryder BB Gun,' this Christmas was a grand experience.

As a majority of Koreans don't really celebrate Christmas the way we western consumers do, I didn't feel compelled to make a list of all of those creatures that end up on the gift receiving end of my life every December. Instead of gift buying here, I simply burned a few Cd's for folks to give them a taste of my own holiday taste, then I simply donned a Santa Hat and became Jolly for a week. I must say, that I have been having a fabulous time this holiday. This past week at school we have been making Christmas cards, playing games, and rocking out to 'Ultra Lounge Christmas Classics.' Although Christmas is a multi-million dollar economy boosting holiday, I was just as happy giving the consumer life a skip. The only consumption I was happy to partake in was the stomach filling sort.

That's not to say that Koreans don't avoid Christmas. The neon lights here are blinding, the decorations are ubiquitous, the in-store Christmas carols are omnipresent, and Frosty, Rudolph, Santa and his gang of characters are in full force here. It's still a national holiday, which most Christians celebrate. As not all Koreans are Christan, a majority of Koreans don't really celebrate the holiday like most of us do when it comes to gift giving. Therefore there isn't that social pressure of feeling an obligation to buy presents for people.

Unfortunately I have noticed an increase in Christmas buzz this year around The ROK and in light of this it seems that Christmas related things have been much more convenient to find. There was only one or two shops that had Christmas cards last year. However, you can find in numerous shops around downtown where you can not only find cards, but other Christmas accessories like mugs, plates, stuffed animals hats, and other creations. You can even find shops with trees-plastic of course. Therefore I guess it's just a matter of time before the notion of feeling compulsed to buy gifts becomes a way of life here too. As Koreans develop quickly, it will almost certainly be a way of life here too. Regardless, I had a joyful, food centered Christmas with a few friends that was quite memorable. I hope you did too. Merry Christmas!

Up For the Challenge Part 2

2008-12-18T04:49:00.000-08:00

There are two words in the English language that have left me befuddled today when it came to noting the difference between the pair. The words are; ubiquitous, and quintessential. I get the gist. I not a genius, but I can use a dictionary. The former meaning being everywhere at the same time, while the later means a perfect example of something. That's fine, but in the context of the main idea of what I wish to expound upon in this anecdote involves a food that is a little bit of both of that pair of wonderfully sounding words. It's ubiquitous because; well it's everywhere that's for sure. It's at the market, at school, on the street, at home-in fact you would be hard up to find a location in which it didn't turn up. That's ubiquitous! Now the thing which I am writing about is also a perfect example of what we eat in Korea-it's very quintessential. It's the same food-stuff that I've nearly consumed twice daily in the last couple of years-give or take a few days. It's the same edible substance that would generate many negative comments in the school cafeteria if your tray didn't have it. It's also the same fare that is not only served up in a plethora of main dishes, but it's also served with EVERY Korean meal as a side dish you partake in. Actually, I can feel it in my stomach at this moment after my evening feed. For those of you who aren't living in Korea, I'll help you. That food is Kimchi. Yes, it's the ubiquitous and the quintessential thing here. I like to call it 'quintiquous!'

Anyway, for those of you who haven't had the grace of good fortune to sample this little delicacy, then I guess a short description is imperative. It's essentially spicy, fermented cabbage. Depending on the region of the country various ingredients are mixed with the leaves and then stored in a large pot for several months. The usual assortment of things that comprise kimchi are: cabbage, salt, red chili pepper, anchovies, and garlic. The Kimchi is then often used to make into a stew and to be served cold on the side with your meal.

That being said; When I came to Korea I should note I was a little intimidated by the exotic redness and distinct peppery, fermented taste. It took me a few sittings to get accustomed to eating it, and even a few more to develop a fondness for it. As of now I eat it every day. My favorite is Kimchi Jigae, which is a spicy soup with Kimchi, Tofu, and Pork. If I am feeling a little daring I'll devour a bowl of 'Chamchi Jigae,' which is the same but with tuna. However, I also enjoy it ala carte! I relish using the kimchi on the side to mix with my rice. That way I am able to curb the spiciness a little and enjoy the somewhat bland rice more. It's a win win!

Historically Kimchi isn't a new development either. I think chronologically it's technically older than Jesus. As far back as 2600 years ago a report was found in a Chinese text of a mysterious thing called 'Ji,' which pre-dated the later translation, which was later called 'Chimchae,' which meant 'soaked vegetables.' Later it linguistically evolved into what is today's Kimchi. Also, Kimchi used to be quite spice less. It wasn't until about 8 hundred years ago when the original method of soaking cabbage with salt water morphed into a method of preparing the spicier ingredients that give Kimchi it's notable flavor. That notable flavor of course is on the tip of every creatures tongue in curious place.

As I was writing last week, I noted that some individuals made themselves famous by eating copious amounts of McDonald's hamburgers and nuggets on a daily basis and then living to tell the tale; albeit barely. Well, for your information, I have been eating more than copious amounts of Kimchi here on a daily basis and I just want to inform you my dear reader that I am not only living, breathing, and quite contentedly typing away right now, I am in fact probably much healthier than those unfortunate souls who felt compelled to partake in their greasy challenge. I think they should consider eating kimchi every day for a while. At least it'll be healthier. That is because Kimchi is laden with vitamins. One serving has almost all of the required vitamin c you need for a day. It also has four or five other essential vitamins and nutrients (including a few from the a-z vitamin list that I don't really understand which vitamin does what.)

So as I mentioned earlier eating kimchi at first might be a bit daunting because of it's spiciness, however one must admit that it's easy to get an acquired penchant for this tasty vegetable. Since it's tasty for most of us-so tasty in fact that we eat it every single day with full compliance and little struggle, and since it's so darn healthy, it's hard to argue that kimchi is a bad thing. Since my blog is about good things in Korea, why not write about it? Also remember that it's ubiquitous, so when someone is taking your photo here, remember to say 'Kimchi!'

Up for the Challenge Part1

2008-12-12T16:33:00.000-08:00

Teaching at a public high school in Korea can be a breezy undertaking. Despite the fact that many foreign teachers are blessed with the daunting task of entertaining, and having to elicit English speech from close to a thousand noisy, often uninterested students weekly, it must be noted that we only have to teach twenty hours a week. Yes, in America, we tend to be captivated by the stories of the prodigious ability of Korean students in the classroom. After living here I must attest that most of that is true, however these Koreans are still students. In my case High School students. So it would only be logical to accept that even Korean students like to be boisterous and turn a deaf ear to their patient American teacher from time to time. It can be disconcerting at times. Although in my opinion, the perks one receives as a high school teacher in Korea heavily outweigh the negatives. At least in my case-especially on Fridays. Since I only have two classes on Fridays, I essentially have an entire day to myself.

If you are reading this in your own nation thinking: "well, I could use an extra day to tidy up around here." Or maybe:"I really want to have more time to sit in a coffee shop and read this highly captivating book I was just given by my friend who said it was unputdownable." Then you are not me! As I am already afforded a light day every week, I have the luxury to spend it idly reading, going to the bank, playing a little guitar, sending postcards to long lost overworked friends, searching for movie times, or even writing in this blog. Whereas my situation two years ago in America was quite different. I actually had to WORK for eight hours. These days I am bestowed with a nice opportunity to ease into the weekend.

Yesterday, in fact was Friday and I must say that I took full advantage of my light working duties to partake in one of my favorite activities; reading. Actually, on Thursday a friend loaned me a book that was rumored to be a good read so I snatched it from him and deposited it in my bag for Friday. I had no intentions of making Friday a reading day, but sometimes once I start something, it's difficult for me to finish. Anyway, the book in question was Chuck Klosterman's IV, which is an unedited creation of interviews with famous people. However, my short description is just to give you the basic idea of the book. What's interesting is not really the concept of the book itself, but the nexus of it is the fact that the interviewer is able to speak to such a diverse sweep of preeminent, big cheeses. He had em' all from Plant, to Brittney.

Anyway, one article that I found curious was Mr. Klosterman's brave undertaking of trying to survive for an entire week on mere diet of McDonald's Chicken Nuggets. Surprisingly he lived to write about it. That was back in 1996, and since he did in fact live to tell his brave tale, he was also fortunate to interview later the gentleman who created Super Size Me. Super Size Me of course is the documentary about the guy who only eats McDonald's for 30 days. Unlike Klosterman, he was afforded the luxury of eating french fries and burgers. However, he ate McDonald's for an entire month! That's a lot of burgers, fries and cokes!

So, as I was reading about McDonald's on my relaxing Friday, I suddenly had the urge to take a little field trip away from school. Around one o'clock yesterday, I sauntered outside, jumped on the 77 bus and traveled five minutes to old downtown to the ubiquitous golden arches. I hadn't sampled their greasy, bland, boxy tasting food for a while, so something inside of me made me compelled to partake in a McDonald's binge. I just had a sudden calling. Reading does that to me sometimes. Especially reading about food. For example; if anyone reads Haruki Murakami novels, they know that writer uses spaghetti a lot in his stories. Every time I read Murakami I crave spaghetti, and only spaghetti. So now here I was at McDonald's with a Shanghai Spicy Chicken Sandwich, a spicy chicken burrito thing, fries, and a Coke right in front of me. It was a quiet, but ambitious challenge, and I rose to the challenge and devoured the food in under five minutes. I was hungry.

Anyway, despite many human's distaste of McDonald's, I have to say if you don't partake in these greasy adventures on a rare occasion, then it is you who is missing out. Although, as I was pondering those brave writers and filmmakers who rose to macho challenges of eating one thing for a particular period of time, I naturally had to think of all the brave, unnoticed souls who curiously eat the same thing in Korea every day and never seem to complain. That food of course is Kimchi. Since I was eating McDonald's, I told myself that I hadn't eaten Kimchi yet this day.

The striking thing is that I can't remember a day in Korea, where I didn't eat it. What was even more unsettling is that I had already made plans to eat pizza with some friends for dinner at Mr. Songs Pizza in a Cup, and he didn't serve Kimchi on the side; just pickles. Therefore, I was looking at my first kimchiless day in Korea. Here I was on a quiet Friday, satisfied from a rare fast food fill, about to return to a pleasant read in a coffee shop. That's how Fridays are for me; pleasant. However, it was strange to discover that I wouldn't eat Kimchi for a day. I actually like kimchi. Since I enjoy sampling it, and it is one of most ubiquitous things in Korea, I think I will take a pause for today and write a short tribute to it next time. It's time for lunch, I'm thinking Korean food today.

A Bigger Fish

2008-11-30T18:07:00.000-08:00

For those who haven't been acquainted with me socially as a foreigner living in Suncehon would be quite taken aback by some of the nicknames that are thrown at me by basic default. At least it surprises me. Since I have a bass guitar, which no one else in Suncheon really does, I go by 'Music Dan.' Also I guess not many other people are from the San Francisco Bay Area down in these parts, therefore it seems that I have been labeled by some as 'San Fran Dan,' or just 'San Fran' for short.

The fact that I have never really lived in San Francisco is a detail that is easily overlooked or not seriously regarded as an imperative requirement for my title of resident San Franciscan. I am actually from a small town called Castro Valley, which is about 35 kilometers from downtown San Francisco. Anyway, despite my Californian breeziness, and knowledge of the San Francisco Bay Area, it must be noted that those things did nothing for me in San Francisco. Unfortunately I was just some guy named Dan, who wasn't interesting in San Francisco's eyes. There is nothing wrong with normalcy, but it's just so much more gratifying to come to Korea and to be regarded as diplomat from a place that is so wonderful.

I think it's a good thing too. I enjoy talking about my home and offering advice on places to visit and making recommendations on things to do and see. Because of my interest of making San Francisco seem attractive to Koreans and foreign residents alike, I volunteered for the UNESCO Cross Cultural Awareness Program in Jeollanamdo Province. I think it's quite a rewarding opportunity to go to schools and other venues to give brief but informative presentations about one's homeland. I have been doing this for about a year now, and I have to say that it's been quite an amazing experience.

What's compelling for me is the fact that I am afforded some opportunities to be regarded as someone to be counted on. Maybe that sounds odd, but the fact that I have spent most of my life swimming upstream as a small fish fighting to be a person who does have some experience and some things to share with the world, makes me feel like a slightly bigger fish for a change. For me it has been wonderful to come to Korea and be inaugurated as 'San Fran Dan,' to speak on behalf of such a majestic place. I even get to showcase my musical skills as well, since at the end of the presentation I usually give a short American musical demonstration. So in short I could also be called 'San Fran Music Dan.' However, just Dan will suit me just fine. It's nice to feel important for a change.

I think in life we all want to leave footprints. Speaking on behalf of myself at least, I want to exist in a place where my actions are noticed from time to time, while the results of those actions leave a positive impression with whoever happens to cast a passing glance or attentive ear. The fact that I was graced with the opportunity to act as sort of a cultural diplomat in Korea has been a endearing experience. The fact that it's so convenient for many of us foreign characters living here to partake in these types of programs makes it even more appealing to live here.

Another Rock Turned Up!

2008-11-19T02:22:00.000-08:00

I admit that I am not by any means vertically challenged, although it must be dully noted that my height doesn't necessarily exceed that of someone of a more elevated nature. If you tested the height of a dutch male, a penguin, and myself I would undoubtedly measure in at second place slightly ahead of the cuter Arctic waddler. Because of my modest height, I confess that growing up afforded me few advantages when playing sports. Despite my best efforts to play baseball, a little basketball, some tennis, and even a semester of ultimate Frisbee, I'll admit that my height didn't play any advantage in terms of ability. In fact in retrospect, in my less than average stature, my inclination to even involve myself in athletic endeavors seemed to prove a giant miscalculation on my part.

That all changed last May. Despite the fact that I have been an abject failure at most team sports, I never actually really gave soccer a shot. Since I am such a like able fellow, I get on quite well with the players of the local foreigner soccer team in Suncheon. The Suncehon Soccer club, or SIFC; for Sunchoen International Football Club, let me come out to one of their games last May. I played for an entire half, and by the end it was obvious that I was as hopeless as I was at any other sport. During that inaugural match the players on my own team began shouting at me like I was an enemy. According to them I couldn't pass, I couldn't shoot; apparently I couldn't even touch the ball correctly. However, after the game I was by some great fortune invited to come to practices. Eventually I managed to handle myself a bit better. In the end, I have put in a lot of hard work, which I have learned is 90 percent to achieving anything. Although, I actually feel that my limited tallness has given me an advantage that with hard work can make me into a decent player. If you don't believe me, look at Wayne Rooney, or Lionel Messi! Shorter people usually make better soccer players because of their lower center of gravity and are able to control the ball more efficiently.

Because of my hard work I am now starting to slowly feel like a contributor to the team instead of being the teams Achilles heel. Please understand that this is no easy feat to achieve for anyone; especially by myself in such a minimal amount of time. Soccer isn't exactly the 'girls' sport many Americans claim. If you disagree, try sprinting up and down a football field for 90 minutes only to stop at 1 minute intervals to slide tackle someone running into you. It isn't fishing. Regardless, what I want to share with you is the tremendous sunny weekend I had this weekend past in the city of Ulsan at an international soccer tournament.

Ulsan is a city that is practically hidden by the shadows of gigantic Busan. Busan is a mega city with beaches and nightife that can contend with many formidable international destinations, so it's no surprise that not many people visit Ulsan. What is surprising though, is that Ulsan has over a million residents. It's practically the size of Gwangju. Additionally, it's a pretty interesting town to boot! Shame on you Lonely Planet for not even including it in your book.

Fortunately, I had the opportunity to take a couple of days to explore a bit. The main part of the city is divided by a giant river, which has a plethora of parks lining the banks. There is an overabundance of verdant trees and new soccer fields, which is a rare treat for a foreigner living in Suncheon. Also on each side of the river there are several pockets of that ubiquitous downtown 'buzz' that Korea is so famous for. There are many places to meander during the day, pose for photos, have lunch shop and enjoy the scenery. Additionally, that buzz continues into the night a large selection of colorful downtown pedestrian zones, restaurants, cafes, and bars that will put a smile on even the hardest to satisfy. What is especially nice, is that I was completely surprised by this. I had no idea that I would be visiting such an inviting city. It just goes to show that no matter how long you live in a place, that there is always another rock to turn up.

The soccer tournament was a success too of course. We won our first match, then fought hard to reach the quarter finals. We lost, but you need to understand our team is from a city of less than half a million. Suncheon is half the size of Ulsan. We aren't even a shadow of Gwangju, additionally we are even too small to be a metaphorical little brother. We are like a grandchild to mighty Gwangju. This being said, I think you can appreciate the success we've accomplished after competing with teams from the ranks of Busan, Daegu, Gwangju and Ulsan. Regardless of winning or losing though, what is important is that we could stand tall in a city with a group of guys from a low population, and still enjoy ourselves in a surprisingly big and exciting town.

Memories on a Monday

2008-11-09T17:53:00.000-08:00

As I crawled out of bed on this frosty November Monday morning I hit the snooze button and curled back into my blankets like an arm in a sling and fell right back into my slumber for another eight minutes. Which is the same feat I later managed to accomplish another four times before succumbing to the inevitable Monday obligatory drudgery of getting dressed and hurrying to work. Despite my trademark cold morning gruff behavior I at least admit that the view from my apartment this morning was especially sunny and clear. In the distance beyond downtown Suncheon I briefly took peek a the clear blue region known as Suncehon Bay, which lies just eight kilometers from Suncheon.

As it is a seasonably chilly Monday, and as most Mondays will continue in this fashion for several months, I am compelled to reminisce about a day spent hiking in late spring around Suncheon Bay and Eco Park. As I have mentioned beforehand, it's conveniently located about eight kilometers from downtown Suncheon. There are several buses that reach the park, however a quicker option would be to just hop in a cab, which only costs between eight and ten thousand won. Once you arrive at the foot of the park, you will be inundated with tall grasslands at a trail head that winds for a kilometer or so through a marshy mudflat area. After advancing along the trail a bit, the mudflat becomes more sea like and you can get a glimpse of some tour boats that head out towards the Korean Strait. Additionally, In this interesting pocket of a swampy sea border you can also catch a glimpse of many interesting migratory birds in flight.

After a kilometer or two the trail begins to push upward. Since me and my sporty girlfriend welcomed the challenge, we continued up for a while. We didn't expect too much in terms of a steep hike, but regardless this is exactly what we were given. As the grade increased it seemed both of us were feeling exceedingly brave with each marching step we managed. From the top the reward paid off in spades. For example, On one hand the flatter, more manageable part of the path, there are a surplus of visitors. However, with each passing step up there seems to be a gradual decrease of humans, which makes the day seem far more peaceful. Also, as many panoramic views from Korea are stunning, the view from above of Suncheon Bay was no exception. There is something about the landscape in this country that is truly unique.

As we stopped for a couple of snapshots and a rest, I really began to wonder what is it about this landscape that I really hold with such a high regard. I guess the main reason is the fact that there are so many mountains that are so close to the sea. They are in their own rights impressive enough. The sea and mountains are equally impressive natural beauties that posses the power to inspire or pacify a great deal of us; not to mention an American living in Korea. What's especially nice about Korea is that you have so many areas of sea and mountain space together. In addition to Suncheon Bay, locally there are the vast coastal areas around Gwanyang, Yeosu, and Nokdong. These areas all offer a picturesque blend of mountain and sea panoramics.

So as I lazily gaze out of my eighteenth story window on this frosty November morning past the city towards the East Sea, while struggling to find a clean shirt, and a useable coffee cup, I tell myself that if I didn't have to drag myself to work today I could do a lot of exploring out in that vast distance beyond. Since I am not a friend of the colder climates, I would object from venturing far today though. However, just to imagine doing it makes me feel warmer inside, which is a good thing for a cold day, isn't it? Because of this, in the spirit of the ever decreasing climate temperatures I reckon I will make a similar posting next week, so stay tuned.

A Monthly Gathering

2008-10-30T04:29:00.001-07:00

Last Saturday was one of the more anticipated days for me as a foreigner in South Korea. I have been practicing the mentally exhausting and physically draining sport of Taekwondo for over a year now, and I was finally given the opportunity to showcase my kicks and forms for my official black belt test. I had trained with a reasonably disciplined work ethic, and in the end I think it paid off. Since I am prone to give up on things prematurely I have to admit I am especially pleased to have accomplished something requiring effort. Moreover a black belt with my name in English and Korean would look cool on the mantelpiece.

As I worked diligently for the test, I had little difficulty. Regardless, I was surprised on how fast the actual test flew by anyway. You see, it wasn't just me going for a belt this Saturday. This was the monthly testing in Suncheon, which simply meant that it was an entire day affair with close to five hundred other testers including myself. The candidates for belts were led up in groups of ten to swiftly go through a couple of forms, then with little time to waste were whisked across the floor of the stadium to do some kicks and sparring. After this, it was time for the next group. This was the way it went for the entire day.

On one side you are afforded a glimpse on just how popular the sport is in Korea. Suncheon isn't a small city by Korean comparisons, but there sure were a lot of children and adults who piled into Palma Gym to test for their belt. Imagine 500 students testing for a black belt every month. That's a lot of black belts in Suncheon. Suncheon has given itself the nickname as 'The City of Beautiful People,' however it could have been more appropriately coined: 'The City of Black Belts, So Watch Out!'

What was even more interesting, was the atmosphere inside. Imagine going into a small, crowded arena and seeing a large congregation of five hundred strong punching, kicking, kyeoping(spell check,) stretching, and practicing. Also imagine fitting parents, grandparents, brothers, sisters, girlfriends and boyfriends with cameras as well. Korea can be a cozy place, and last Saturday was no exception.

As the day wore on, I was getting nervous. You see, including myself, there were only three foreigners testing. That meant that many eyes would fall upon us as we went through our routine. However, as the adults tested later, and most of the parents and children had departed, we managed to test in relative quietness. Despite that, there were more than a few curious onlookers to see how the 'waygook' would manage. The crowd who did watch us, was actually really supportive, which I found gratifying. As a foreigner in Korea you have to adjust yourself to be able to deal with a large amount of attention. Sometimes though, like on Saturday, it was a joy to be able to show off my kicks for curious onlookers. So if you find yourself with nothing to do next month, head over to Palma Gym in Suncheon and check out a black belt test.

It's Not Even Lunch Time!

2008-10-22T06:30:00.000-07:00

This year I've had the good fortune to act as a type of diplomat from my country to a small handful of schools in this province. By default I am the lone American UNESCO Cross Cultural Awareness Presenter in Jellonamdo Province. I belong to a group of cultural presenters from a whole slew of nations from Canada to Nepal. Interestingly there are three representatives from Nepal, four from Bangladesh, and even three Canadians to boot! In this province alone there are approximately 40 or so individuals from different countries that give little presentations about their homeland, which gives Korean children a glimpse into the homes and lives of a variety of cultures from around the world. What's curious is that I'm the only American. I have no idea how that came to be. Americans seem to be so outgoing, and eager to share things about their country. How did I become the only one here?

Anyway, there are many things I don't understand, therefore adding another one to the list won't do much harm. More importantly, what I do essentially is travel to schools and talk about America. It's nothing special; some photos, a simple ditty on my acoustic guitar, a lesson in making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, pose for a few snapshots with the kids, then I go home. Well, actually I should backtrack a little before the going home bit and explain that I am obliged to go and meet the other teachers and principal at the school first before I am free to depart . It's a formality here, and it's gotta be done.

When entering a Korean school as a visitor one must always take note to greet the principal formally when entering, and in my case with these presentations when leaving as well. I always feel awkward when doing this, but I just keep smiling. Anyway, last Saturday I gave a little presentation to a group of fourth graders in Kwangju and as I was escorted to say goodbye to the principal and some other teachers, I was invited to the most enormous buffet at a non meal time I had ever seen. You see, it just before eleven o'clock. It was past breakfast, and everyone would most likely be eating lunch a couple of hours later. So here I was staring at a huge buffet of several types of chicken, tomatoes, grapes, rice cakes, beverages and so on. What is even more astonishing in retrospect for me at least is that I wasn't even the slightest bit surprised. In Korea, this is normal; it's business as usual. There is always food. As I'm an American, this is a good thing.

This happens quite frequently if you spend time in Korea. For example, any foreign teacher who goes through the volleyball ritual will know what I mean; Play a few sets, have some snacks, play one more, eat some of the take out food brought to the game, drink few cups of beer or rice wine and be merry, then go home and have dinner. Since this is typically done immediately after school, but before dinner time you can still meet up with friends and enjoy pizza in the evening.

Many times I'll go to dinner on a invitation from some hospitable Koreans, and later proceed to a bar or cafe to only be offered more food. Most bars have interesting menus that vary from fruit dishes to festive prawn and chicken platters, to even simple french fries. Additionally all cafes have at least several cake or other dessert choices. You can even find cheesecake. It's normal to have a Korean barbecue, then adjourn to a bar to have some fruit and snacks. Koreans seem to want to keep their guest happy, and one way of doing that is making sure there is an abundance of food available at all times. One should never go hungry here. It's impossible. I think if I had the chance to explain to American children about life in Korea I would make them all jealous by saying that Koreans have better snack times than Americans; and what American doesn't love snack time?

Lost and Found

2008-10-09T16:54:00.000-07:00

Who doesn't forget those grand American barber shop experiences? The barbers with bowling shirts that are meant to be fashionable, the guys with one syllable names like; Mitch, Doug, and Nick(pun intended,) the incessant A/C blowing, and the omnipresence of aftershave aroma burning your nostrils. The alarming swiftness which those guys are able to finish cutting your hair with dangerously sharp scissors. Moreover, their ability to shape your hair with sharp things while watching sports on their five inch television located on the opposite side of the barber shop. I always admired their ability to squint at the television screen criticising Chris Mullin's dribbling abilities, or praising Mike Tyson's jabs while successfully cutting my hair. How could impressions like these ever escape anyone? At least I still remember these things. In addition, I remember in greater detail the day I went into a barber shop and came out with my bike stolen.

It was a warm, Saturday evening in July. I was 12, and I rode my white Skyway bmx style bike the two blocks to Castro Valley's Village Barber Shop to get the hair chopped. It was the normal monthly routine. I even had a nice lock for the bike that was shaped like a hook, which if it was used correctly the bike became impenetrable. Despite this, my laziness would be the determining factor in this instance. Since I would be sitting in a chair next to a widow, I had decided that I could leave the bike unlocked and unattended. So there I was watching baseball in the barber chair. This time it was Mike who was quickly snipping away, while commenting on the A's chances for the post season with that new Mark McGuire kid. We watched an inning or so, then I paid my ten bucks, took the free gum and opened the door to an empty, bike less sidewalk. I panicked a little, but didn't realize it was gone immediately. I popped back inside the barber shop and told the guys inside if they saw anyone with a bike. The customers inside said 'we saw nothin!' To make this long story short, the bike was stolen. It was stolen quickly and easily. The lesson here is that in small Californian towns children will steal other children's bikes more frequently than petty stoners in Amsterdam will steal a backpacker's bike.

More over, I think children stole a lot of things from me. I said goodbye to an innumerable amount of items when I was young. For example an expensive baseball jacket went missing a mere few days after I had received it as a birthday present. Children in America seem to have a itchy hand for other children's belongings, and if you leave something there for the taking, it will be nicked. Additionally, This mentality of snatching left behind items seems to cross over the age barrier in America too. It's only common sense that if you are an adult to keep an eye on your stuff.

My reason for writing this is that recently I've been thinking about these situations, because I've been noticing that I tend to be a bit absent minded, therefore I make it easier for things to go missing. Case in point, last week I brought my lab top computer to a soccer match. After the matched we adjourned to our traditional post match meeting spot in Shidae; the Mini-Stop 'patio'. It wasn't until a beer and an ice-cream later that I realized that my personal belongings seemed lighter than usual. My initial panic gave me the chills like I had a serious illness. After informing the soccer players of my recent misfortune, many of them shared my worries, although after a brief moment, one of the more seasoned individuals living in Korea stated that; this was Korea, and no one would take it.

It immediately felt reassuring. I've lived here for close to two years now, and I can actually attest to this notion that Koreans don't really steal so much is completely valid. I am not imparting that Koreans will never nick anything, but I can tell you from experience, that I feel at the least a hundred times more confident being an absent minded fool here in South Korea than I do in California. Anyway, I jumped in a taxi and went back to the stadium where another game was going on. I jogged straight to the sidelines and there on the bench in between several excited Korean players looking at me was my lab top. They knew immediately, which was easy to tell from their shouts of 'notebook, notebook, here here!' I didn't even have to go through the usual 'what color is it?' interrogation that we are accustomed to in America. I felt relieved to have something back so easily.

This isn't the first time I had forgotten something important behind in Korea only to have it exist in the same place when I returned either. I managed the same feat with a digital camera in a Norebong (karaoke room). Although some teenagers took the liberty of taking a few snapshots with it, they still left it there for their owner to collect it unscratched. I've also done the same with keys, mp3 players, shiny coffee mugs, and cell phones. In all of these instances the objects I had absently left behind have all been there collecting dust in the same location where I had left them. This wouldn't happen in America. If you disagree with me, go ahead; leave your bike in front of the barber's.

Ps...just this week alone my taekwondo teacher has left his keys in the ignition to his scotter downstairs in front of our dojon, only to come back an hour later both times to not only see his scotter there untouched, but also his keys safely in the ignition!!

Content in Court!

2008-09-24T21:05:00.000-07:00

I have to admit that I am a curiously busy creature. Taekwondo, Music, Soccer, UNESCO presentations, avid reading, blogging, attempts at learning foreign languages, struggling to write a decent children's book in time before the coming millennium, and not to mention my job, are all activities that I partake in with some frequency during my weekly routine. Sometimes I marvel at the fact that I am able to eat-and sleep to boot! Yet, Despite my ability to survive under these relatively hectic circumstances, I must emphasize that it comes with some difficulty.

Oftentimes I will have the notion that what I am doing is rewarding, and my actions are helping me grow as a human. Moreover I find that all of the activities I do are endearing, and the mere actions of doing these things are gratifying. Who wouldn't like to to learn a martial art? What person would frown upon the good, honest exercise of kicking a soccer ball around? Wouldn't any normal person want to get that book idea on paper? Maybe my music, and blogging makes me a bit of a narcissist, but nonetheless I enjoy it and therefore continue with it. The only hurdle I face week in and week out of doing all of the things I enjoy of course is the hurdle of time. Time is one of life's great enemy's.

Since there is only so much of this precious thing called time, which Warren Buffet couldn't even afford to purchase, then we need to make the most of it. In order to do the things we want in life, we initially need to be ace time managers. It isn't easy for anyone, especially someone like myself-who also believes excess sleep is a healthy pursuit that should also be practiced by everyone. In addition I also believe in taking the time to eat at least one decent meal in a day. For this reason alone; it's good that I live in Korea. Now you might turn your nose up and say tut tut at what I am about to impart to you, but in Korea they actually have really tasty food courts, which offer cheap, healthy options.

From many years of experience of being an American, I have learned that one of the quintessential things about life in America is that there is a readily available supply of convenient cheap food. Like Koreans, American lives are proven to be just as busy, if not busier. So to attempt to shave off a few minutes, many of us Yanks will eat greasy fast food. It's the same cheap, greasy fast food that is offered daily at countless food courts across America. If you venture to a shopping mall in America you will see for yourself the array of time saving, calorie adding options that are readily available. Hot dogs on sticks with french fries, pizza slices with enough grease to clog several arteries, fried chicken, with fried cheesy sticks, and even more fried, cheesy type dishes. Despite the fact that this stuff ironically tastes pretty darn good, I think it is no secret that if you eat this kind of garbage every day, it will kill you. What's the use of saving time, if you are going to spend those remaining days in a hospital bed? Coincidentally, in Korea, their food courts have healthy time saving options. You'll spend more time doing the things you want, while eating quick healthy meals.

For example, at Kim's Club, which is conveniently located next to my apartment building, offers at least three or four dishes where the majority of the calories will be in the rice. In less than five minutes you can have a semi-spicy kinchi jigae (which is like a kimchi stew) for less than four dollars. You could also enjoy a semi-sweet bulgogi stew, which is like a beef stew. If you like spicy, or even really frigging spicy, sample the fiery tofu stew at about the same price. By the way your eyes aren't deceiving you. I really did say tofu. Tofu is astonishingly healthy, and it's readily available in many dishes in all food courts across Korea.

In Suncheon, I can immediately name four establishments that have food courts. It's not a large city, but there are plenty of dining options. Kim's Club is my top choice because it's the most accessible to me, and moreover I think the industrious cooks there give more of a personal touch to the dishes. Kim's Club is smaller and is frequented by less customers. Home Plus, E-Mart, and Home Ever all have food courts as well, but are busier, so the cooks there seem to just lash out meals faster with out paying too much attention to the details. Anyway, Each food court does has it's own unique atmosphere, yet the bottom line; like any food court is to save time. So if you come to Korea, and you find yourself in a food court here's some tips to make your order more successful.

First of all, you won't be approached by a waiter. This is fast food rules, so if you can't wait, no one will wait on you. You have to go to the main counter, which is usually located in front of where the informal seating area is. There is a large array of convenient displays of all the food dishes that offer help for anyone unable to read in Hangul. Once you have made your selection point at your dish, hand over your money and keep your receipt. The clerk will then inform you where to pick up your food. There are usually four or five restaurants in the food court area, and each one prepares a different style of food. On your receipt will be a little number. This will be the number of your order. Once your number comes up, go over and retrieve your food. Remember to say thank you too to the gracious hardworking woman who prepared it. If you get thirsty, just grab a metal cup from the water cooler, and pour yourself all the water you can drink. You'll need it, if the food's spicy.

So if you are a busy soul like myself, and you feel like you are always running from one point to another, remember that eating fast food indeed will save time. A stitch in time does save nine, but a stitch in time eating unhealthy fast food will require stitches to re-attach your broken buttons. If you aren't in Korea, and you are lured by unhealthy food courts then for your own health resist the temptation and find a supermarket.

A Harvest Moon

2008-09-16T18:12:00.000-07:00

When I crawled out of bed from an uninterrupted twelve hour slumber on Sunday morning, I realized that the day seemed curiously silent. Despite the fact that Suncheon is a relatively small Korean city, it can be as noisy and as bustling as any large Western city. This is because Korea is simply full of life. Suncehon is like any other Korean city; that is, it's full of buzz twenty four hours a day. Cars like to toot their horns freely at all hours, sellers like to announce their products on giant loud speakers in the wee morning hours, and even a few late night revelers add to a normal mix of the outside atmosphere that deprives me of my beauty sleep. I have to say I was a little taken aback that I got so much sleep. I took a minute to make some coffee to wake myself up. Then I enjoyed the peace and quiet, and realized that this day was so quiet because it was Chuseok. For those of you not living here, Chuseok is a holiday.

It's celebrated during the full moon in the eighth month of the Korean lunar calendar. The holiday is actually observed for three days, but the first day is the most celebrated. Koreans typically travel to their hometowns and reunite with their families. Then they all travel to their ancestors' graves, which are giant mounds built on top of the earth, and then covered in grass. This is done in the morning. The family then brings out food as an offering to the deceased, after they bow and pay their respects. The families might picnic at the site as well, and later will pitch in to help tidy up the area around the grave site.

After this the family will return home and enjoy a feast. Chuseok is also sort of a harvest holiday. With most things in Korea food is important, and with a harvest holiday on top of everything, food is even more vital. The quintessential food is Song peon, which is a Korean style rice cake. These take hours to make, but are very tasty. They have a gummy texture to them, which might be strange for any newbie to Korea, but if you've lived here as long as an old pro like myself then they are appreciated. Moreover, Korea used to be a really poor country, so this was one time where people would enjoy food that they might not have had the luxury to taste at another time. These days, the country is economically stable, but regardless a nice meat dish would typically be served as well as some glass noodles, with plenty of spicy side dishes. In the evening Koreans might also take a walk to enjoy the harvest moon shining in the sky.

I think it's a nice holiday to have. It's essentially a day to honor deceased family members, and to celebrate the harvest in one holiday. Also, It's a time for overworked Koreans to take a break from their busy lives and see their families, as well as old friends. The bottom line is that this holiday is about family; living and dead. After they pay their respects, Koreans will have the next day off too. Which is splendid, because it gives them a little extra time to enjoy being together with their families before they fight the traffic back to their residential town.

I am trying to recall if we have any similar holiday in America, and I must admit, I am drawing a blank. We honor our country, God, fathers, mothers, soldiers, teachers, civil rights leaders, presidents, etc, but do Americans have a holiday to honor our families, the people that biologically made us? It would be nice to have one of these days too. Not to get too sidetracked, but I think we can have our own little Chuseok in America too, and it might even go over well.

One thing that I would enjoy at least would be the obvious; having a Monday off work. Who doesn't appreciate a work-less Monday? Doesn't everyone want another day where one isn't required to be someplace at a specific time, or have to face up to consequences. Who wouldn't like another Monday where you didn't need to worry about shaving and wearing a wrinkled shirt? Who wouldn't mind seeing a friend or family member over a long lunch, instead of looking at your watch while inhaling an Arby's Chicken Sandwich before getting back to the office? Regardless, I will tell you what I think. Time might be money, but time spent with friends and family is like gold, and we all could use a little time for that.

Koreans do Chicken Better

2008-09-07T03:04:00.001-07:00

If you are an American, then of course you are aware that KFC says they do chicken right. Their crispy, greasy chicken has even exported itself to various other parts of the world as well. At least we know they do capitalism right. These days Colonel Sanders, has become a ubiquitous fast food symbol internationally. When I lived in the Czech Republic, the fast food franchise was cleaning up by opening up a group of restaurants along metro stops in Prague. A couple years later, when I came to Korea I noticed KFC is even making dents in larger cities like Seoul and Gwangju. Nowadays, in my opinion it's a pity. Despite the fact that I can occasionally grab a chicken sandwich(which means a meal with actual bread,) I have to say KFC pales in comparison to the plethora of chicken establishments that exist in every town in South Korea.

It might not sound too appealing to hear that Korea has a lot of chicken restaurants. I understand chicken isn't that important. It isn't always healthy either. In these health conscious, calorie counting times, chicken might not be the most attractive thing to write about. What is interesting for me though, is that one king-size box of chicken in Korea at fourteen dollars can stuff two extremely hungry people beyond capacity. It gets even better too. You can order fried, grilled, boneless, wings, legs, or thighs. In addition, you get a selection of delicious sauces, that KFC will never match. It's making me hungry already.

After you get your chicken, you will also notice that you will get a nice selection of side dishes too; usually a few radishes, and if you're lucky ice-cream, or a bottle of Pepsi. It's always nice to receive something extra for free. If you order chicken, like most things you order in Korea, there will always be something extra. My three favorite establishments are Gupne Chicken, NE Ne(which means YES YES,) Chicken, and Mexican chicken. Gupne specializes in grilled chicken, and they always give you free Pepsi. NE NE gives you ice-cream, and a huge selection of sauces, and finally Mexican Chicken will test your spice tolerance.

To test the popularity of chicken with Koreans, I have asked many of my students which they prefer; chicken, or pizza. What high school student doesn't like pizza? I can tell you all of my students will happily devour pizza. They have no problem eating cheesy crust slices at Pizza Hut or Mr. Pizza. However, if they have to choose, they wouldn't even think twice of ordering chicken. I think they unanimously chose chicken. For your information, I have over a six hundred students. That's a lot of chicken.

We all know it isn't healthy. Vegetarians aside (sorry if I offend any of you,) who doesn't like eating chicken? I guess a little is okay, right? The problem with me though, is that I have my top three chicken restaurant numbers saved in my phone. Each place has caller Id too, so they know where I live and where to deliver. So my situation can be dangerous. It's not just me though, because it's no secret that Koreans do pretty decent chicken.

The Great Outdoors

2008-08-31T04:14:00.000-07:00

I think I first heard the term 'Africa Hot,' from a family member when I was a child. It was during one of those family vacations in the mountains where everyone on the family tree participates. Therefore my memory is fuzzy as to which relative had actually used the term 'Africa Hot' in my presence. Regardless, I later learned that the expression was from the 1988 film Biloxi Blues, which was originally a play written by Neil Simon. At the time I thought the 'Africa hot' I was experiencing as a child was like real Africa heat. I have never been to Africa either, so I logically thought at that time that it couldn't get any hotter. Despite this, the 'Africa' like temperatures in California only range between twenty-eight and thirty-five Celsius, which of course is only 'California mountain hot.' Heat can be a relative term. For humans, depending on where they live, the heat can be more tolerable, if they are used to warmer temperatures. I am sure Africans wouldn't complain about the Californian mountain air. Conversely I think an Irish summer tourist in California would have a lot to say about the heat.

These days I'm living in Asia; more specifically South Korea. I still haven't set foot on African Soil, but one day I will. Until I do though, I must say that I hadn't experienced true hot until I came here. After a short pleasant spring June comes, and brings rain with it. Actually it rains a lot, and hard. Going umbrella less out doors isn't an option. The rain doesn't come in drops, it comes in lakes. What's even worse than that is the temperatures range from 25 to 30, so it is quite humid all the time. Later, once the end of July rolls around things start to dry out. The rain disappears, and then the real heat takes the place of the torrential rain. The temperatures are at least 3o degrees, and linger day and night. It gets so hot that an air conditioner is almost a necessity. I am too cheap to buy one though, so I suffer. The fan only helps if it's turned up to '11' , and only during the wee hours of the morning, where there is a helpful soft breeze blowing through my open windows. What's even worse is that the water from all of the rain is constantly evaporating from the rainy season, so the simple act of even venturing outside can easily cover one heavily with sweat. The life saver for me were the coffee houses, and cinemas in Suncheon that have an unlimited supply of A/C. Koreans like to strut their A/C power, which isn't exactly a bad thing in July and August.

Anyway, my reasons for ranting about hot weather is that I've just noticed that tomorrow is September the first. All of my windows are still open for twenty four hours a day, and I still can only manage dressing in shorts and t-shirts, but I actually don't need my fan to cool me at night anymore. I can slowly notice the change in temperature, which is giving me a notion that it will all be over soon, and we can all resume normal lives outdoors again. Which is good, because the fall is a great time to be outdoors, and moreover, what I really want to share with you is that another great thing about living in Korea in the fall is the miles upon miles of mountains to climb and explore.

In fact, according to the Lonely Planet guide, Korea is covered by seventy-percent mountains. Many nations have a specific region that has accessible hiking trails, but in Korea, those trails are everywhere. Even those living in busy Seoul are able to quickly access local peaks. Despite the fact that Korean mountains are not that high(they typically range between 1200 and 1500 meters high,) they just seem to cover just about every province of this nation. *Halasan on Jeju-Do is the highest peak reaching 1950 meters, but is just a mere fraction of mountain space that surrounds South Korea. In terms of elevation, South Korea isn't Tibet- Tibet's average elevation is actually over 4,000 meters. So South Korea can't rightfully be called the Switzerland of Asia. It would however be more fitting to imagine Korea as The Appalations of Asia, with trails sprawling all over the rolling hills and modest peaks, from downtown Seoul to remote areas on Jeju-do.

In Suncheon where I reside, I can literally walk out my door, go down the elevator, cross a parking lot, and take a quick hike past a mountain temple, and continue up, and up, and walk for miles and miles, until I get tired too tired out to continue. The trail head is very close, which makes it a perfect place for an evening sunset climb, or morning pre-work, workout. The only problem of course is the intolerable summer heat. The only occasions I attempt to climb anything is after six in the evening, while I am armed with a large, quite nippy, bottle of water. Additionally, I am also only able to do this mind you, because the mountain is quite shaded until it peaks out.

It's such a nice thing, that I could literally write countless, innumerable, pages giving tribute to the mountains in South Korea. The problem is though, I am going hiking in the morning, so I need my beauty sleep. So in conclusion, I just want to express my gratitude to the month of September for showing its more inviting face. For doing this, I can attest, that I will be out and about climbing mountains here and there, and enjoying the outdoors, like any normal, healthy, human like myself rightfully should. Korea is quite a unique country for its beautiful landscape, and scenery. Because of this, it would be a waste not to experience it. So for a while, Africa is on hold.

*Taken From Lonely Planet Korea-page 66, 2004 ed.

An Alternative Way to Spend a Weekend

2008-08-10T23:28:00.000-07:00

Once upon a time, I was younger. Being young was a memorable part of my life too. By the way, when the word memory comes up I usually become a little sentimental, but today I am going to keep the overly sentimental narrative to myself. Instead, in the spirit of relaxing summer vacations, I think it is fitting that I expound on some of the more trivial experiences I had in those 'younger' days. Today I will tell you about how I spent my summer vacations. More specifically, I want talk about rock n' roll.

I like rock music a lot. I've attended concerts in clubs, restaurants, houses, stadiums, arenas, even bookstores. I've seen guitars smashed, pics thrown, mosh pits, fights between bands and audience members, and most other things associated with with rock music gatherings. I've staged dived, crowd surfed, punk jumped, and banged my head enough that it will likely cause brain damage during my golden years. I was (and still am by some degree,) by definition a great enthusiast. If there was a band on a bill, I would be there. Sometimes it was even for my own band. I've even played at places where we were strictly not allowed, and still managed to play a few paltry tunes. Moreover, what I really got a kick out doing was going to rock festivals. I haven't been to that many, but I can recall the several big all day rock shows I was fortunate enough to attend.

My first rock festival was an informal event with 70,000 people called 'Day on the Green. I was seventeen. Metallica, Guns and Roses, and rapper Ice-T's band Body Count played there. The annual concert was notorious for it's giant mosh pits, however, in addition to the mosh pits, the year I went became a night full of heavy metal and grass throwing. Another great festival I went to was the 'Van's Warped Tour.' That was the gigantic California punk rock tour, that has become famous everywhere. I went to the second one ever held in San Francisco. The tickets only cost twenty bucks, but what I also remember as is typical with most large American gatherings is the absurd concession prices. For example, a bottle of water was three dollars.

Anyway, when I was young, I loved partaking in rock n' roll adventures. I am still not old, and I am still able to rock out, but I feel that I am evolving in a way that makes it more manageable to say goodbye to rock. Living in Korea has made that transition easier. There aren't many big rock festivals that pass through this small crowded peninsula. Despite this, there is still one. And yes, for old times sake; I went. It's called the Pentaport Rock Festival. It's in Incheon, which is near Seoul. It lasts for three days during the middle of July. If you got a extra couple hundred dollars you can go too.

Yes, I said a couple hundred dollars. It's expensive, isn't it? The thing is, if you went to a three day festival in the states you would probably pay the same. In addition, I also believe that once inside, you would pay an exorbitant fee for any food or service you needed. The three day ticket also includes free camping. American venues can be quite a rip-off. In Korea, the prices stayed the same. A bottle of water was a dollar, a beer was three dollars, dinner for two, which was delicious, was about ten, and t-shirts and souvenirs were the same prices you would pay at any other shop in town. Anyway, I bought a one day ticket for a more 'modest' price of eighty dollars. Indeed, it was still expensive to enter, but once inside I didn't have that trapped feeling that most large venue events have in America. So the ticket prices made a dent in the wallet, but once inside I was able to relax.

Once inside, I noticed a different atmosphere than what I am accustomed to here. I felt like I actually was younger again among other young rockers who have a lot to prove to the world. South Korea at times can feel a bit formal, and serious, but all of that disappeared the second I walked inside. There were not suits and ties, just young people walking around with either sandals or big rubber boots. The venue was a giant mud covered field near the sea, and it had rained the night before, so the ground had the same sloshiness as the mud festival. Wha was interensting though was, the tickets were on the more expensive side, and the ground was muddy, so I was able to enjoy the fact that one could walk freely to the stage and manage to find a good spot to watch and enjoy the bands.

The first band that I saw were Aussie group The Vines. Imagine Nirvana playing shorter, more polished songs. They weren't the headliners, but they played quite well for one of those 'middle of the afternoon,' bands. After that my girlfriend and I ate some ribs, then we went to see the next band The Gossip. They were quite unique. Imagine a larger version of Stevie Nicks, mixed with a bit of Aretha Franklin. That was their lead singer. I have to say, that she tore it up. The band was OK, but she really energized the crowd with her vocals and on stage personae. She even knew how to talk to Koreans, which might sound strange, but after living here, I've noticed that you can really impress the locals here if you have the right manners. It's not hard either. It just shows you that a little kindness goes a long way, and that's true here.

Anyway, the band I paid so much money to see were the headliners from Scotland; Travis. They were pretty darn good too. They weren't the best band I had ever seen, but they were pretty impressive. They have quite a large catalogue of songs, and were able to play a good deal of them in one evening. They finished the show with an acoustic version of 'flowers in the window.' It was a nice way to wind down from the day. After the last chord was played, we clapped for a few seconds then pushed our way through the mud to the exit and went to sleep. As I'm just not as young as I used to be. However, I'm still not that old. So if you aren't so old, and if you are in the ROK, I recommend making a trip to the Pentaport Rock Festival.

A Visit to the Neighbors

2008-07-28T23:50:00.000-07:00

When I was seventeen I assumed I lived in the greatest part on Earth. Now, ironically 15 years later I still believe that is true. I can affirm that the San Francisco Bay Area is the most awesome place on this small planet. However, when I was a young naive lad I had never been to another country, and I was quite ignorant in believing that it wasn't necessary to go anywhere else. Like a typical Californian youth, I felt like all one needed in life was a job that provided the income for unlimited Taco Bell, convenience store stops, a Blcokbuster Card, a guitar, and a car to provide an occasional weekend beach visit. Yes, when I was young I was at the center of the world in northern California. The Bay Area for many of us was, is, and will always be 'hella cool.' It wasn't until a year later when I graduated high school that I realistically gave any thought to seeing another country. Like many young people who live in the land of a 21 year old minimum drinking age, we discover a place south of our tightly controlled border as a respite for tequila popping and cheap burrito binging. I was one of those creatures who, at the ripe young age of 18 discovered Mexico as a place for a young man to partake in such enterprises.

So in the summer in 1994 I visited our neighbors in Mexico. I came, drank, ate, and left with the experience that there are other places out there. When I came home, the visit to Mexico left me with an impression that there was so much more to see in the world. Actually, it had quite a huge impression on me, since I've spent most of the last eight years living in foreign countries. Now looking back at my life it seems mind boggling how many places I've seen; and to think it all started with a visit to the neighbors, where I discovered that foreign countries have something different, unique and interesting to offer.

As this blog is about life in Korea, I told myself I wouldn't write about other countries. Despite this, I will make an exception this week. The reason being is that I have just returned from a visit to Korea's Neighbors, Japan. Since Korea is Japan's neighbor I think it is fitting that I can state that another great thing about living in Korea in fact is its' proximity to Japan. Since many millions of humans have visited Japan, I won't go into too many details about things to see or do there. I will just tell you that if you haven't been, then you are simply missing out.

If you are an American and if you have been to Mexico, you will see that there is a huge difference between the two lands. I can attest that despite the relative close geographical distance both countries are both appealing, and compelling in a variety of their own separate ways. For example in America, everything is readily available. There is nothing like American convenience. Whereas in Mexico, things tend to move at their own pace-and if there is a soccer match on, then the pace becomes immeasurable. So for us living in Korea, Japan is an amazingly enchanting country to visit, which has many differences to life in Korea. Many people living in Korea seem to think that there aren't many differences between the two countries so they ignore Japan come vacation time and travel to more 'exotic' places like Thailand, or The Philippines. There are indeed differences.

The Koreans like to eat really spicy ramen soup, but if you like cheap sushi, and salty ramen visit Japan. In Korea you can learn taekwondo, but if you want to see a great baseball game, come to Japan. If you want to be left alone when you travel, come to Japan. Although, many of us know that if you want to be greeted by an innumerable amount of adorable children, come to Korea. The kids like to greet foreigners here, so if you are in Korea for a short stay, it's a wonderful experience. In Japan, you won't feel like an honored guest or anything, but if you like anonymity, then it's a good break from life in Korea. Additionally if you like to improve your language skills, then Korea is a better place to carry a phrasebook. Less people use English in Korea-with the exception of Seoul, where English is widely used in tourist areas. In Japan however, you can speak English, because they seem to be more used to foreign visitors. These are just a small array of examples about the diversity between two geographically close, but distinctly different nations.

So if you are in Korea, and if you do decide to visit Japan, then congratulations! Getting there is easy too. My illustrious, beautiful, travel agent/girlfriend casually arranged plane tickets from Seoul to Nagoya in Japan for 370 dollars return. It's a pretty good deal. The flight time is about two hours, and during that time, you actually get a pretty tasty lunch, with unlimited drinks to boot! Once safely on the ground in Nagoya, you can just jump on an express train for downtown for about 8 dollars. From there, you can catch a bullet train to anywhere in the country you desire. In Japan, bullet means what it means-bullet. We traveled 140 kilometers to Kyoto, in the time it takes for me to drink a half a cup of coffee; about 35 minutes.

You can also take a boat to Japan from Korea. This is what most people do. There is a hydro foil service from Pusan to Fukuoka. This Journey is about three hours and cost around 270 dollars return. I've heard it's a good service, but you need to book in advance, As many people seem to prefer the boat to the plane, because of it's cheaper rates. I get sea sick, and I am used to sitting in uncomfortable economy seats on planes, and eating single serving meals while wearing a tight seat belt. It's a miserable experience, but it's what I am accustomed to, so I'll stick to the proverbial friendly skies.

Traveling can be a life changing, rewarding experience, which money nor fame can give. Since I have no money, and I am far from famous-except at my school, I can say visiting different foreign countries at least give me a great deal of satisfaction, and a little understanding about the world we live in. Despite this notion of going to far away foreign lands bringing enchantment, it's interesting how unique the places that are geographically close to us also seem to be. If you go from California to Tijuana the food gets decidedly spicier, but if you go from Seoul to Tokyo you might look into your ramen and ask, what happened to the spice?

A Note to My Readers, AKA a Note to Myself

2008-07-16T05:39:00.000-07:00

Dear readers,
This note is to inform my patient, consistent 'readers'-actually me, (since I am the primary reader of this blog,) that I will be taking leave from my self appointed post as a blogger of interesting things in the land of Kimchi between the week of the nineteenth to the twenty-sixth. As I will be vacationing in Japan, I will be unable to utilize my time to write anything Korea related. I know how this must come as a great shock to the scores of my global followers that I would actually leave this great nation to partake in sightseeing adventures somewhere else. Despite this, please be confident that I will be back shortly and I will carry on with this historic task of sharing things about life here with you-or to myself.

If you aren't me reading this, then congratulations! You are one of the few. If you are still reading on, then thank you again. If you are now thinking what a terrible narcissist the author is, then you might be right, but bear in mind that I love what I am doing. There are many things that give great pleasure to people, and putting words together to create sentences is one of those things that strangely makes me content. I have played guitar for the last twelve years; and I thought it was something that would give me satisfaction, but I always felt like I was always striving to achieve something. There was never an end. I always felt like I was trying to climb a mountain. If you are always climbing the mountain it kinda sucks the joy out of the whole trip. Anyway, these days guitar is still a great hobby, but with writing, I find it's something I just enjoy doing. It's an enjoyment where once I stop, I find it easy to lose track of time. It's gotten to the point where I am happy wasting away a Friday night simply rambling in my diary about how great Korea is because there are Styrofoam sidewalks. So it's because of this that I am informing my ardent blog readers; but most likely myself. That as kimchi is red, I will undoubtedly will return next week. This is what I like.

A Dirty Weekend, But Somebody's Gotta Do It!

2008-07-11T04:25:00.000-07:00

It's a Friday evening in the middle of July in Suncheon. The weekend has commenced. Since it's the warm time of the year, life has become a twenty-four hour T-shirt and Sandal affair. I love this time. I despise hiding in my flop-house apartment while watching the harsh, wretched, winters. Life for me is waiting in the dugout for the spring and summer seasons. After August, I feel like the season is over and I head back to the bench to wait for spring training. Sorry for the baseball metaphor, but I'm an American and a baseball person to boot. Speaking about being an American, I notice that all of the Americans on this glorious July evening have disappeared. It's summer and I feel like the only foreign teacher in town. No one stays indoors around here. They must be somewhere, So where are my friends? After a few minutes of contemplating this little glitch in the Suncheon social scene, because sometimes my brain takes time to make realizations, and after a short lived period of intense concentration, I finally recall that this weekend is the Boryeong Mud Festival. Of Course! That's where everyone has gone. It's one of the biggest summer events for foreigners and Koreans in South Korea, and since I'm going to spend all of my money in Japan next week watching-yes; Baseball. I'm the only foreign teacher in this town not attending the weekend event.

So everyone else will be doing exactly what the name Mud Festival might suggest; playing like a child in the mud. I am here alone this weekend, but since I attended last year, I think I am qualified to share a few experiences with you. Since 1998, foreigners and Koreans alike congregate to a massive beach in the town of Boryeong and completely cover themselves in mud for a few days, then hose off and call it a weekend. The beach is about 2 kilometres long, and along that beach there is a plethora of themed tents each specializing in some sort of mud shenanigans. For example, there is a mud prison where you can submit yourself to a short period behind bars, while you wade in a pool of slushy mud. If that's not for you there is the giant mud wrestling pool, where the US GI's tend to end up and partake in throwing each other around. They provide a big part of the entertainment, as they can really throw each other. There are also hundreds of Koreans taking photos, since the most prized photos are always highlighted to advertise the following year's festival. So watch out if you go because you will feel like a mud caked celebrity. The highlight for me actually is the where you get painted in an assortment colors of mud. There a several tents scattered about that will just paint you head to toe in various colors, and will also draw interesting designs on you with a selection of brushes. I think I ended up looking like a giant, hairy, smurf with brown mud cracked feet. I would look strange anywhere else, but in Boryeong it's business as usual. It's kind of an enchanting experience to be covered in mud among thousands of others.

The town of Boryeong has a unique overabundance of mud. It was also an unrivaled idea that gave them this strangely popular festival. Instead of using mud for agriculture, the town decided to try to use it to lure the tourist here. There is even a centrally located mud museum, and an interesting gift shop where you can buy actual mud soap. Talk about irony. So the idea of mud tourism has worked here. Since 1998 the Mud Fest has become one of the most popular festivals in South Korea. This is a country that isn't in need of festivals either. To name a few, there is the Buddha Street Parade in Seoul, The Jinju Lantern Festival, and the Pentaport Rock Festival in Incheon, which the bands Travis and Underworld will headline this year's bill. In just over ten years of existence, the Mud Festival is something that has become a cultural phenomenon, and a playground for young and old. That's right the kids come too.

It's not just foreigners and, Korean college photographers who partake, but Korean families come out in huge numbers to experience the muddiness. I really like this bonding between Koreans and foreigners. During my sojourn here, I sometimes feel like I haven't had many opportunities to mix with Koreans. Despite my best efforts to be a good diplomat I feel like foreigners and Koreans keep sort of a safe distance between each other. Maybe we are all just too different and it's easier to maintain our own singularity. We like to stay on our own islands. I can live with this, but I was delighted to see that this doesn't really exist at the mud festival. It's rare to see people interacting as one. I guess everyone is essentially the same at the Mud Fest because at the end of the day, everyone is covered from head to foot in brown, crackly mud.

So after everyone cakes themselves with mud, and a well deserved shower, most people regroup for the evening program, which includes; a rock concert, fireworks, and food and drink on the beach. After watching a few cover bands on the main stage, I floated over to the quieter side of the beach with some friends and smuggled a few cans of Hite and some bottle rockets and enjoyed the clear summer evening watching the fireworks pop over my head as the mosquitoes gnawed at my freshly showered legs. It was a lasting, captivating experience. So it's a pity that I'm holed up in Suncheon for the 2008 festival, but that's life. Sometimes you have to give up something to get something better in return. I am looking forward to seeing baseball in Japan though, and I think that can be another unique experience, which will be worth writing about. So, before I get back to my quiet weekend, I leave you with this advice. If you are thinking about coming to the Mud Festival, bring a change of clothes, and book a comfortable room early. It's the place to be in the middle of July.

A Happy Head

2008-07-02T16:51:00.001-07:00

In Suncheon, the town where I hang my hat these days, there is a monstrous chain store called Home Plus. In Home plus you can buy almost anything you need for your home and your kitchen-plus! (sorry I had to say it.) Anyway, it's a convenient place to shop. As a matter of fact, I bought a new Ipod Nano to replace the one I had washed yesterday, then I immediately retreated to the lower level to purchase my weekly groceries. Just like that, talk about accessibility! Because of this handy novelty most foreigners tend to congregate here on a daily basis. If you ask me, if you took the top five places where you would find a non-Korean face in Suncheon; Home Plus would rank in the top 3. The other two would be in the Shidae Apartment elevator, because that's where all of us wonderful English Teachers reside; the apartment, not the elevator, and probably Elvis bar, which is a little bar which has an overabundance of vinyl albums and whose owner is patently called Elvis. What is also attractive to foreigners at Home Plus is the top floor because it has a food court style restaurant that has enormous portions of food for as little as four dollars a meal, but what is curiously appealing is something that lies right besides the food court. There you will find a relatively affordable hair dresser that gives you the greatest head massages for no charge. If you get your hair cut there, you will also be treated to a complimentary double wash and dry, with a no -nonsense, intense scalp massage.

If you are foreigner in Korea, you won't have to make any appointments. Just walk in, and they will see you. Since you are are a visitor to Korea, they will usually try to expedite your visit. Koreans want to give their nation a hospitable face regarding customer service with foreigners. As a bonus If you do have to wait they will graciously offer you some coffee to keep you awake for the entire five minutes you might actually have to sit there unattended. See they will go out of their way to get you a seat with a hair-stylist who will consequently try to speak a little English-but you shouldn't expect much. Their English isn't great, and their hair cutting English is lacking a vocabulary bank. They will mostly just tell you how handsome you are. Koreans like to pay compliments. Even to less hairy folks like me. At the least there will be hundreds of magazine photos to choose from to match the hair style you want. My Korean is non-existent and I usually manage by choosing a picture of David Beckham or someone much cooler and hipper than me and hope that they can mysteriously create the same

Once you are in a chair, you will be asked again what you want them to do with your hair. Just show them Beckahm! Then you will be whisked away to the sink by a stylist in training; usually a girl just out of high school, where she will begin phase one of your hair transformation. Then after a quick shampoo and dry, you get led back to your 'head,' hair cutter, who works on your hair with a passion that I really don't understand, but I just let them work away, and hope that they remember the picture revealed to them. As he cuts, there is another assistant who stands there with a giant sponge and removes the little hairy bits that tend to scratch a little. So if you're counting, that's a total of three people working on your hair. I think there are less people assigned to surgically remove a brain tumor. Once the hair is cut, and it's closely matching the photo, although most likely much shorter than you had anticipated, then it's time to hit the sink again.

This is the part where the girl massages your scalp-after another shampoo and towel dry of course. It's isn't just tender Korean hand touches poking at little points of your head, but it's an intense, brain tingling, stress relieving affair, that leaves you refreshed till dinnertime. Your cranium feels like it's being kneaded like pizza dough, but in the end it feels so delightful. So after your deep brain press, you just hop back in the chair, and girl assistant number two turns on a hair dryer and dries the little parts girl number one missed. Then the head cutter instructs girl number two where to apply the gel to make your hair look stylish.

You then walk to the counter and pay your 11,000 won tab. By the way that's like 11 dollars. I don't have to tell you how much more a cut of this opulence would be in America. The cheapest place in my little home town charges 14 dollars, and that's by moaning, hungover, miserable ladies who just chop your hair with noisy electronic clippers for fifteen minutes and expect a tip in the end. In Korea, you never have to tip-anywhere! If you try, the Korean will just give you your money back informing you that you had paid too much. After paying-who is another lady by the way, you will then be thanked greatly by receiving many countless bows from all three ladies, then you will escorted to the main door by the head stylist who will bid you a safe journey home. Then you will receive one final courteous bow, and you'll walk out with a smile, much shorter hair, and a relaxed scalp.

I Get a Kick Outta' Taekwondo

2008-06-27T21:18:00.001-07:00

Looking back at my life, I realize that in most of the situations I've experienced which involved someone having to stand up for him or her self, I was always the one either hiding behind the curtains hoping no one comes over and punches me in the gut, or the guy trying to invent something fast in order to change the subject to avoid all confrontation all together. I was by nature a wimp and a coward. I am not a physically big person, therefore I learned to be quite astute for not getting into fights. Of course violence is stupid, but even in non-violent situations I used to also avoid any form of verbal confrontation like it were a visit to the dentist to have some wisdom teeth removed. To say I lacked confidence is to say that ice freezes. You needn't be a psychoanalyst to conclude that I was afraid to speak my mind. I am an American and a Californian to boot. Therefore, I have an overabundance of free speech which I am blessed with. So why did I always keep things to myself? I didn't want to be the coward.

That all changed two years ago. After getting chased out of a bus stop like a squeaking little mouse by a crazy guy twice my size, and nearly getting attacked by two crack heads in a Berkley parking garage made me realize that you can't always hide behind the curtains. The crack head incident came just about a month before I had decided to come to Korea. After this episode I also knew that I had to do something to improve my confidence. Also, being from the San Francisco Bay Area, one needs to realize that sometimes trouble does crawl into your personal space. Sometimes it's a situation that lingers like a cockroach which becomes difficult get rid of. So if you have an opportunity to learn how to defend yourself a bit, why not take that chance up?

So I swore to myself that once in Korea I would come here to learn their national sport taekwondo. When I started it was quite an intimidating experience. I am quite naturally clumsy and inept at physical movement. Moreover, the students in the group at the time were all getting ready for their black belt test. So you can imagine how a maladroit like me would feel at the time. I didn't know a roundhouse from a front kick, or a middle block from a bow. I can't even remember if was able to touch my toes at the time. What I do remember however, Is fiasco after fiasco during every lesson. If I tried to kick a roundhouse, I failed. If I attempted to do a simple form, it would be filled with critique. It was ironic, but the first year of my attempt to improve my self-confidence and self defense abilities were filled with hopelessness. I wouldn't have made it if my instructors and fellow learners weren't so supportive and patient with my shortcomings. Despite my failed attempts, over months and months of attending lessons, my abilities strangely started to take on a new form. The form of accuracy started to blossom. I started to see that a little patience goes a long way. Trust me. I nearly lost it countless times. Now, in spite of nearly quitting for good, I am still keeping at it. Also, I feel a hundred times more confident socially too. Now I sense that I have inherited that empowering feeling characters in the movie Network realized, when they got on their rooftops and screamed, 'I'm mad as hell, and I'm not going to take it no more!' Watch out world, cause I am doing the same.

Currently, I am a red belt. I am not amazing, but I am almost a brown belt , and with a little more effort, I'll be a black belt in a few months. I now have the mysterious ability to kick a round house, ( if I stretch for 15 minutes,) and my hands are finally able to manage a brief contact with my toes. I am also a hundred times more confident. So Bay Area residents take note, because in a few months I'll even know a side kick. I must take a moment realize that I consider myself quite lucky to come here as a foreigner to experience this. Not everyone has the fortunate breaks I get. It's a very interesting cultural experience too. I study with foreigners and Koreans. I have a foreign teacher, and a Korean teacher who is able to put me through hell in a record time of 45 minutes; you've never seen stretching until you've come here.

If you are curious about learning more, then just come to Korea. You wouldn't have to walk more than a hundred meters. taekwondo dojans are everywhere. The price is a steal too. A month will typically cost you between sixty and one hundred dollars. I don't even want to think what pseudo grandmasters are asking for back in Northern California. So if you do decide to settle here for a while, don't tell me there is nothing to do. I am warning you. I'll just put on my headphones, because there is always a taekwondo school and if they welcome me, they will welcome anybody.

From A to B in Comfort

2008-06-19T17:17:00.000-07:00

Today is Friday, so I am naturally chipper. To me-like many of us, Friday symbolizes cheerfulness; unlike the word Monday which sadly brings expressions to my mind like; misery, suffering, and 'I'm too sick to come in to work.' Despite my natural psychological reaction to Fridays, I have to say I am especially excited this day because I get to escape from Suncheon to visit my girlfriend in Seoul. She's amazing! She's attractive and has a special 'joie de vivre,' which I seldom have. So it's always wonderful to see her on the weekends, and moreover after the weekend, because it's gratifying to have someone to whine to on Mondays during my overly hectic workday. In addition to being happy about seeing my girl, I am also looking forward to the journey. I fully understand it might sound odd to read about someone being excited about traveling 400 kilometers. It might also come as a bigger shock to you to hear that this journey I am eager to embark on is on a bus. For many Americans the thought of riding a bus for four hours would be on the top of a very long list of things to avoid. Other things on that list would notably be drowning, getting attacked by a bear, and of course ordering a sandwich in San Francisco. Buses are typically hellish. They are an unfortunate part of life in America. So why am I charged to jump on one? Simply because the Express Buses in Korea are amazing for their comfort and affordability.

For around 25 dollars you can take an express bus to Seoul, which all come with reclining, padded, and really wide, spaced seats with comfy armrests. If you are tired, you will sleep like a baby too. In addition all the buses are designed with three seats per aisle; unlike most buses which install four seats per aisle. One side will have two seats, but I always try to reserve my ticket early so I get a solo seat on the opposite side. That way I can stretch my feet lazily across the aisle, turn on my trademark mp3 player and drift of into a pleasant Friday afternoon nap, which will have me rested for a night out among the buzzing Seoul folks.

The journey takes about four hours, but with traffic it can take up to five. Because of the slightly long journey the bus will always stop after about two hours for a quick rest stop. I usually take this as my cue to get out and head to the mini stop and grab some water and a twix bar. It's easy to do so because the rest stops in Korea are all laid out the same, which is convenient for me because I am terrible at navigating myself around places. For example, I am always walking on the wrong floor of my school where I teach, so when exiting the bus I also have to make a mental note to look at the licence number of my bus. This is because so many other express buses are stopping for breaks. Also, most Korean buses look so darn similar, so it's easy for an absentminded 'waygook,' like myself to get lost. The problem being is that the bus drivers are punctual about their departure times and they might leave you in the dust if yo get lost between the bathroom and your bus. So if you're traveling by bus here, take the time to remember your bus- at the least take a moment to recogonize your driver.

Traveling by bus in Korea is a blessing that is seldom overlooked by many people who have had the unfortunate opportunity to crawl slowly around America by the extremely unpopular Greyhound. What is ironic is you even pay more in the states to take a bus. A three hour journey by Greyhound can cost up to 60 dollars, and will get you only a five minute rest stop. In addition, Greyhound is completely lacking in any form of comfort which we are so endowed with in Korea. What a scam! So come live in Suncheon and get a girlfriend in Seoul. That way you can travel in comfort weekly.

A Satisfied Customer

2008-06-05T23:03:00.000-07:00

Today is a public holiday. Because of this, I don't have to teach and instead I can spend my time blissfully writing away about my life here in Korea. Life is always good when I have a day off. As life is good today, and since I am in such high spirits, I feel obliged to tell you about some of the things that I like about life in Korea. There are actually many things about the land of Kimchi that I do adore, and kimchi is ironically one of those things. Since there are many positive things, I will share only one with you today. Hence, I will have many nice things to say later, so you can see that there are many positive experiences to have in this otherwise strange place. So with out further delay, it's time to spread the good news.

As I sit here writing on my dependable IBM Think Pad at Tom N' Tom's Coffee in Suncheon , I have to take a break to admire how attractive my latte looks. To the palate it's just an ordinary latte. The taste is average at best, but Koreans aren't famous for the taste of their coffee. Despite the normal taste, it looks much nicer than any drink you would receive from a barista from any of a plethora of coffee establishments in California. The Koreans are the masters of latte foam art. I am actually dumbfounded by how they do it. They won't just make a latte with foam on top; they keep going. When they are finished they are able to maneuver the foam and coffee together in such a way that they can draw pictures on the top of the foam in your latte. Today I have two hearts, which is quite admirable. A little girly for me, but it's what the girls like to make; it's as they would say 'cute.' Although It isn't the best I've seen, it's quite acceptable. Last week I had a latte and the top of the foam had a leaf designed on it. Other impressive works of latte art included a smiley face, and on another occasion I had a very fashionable checkerboard type design. This got me thinking. Would I get this kind of considerate, personalized service back home? Fat chance! In South Korea the host will always try to make you the customer feel important. Sometimes they go through more lengths to make you the customer-who is still a total stranger happy, then I would go through for my own friends. So, as I promised with enthusiasm last week to write a series of blogs about daily life in Korea I like, I think that a good start to that series would be to illustrate the impeccable customer service in Korea.

If you not a coffee person, you by any means will not be alienated. There are countless ways to experience the feeling of being a well-treated guest. For example, if you are at least a pizza person, and if you can manage to come down to Domino's Pizza, or Mr. Pizza downtown, you will be given your pizza as it were a present. They don't just sling a box across the counter and say 'here you are buddy,' as someone in New York would, but they will actually give you a polite bow and carefully hand you a box with a neatly wrapped red bow around it. It actually takes longer to open the box when you get home, but it just makes it more exciting for me. It is in fact like opening a Christmas present. Every day is Christmas here if you like pizza, and they do the same with boxes of chicken too if that's your forte.

So as it stands if you like to be treated well while you order coffee or pizza, then you will be hard up for disappointment. Although the more ubiquitous thing about customer service in this proud nation becomes more transparent when you go to a restaurant. The servers don't really seem that friendly, but you will usually be given upon arrival a couple of side dishes complimented with a pitcher of water. In Korea it's all about the side dishes. Even if you go to the cheapest establishment and buy only a simple rice roll, you will at least get some kimchi and yellow radish-granted it's nothing special if you've lived here a while, but it's nice to realize that it's actually not costing you anything. Although if you are only buying a rice roll, then you have to help yourself to the water. However, If you go a nicer restaurant, the side dishes will be a hundred times better, and you will have so many to chose from that there will be no room left on the table to eat. I usually eat one side dish completely and then use that empty plate to eat my main meal. Space is a scarcity on a table with so many Korean sides. Usually you will get so many that you won't eat at least quarter of them. It gets even better too. Once you finish one plate, and usually no matter how tasty or difficult that dish is to make, you can ask for more of the dish and they will dutifully replenish your empty plate. Weather it's some fish, tofu, vegetable, or in my experience I know a place that made something like an omelette pancake from scratch, which I'll usually request a pancake refill like 3 times, and in every instance it was brought with a cheerful smile.

In light of what was just said, there are many more places to go here where you will feel like you are the most important person in the room. Even when you leave the room and jump in a taxi on your way home you might still be treated like an honored guest. In some instances the taxi driver will offer you gum or candy while he halfheartedly tries to understand your broken Korean. Koreans like to give you free snacks. Even if you are a customer standing in line in a bank or post office you might get you free a yogurt, rice cake, or a cold drink in the summer. It's difficult to live here and not feel special. Living in Korea can be a bewitching experience. Why do I need to bother look in the mirror everyday and tell myself that I'm special? All I need to do is just walk into a cafe and stare in awe at my attractive latte and feel like the most special guy in town.

A Positive Outlook

2008-06-01T05:49:00.000-07:00

For many of us life is challenging. There are times when we can not simply just sit back passively and permit life to carry us through like we are children on our father's shoulders riding piggy back through the park. Sometimes life isn't a walk in the park. I have been exhausted lately and have that familiar disconcerting notion most people have after two years in my present situation. Teaching English in Korea at a public school will do that to you. Despite what many people think, teaching English here isn't a walk in the park- and to use another cliche; it ain't no picnic either!

I can expound upon many of the day to day troubles I encounter and you might even be captivated, or at the least be curious to read about life in such a mysterious place. What is even more likely though, is that you would probably be sore for my comments regarding my recent melancholy as a failing teacher in South Korea. Random complaining is easy to do, but the problem is that it doesn't solve anything. So instead, I am not going to complain to you. The reason for this is that I've lived here for a while, and the reason that i've stayed here as long as I have is that there are many interesting things about life here. So instead of babbling like an apathetic record store employee(i've been there,) I'm going to tell you the great things about Korea that I look forwrad to every day.

So stay tuned, because next week I am going to show you that there is always a treasure somewhere, and it's not always buried. For I am a very lucky person to be where I am. I am sure problems are everywhere and as I mentioned we all have challenges in life. It's true that I'm facing them head on , but I just don't want to bother you with it, though I do want to share some good things with you, because it will simply make me feel better. So therefore, read my blog next week-sorry for the shameless plug.